$1000 Gaming PC: Crossfire and RAID 0 for top-notch performance!

Mathieu Bourgie | July 29, 2010 | View Comments
Radeon 5770 Crossfire

This Build features two Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire. Note that they will look slightly different, this picture is to give you an idea of what to expect.

Upcoming Updates

Last week, I updated the $400 Gaming PC, the $500 Gaming PC and the $600 Gaming Computer. Earlier this week, I updated the $700 Gaming Computer as well as the $850 Gaming Computer.

Today I’m updating the $1000 Gaming PC and tomorrow I’ll be updating the $1250 Gaming Build.

Expect updates to the more expensive ($1500+) Gaming Builds starting in the second week of August, with updates to our Best Of type of articles next week.

Automatically receive our future articles for free via RSS or Email:

Did you know that you can get our future articles, such as the Gaming PC Guides, for free via RSS or Email? That way, you never have to check the site for updates again because you get the latest and greatest articles delivered automatically in your RSS reader or Email inbox around 7PM EST, every day that I publish an article.

If you’re not familiar with RSS technology, here an article that explains What is RSS?

If the fact that you’ll be receiving outstanding custom PC designs for free is not enough to convince you, here are 7 Reasons to get our posts via RSS or Email.

This version compared to the previous version of the $1000 Gaming Build:

  1. The Video card was upgraded from a Radeon HD 5850 1GB to two HIS Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire. With the price of the Radeon HD 5770 now down to $140 per card, for $280 you get the performance of a $380 Radeon HD 5870 for $100 less. Compared to the previous $300 Radeon HD 5850 in this build, this represents a nice performance upgrade at a slightly lower cost.
  2. The Motherboard was changed from a GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 LGA1156 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0 Crossfire 8x/8x to an ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 P55 Micro ATX. Why?
    • Well, first of all because the USB 3.0 and SATA 6.0Gb/s on the Gigabyte board only works with a single video card and this build will use two cards in Crossfire.
    • Then, you should know that the ASUS board features nothing short of five fan headers, have dedicated buttons on the back for a CMOS reset for example (very useful for overclocking), has an extensive power delivery circuit, capable of handling heavy overclocking.
    • Of course, it features Crossfire support, as well as SLI support.
    • Finally, all of this is packed in a Micro ATX board, allowing you to use it in a smaller case if you wish to.
  3. The Hard Drive was upgraded, performance and capacity wise, from a Western Digital 750GB Black Caviar to two Samsung F3 500GB in RAID 0 (Total Capacity: 1TB), simply because the Samsung model performs better to begin with, no to mention the major performance gain when you put two in RAID 0!
  4. The Power Supply was upgraded from an Antec 550W Modular to a Seasonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Modular. With two Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire, the power requirements of this build went up, however with this more efficient power supply, you won’t see much of a difference in your power bill, not to mention that it will be more quiet and reliable.
  5. The Case was downgraded from an Antec Nine Hundred Two to an Antec Three Hundred Illusion. Sure, the Nine Hundred Two might have a bigger fan on top, E-SATA on the front and a few more features that the Three Hundred Illusion doesn’t have, but in my opinion, they are hardly worth the extra $65 demanded for the Nine Hundred Two ($120) compared to the Three Hundred Illusion ($55). I personally prefer to use that $65 elsewhere to improve the performance when the Three Hundred Illusion does the job of “hosting” and cooling this build just fine. Besides, you can upgrade the case to the one of your choice if you want to.
  6. The Sound Card was upgraded from the Realtek ALC888 sound card integrated on the GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 motherboard to the SupremeFX X-Fi sound card integrated on the ASUS Maximus III GENE motherboard. No, this won’t bring much, if any performance boost, but the enhanced sound quality is a pro.
  7. Other than that, the build is unchanged and now costs $1002 instead of $1011, a $9 decrease.

Is this the right type of PC for me?

If you’re looking for a PC to play video games, you’re at the right place. If this is not what you’re looking for, check out our other Computer Systems instead.

$1000 Gaming computer hardware parts recommendations, short version:

Explanation:

  • In the left column, you have the component type, such as the Processor, Video Card, etc.
  • In the middle column, you have the specific brand, model and a quick look at specifications for that part, as well as a link to buy it.
  • In Bold, you’ll find my recommendations for the parts that you should buy in order to have the best overall performance while fitting the overall budget.
  • In Italic, you’ll find the best possible upgrades if you have money to spare. These are the parts that offer better features or more performance, while still being relatively affordable in regard to the overall budget. In simple terms, if you want a more powerful video card, pick it from the list of recommended upgrades that are in Italic.
  • In the right column, you’ll find the best price that I found after double-checking at various trustworthy online sellers such as Amazon.com, NewEgg.com, Buy.com and others.
  • If upgrades just don’t cut it, visit the Gaming PCs page, where you’ll find our other gaming computer custom build designs.
  • Note that all upgrades are compatible with the rest of the system, as well as other upgrades, meaning that you can choose one or many upgrades without a problem. Of course, please carefully read any note(s) that I may leave to clarify and avoid some possible issues.

Required components:

Components Make, Model and Specifications Price
CPU/Processor Intel Core i5-750 2.66GHz LGA1156 95W Quad-Core
Intel Core i5-760 2.8GHz LGA1156 95W Quad-Core
Intel Core i7-870 2.93GHz LGA1156 95W Quad-Core HT
Intel Core i7-875K 2.93GHz LGA1156 Quad-Core HT Unlocked
$195
$210
$290
$330
Motherboard ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 P55 Micro ATX
ASUS P7P55D PRO LGA 1156 P55
GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD4P LGA1156 P55 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0 ATX
ASUS Maximus III Formula LGA1156 P55 ATX w/ Sound Card
$150
$170
$185
$230
RAM G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 9
G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 7 1.35V
CORSAIR XMS 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 2000MHz 1.65V
G.SKILL 8GB (4 x 2GB) DDR3 1600MHz
$100
$105
$120
$200
Video Card Two HIS Radeon HD 5770 1GB in Crossfire
Two GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 460 1GB OC Edition in SLI
$280
$460
Hard Drive Two Samsung F3 500GB SATA II 3.0Gb/s in RAID 0 for 1TB
Two Samsung F3 1TB SATA II 3.0Gb/s in RAID 0 for 2TB
$104
$140
Optical Drive LITE-ON Black 24X SATA CD/DVD Burner
LITE-ON 4X Blu-ray Reader SATA
LG 10X Blu-ray Burner SATA
$20
$60
$110
Power Supply SeaSonic M12II 620W 80PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular
SeaSonic S12D 850W 80PLUS SILVER Certified
$90
$120
Case Antec Three Hundred Illusion
NZXT Apollo NP Orange
Thermaltake Soprano RS
LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58
RAIDMAX AZTEC ATX-619WO Orange
COOLER MASTER Storm Scout SGC-2000-KKN1-GP
LIAN LI Lancool PC-K56W
COOLER MASTER HAF 922
LIAN LI Lancool PC-K62
LIAN LI PC-7BYCF
Antec Nine Hundred
Antec Nine Hundred Two
$55
$70
$70
$50
$70
$80
$90
$90
$100
$90
$100
$120
Cooling Intel CPU Stock Cooler included with CPU
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus 120mm CPU Cooler
ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 Thermal Compound
CORSAIR All-in-One Water-Cooling CPU Cooler
Rosewill RFX-120 Adjustable 120mm Case Fan
Free
$25
$8
$75
$8
Sound 7.1 Surround SupremeFX X-Fi sound card: Integrated
Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE 7.1 24-bit PCI
Free
$35
Network Ethernet RJ-45 10/100/1000 Mbps: Integrated on the motherboard Free
Total price Not Including OS, Shipping nor handling. Within -/+ 5% of Budget $1002

Accessories:

Accessories Make, Model and Specifications Price
Headphone Rosewill RH-40C 3.5mm Circumaural
SONIC HP-259 3.5mm Circumaural
PLANTRONICS .Audio 355 3.5mm Circumaural
SENNHEISER PC31 Dual 3.5mm Supra-aural
KOSS SB45 3.5mm Circumaural
Logitech G330 3.5mm/ USB Circumaural
ABS AZ1 Circumaural USB
SENNHEISER PC151 3.5mm Binaural
$7
$8
$20
$28
$30
$43
$50
$50
Speakers Logitech X-140 5 watts 2.0
Creative Inspire T3130 15 Watts 2.1
Logitech X-540 70 watts 5.1
$27
$50
$89
Monitor ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080
Two ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080
Three ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080
$180
$360
$540

Computer Builds FAQs:

I often get questions such as:

  • Who are you to tell me which parts to choose?
  • Can you suggest me a step by step guide to build a computer?
  • Why should I build a PC instead of buying one in a store?
  • And many more…

You will find the answers to all of these questions and more in this article: FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer

Also, if this is your first build, here are 10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders to get you started.

About Gaming PCs:

Gaming Computers are all about playing video games. Every year, new video games that pushes the boundaries of visual effects are released and demand more and more power from your computer to run. Being so powerful to handle cutting-edge video games, they are also very good all-around computers, capable of handling photo/video edition, web development, High Definition content playback and much more.

This is why our Gaming Builds Designs focus both on current performance for today’s games, as well as being ready to upgrade, to be ready to handle future games. For Gaming Builds Designs, a big portion of the budget goes to the Video Card and the Processor to ensure high performance in video games, as well as a solid power supply with a case with good cooling abilities, to ensure reliability.

Upgrades will usually focus on the processor and video card for enhanced performance, as well as on the power supply and cooling, to enhance overclocking capabilities. You may choose to upgrade the hard drive for more capacity, or change the case to get one that matches your personal preferences, such as look, cooling, size, etc.

$1000 Gaming Computer Hardware parts recommendations, detailed version:

Motherboard:

ASUS Maximus III GENE

ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 P55 Micro ATX

This motherboard is filled with great features. On the back, it features eight USB 2.0 ports, FireWire, E-SATA, S/PDIF Out via Optical, one PS/2, Gigabit LAN and 7.1 Surround audio via the SupremeFX X-Fi sound card. Crossfire and SLI is supported, with two PCI-Express 2.0 16x slots running at 8x/8x (8x/8x offering similar performance to 16x/16x, even with the high-end Geforce GTX 480, see below). This motherboard supports/is compatible with everything in this system, including the two Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire of course.

Performance difference between 16x/16x vs 8x/8x PCI-Express slots:

Wait, what do I hear? You NEED 16x/16x PCI-Express slots or the performance will crumble? Let me tell you this: That’s rubbish. Here’s an excellent quote that resumes the situation:

“NVIDIA’s GeForce GTX 480 is a very fast graphics processor. To maintain its speeds, it would hypothetically require high system bandwidth, leading one to think that lesser PCI-Express configurations would cripple it.

The theory couldn’t be more wrong, as seen by the mere 2% performance loss going from x16 to x8 (which reduces bandwidth by 50%). To cite results from one of the latest and resource-heavy games in our bench, Collin McRae DiRT 2, that translates into something like 63.2 FPS vs. 62.1 FPS, at 2560 x 1600 pixels resolution – barely a difference. More information on it at techPowerUp.

As you can see, unless you use a dual-GPU card (GTX 295 or Radeon HD 5970), 8x/8x is just fine, unless losing 1.1FPS will kill you…

Ports:

Anyway, back to the motherboard: On the board itself, you have two PCI-Express 2.0 16X (Single at 16x, Crossfire or SLI 8x/8x, in Red), one PCI-Express 4X and one PCI slot, along with seven SATA 3.0Gb/s ports. Note that this motherboard does not feature an IDE port, which are getting rare on mainstream/high-end motherboards.

Best of all? This board is based on the Micro ATX form factor, allowing it to fit in smaller cases if you want to build a small LAN machine without sacrificing performance.

Note that it comes with nothing short of six SATA cables, so no need to buy any for the DVD Burner and the two hard drives.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. Reliable, great overclocking motherboard, Crossfire/SLI support are a few words that I can use to describe the ASUS P7P55D PRO LGA 1156 P55 It doesn’t have any particular outstanding feature, instead it’s a good all-around motherboard, capable of doing what you want, whether that’s overclocking, two video cards in SLI or Crossfire or just a normal stock reliable machine.
  2. Similar to my recommendation, the GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD4P LGA1156 P55 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0 ATX throws in SLI support, even more ports in the back, such as FireWire, includes Dual-LAN and keeps the USB 3.0/SATA 6.0Gb/s support, as long as you don’t use Crossfire or SLI that is.
  3. The ASUS Maximus III Formula LGA1156 P55 ATX w/ Sound Card is one mad motherboard. Optimized for overclocking, it includes a dedicated sound card and supports nothing short of ten SATA devices. Considered by many, including myself, as the best motherboard for overclocking on the LGA 1156 socket.

CPU:

Intel Core i5-750

Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz 8MB L3 LGA1156 95W Quad-Core

In the same price range, AMD offers the Phenom II X4 965BE. I went with the Core i5-750 for the following reasons:

  1. The Core i5-750 outperforms the X4 965 in three out of four gaming benchmarks on Anandtech, with an average of 92.9 FPS for the Core i5 750 and an average of 87.1 FPS for the X4 965.
  2. Unlike the AMD X4 965, you can upgrade the Core i5 750 to a faster CPU on the same socket without a problem.
  3. The Core i5 750 (2.66GHz) has a lot more overclocking potential than the nearly maxed-out Phenom II X4 965 (3.4GHz).

Recommended upgrades (Compared to the Intel Core i5-750 main recommendation):

  1. Intel Core i5-760 Lynnfield 2.8GHz 8MB L3 LGA1156 95W Quad-Core – For a mere $15 more, you can an additional 133MHz, along with an higher multiplier, if you want to overclock.
  2. Intel Core i7-870 Lynnfield 2.93GHz 8MB L3 LGA1156 95W Quad-Core w/ HT – Here you get 266MHz more, along with Hyper-Threading, allowing this CPU to handle up to 8 threads. While HT brings no performance advantage to gaming, it’s a big bonus if you do any audio/photo/video editing or work with highly demanding programs.
  3. Intel Core i7-875K 2.93GHz 8MB L3 LGA1156 95W Quad-Core w/ HT Unlocked – Same as the Core i7-860, except for one big advantage: The Core i7-875K comes with an unlocked multiplier, allowing you to easily overclock it without stressing your motherboard and RAM. Note that the i7-875K does not includes a CPU Cooler, you need to buy one.
  4. For additional options, check out our guide to The Best CPUs For Your Money. Make sure to double-check compatibility with sockets, chipsets and memory if you pick another CPU. You can also leave a comment to ask me ;)

Video Card:

HIS Radeon HD 5770

Two HIS Radeon HD 5770 1GB in Crossfire

Overtaking my previous recommendation for this build, the Radeon HD 5850, the two Radeon HD 5770 setup is now possible due to their lower price of $140 per card, meaning that for $280 you get the performance of a $380 Radeon HD 5870 for $100 less. Compared to the previous $300 Radeon HD 5850 in this build, this represents a nice performance upgrade at a slightly lower cost.

For more information on the performance that you can expect:
Take a look at the following benchmarks:
From LegitReviews, for a comparison to many cards:

  1. Batman: Arkham Asylum
  2. Call of Juarez: Bound in Blood
  3. Need For Speed: Shift
  4. Resident Evil 5
  5. Tom Clancy’s H.A.W.X.

From TweakTown, for a comparison to the previously recommended Radeon HD 5850:

  1. World in Conflict
  2. Crysis Warhead
  3. Far Cry 2
  4. S.T.A.L.K.E.R. – Clear Sky
  5. Left 4 Dead

With their new lower prices, you can expect this dual Radeon HD 5770 Crossfire setup to take the $280-$300 price point when I update The Best Video Cards For Your Money article next week.

This setup is capable of handling pretty much any game at a resolution of 1920 x 1080 with high visual quality, if not even 3840 x 1080 in most cases. (Two monitors side by side with Eyefinity.)

Finally, it is DirectX 11 compliant, HDCP Ready and will handle Blu-Ray and other 1080p content playback, with audio over HDMI as well.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. Two GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 460 1GB OC Edition in SLI – This makes for one heck of a powerful setup: Two GTX 460 in SLI will outperform a GTX 480, the fastest single-GPU video card on the market, without a problem, performing in the same class as the fastest video card on the planet, the dual-gpu Radeon HD 5970. This is what I’d get if you really want to future-proof and/or if you want three monitors side by side with Nvidia’s Vision Surround, similar to AMD’s Eyefinity technology.
  2. Other, more powerful options are available in our guide to The Best Video Cards For Your Money. Make sure to consider power requirements and the length of a video card if you decide to go with a different card. Also very important: A very powerful video card will be useless in a low-end Gaming PC, as you want to balance the components to avoid having your CPU bottleneck your video card for example.

RAM:

G.SKILL Ripjaws DDR3 1600

G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 9

4GB of RAM is pretty much mandatory to handle the latest video games along with Windows and background background such as your anti-virus, web browser, music/video player, etc.

Considering the price of RAM these days and the ever-expending memory use of games and programs, 4GB of high-speed DDR3 memory is a no-brainer.

I went with G.Skill for their high reliability and compatibility with the majority of motherboards. I chose these particular sticks due to their low price and regular 1.5V requirement for DDR3 1600MHz frequency.

Recommended upgrades

  1. If you want a kit that has lower latencies and needs only 1.35V to run at 1600MHz, take a look at the G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 7 1.35V memory kit.
  2. CORSAIR XMS 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 2000MHz 9-9-9-24 1.65V – If you intend to overclock, this kit of RAM will give you more headroom to breath, preventing your RAM from being the limiting factor in your overclocking and resulting in more performance from the higher RAM frequency. Of course, if you get an unlocked CPU, with which the overclocking can easily by done by raising the CPU multiplier, which doesn’t affect the RAM at all, then you can stick with DDR3 1600MHz. Then again, for only $20 more, this kit gives you the flexibility of raising the bus speed to overclock.
  3. G.SKILL 8GB (4 x 2GB) DDR3 1600MHz – Future-proof your system from ever increasing software and game memory usage by upgrading to 8GB. Note that if you intend to overclock, you’re better off sticking to two sticks of 2GB for the best overclocking results, as more sticks/GB puts additional stress on the CPU.

Hard Drive:

Samsung F3 500GB

Two Samsung F3 500GB SATA 3.0Gb/s in RAID 0, Total Capacity: 1TB

In this Tom’s Hardware hard drive article, the SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ (The 1TB version) finishes on top of all transfer rates benchmarks, even ahead of what used to be my recommendation for high-end builds, the Western Digital Caviar Black. Now, guess what happens if you take two of the 500GB version of this drive and put them in RAID 0 (Easily done via the BIOS)? You get a setup that’s nearly twice as fast compared to the F3 HD103SJ 1TB edition, for only $32 more, with also a 1TB capacity.

Considering that the hard drive is often the bottleneck in a system and that no ones likes waiting for their game to load, this is a simple and relatively inexpensive upgrade compared to a single drive, like the Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB featured in the previous version of this build.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. Two Samsung F3 1TB SATA II 3.0Gb/s in RAID 0, Total Capacity: 2TB – Same as above, 300+MB/s transfer rates, except that you get a 2TB storage capacity this time.
  2. Interested in SSDs (Solid State Drives), or want a different drive? I invite you to take a look to our guide to the Best Hard Drives & Best SSDs For Your Money.

Optical Drive:

LITE-ON CD/DVD Burner

LITE-ON Black 24X SATA CD/DVD Burner

This drive is able to read and burn CDs and DVDs. Silent, compatible with all major formats including DVD-RAM.

Also, seeing as DVD Burners are often go out of stock lately, here are a two alternatives that you can use to replace it. All are SATA based.

  1. LITE-ON Black 24X SATA Black CD/DVD Writer
  2. HP Black 24X SATA 24X CD/DVD Writer – Retail

Upgrades:

If you’d like to watch BluRay movies or TV shows, this LITE-ON 4X Blu-ray Reader SATA will do the job. However, note that it can only READ CDs, DVDs and Bluray disks, not burn any of them.

If you want the ability to burn disks as well, the LG 10X Blu-ray Burner SATA is what you want.

Regarding Blu-Ray playback:

As far as I know, you still require a specific software to playback Blu-Ray disks on a PC. Based on various reviews and feedback on various forums, PowerDVD 9 Ultra is the software that I recommend to you. It is fully compatible with Windows 7 and shouldn’t give you any problems.

Case:

Antec Three Hundred Illusion

Antec Three Hundred Illusion 3x 120mm + 1 x 140mm

For only $55, this is one great deal from Antec:

  • Cooling wise, this case includes three 120mm and one 140mm case fans, insuring proper cooling for your Gaming PC. I put money aside in the budget to add one Rosewill RFX-120 Adjustable 120mm Case Fan to the side panel in order to improve airflow to your video cards in Crossfire.

Features wise, you get:

  1. A solid steel case. No flimsy panel here.
  2. Support for up to six hard drives
  3. Dust filters.
  4. 2x USB, Audio out, MIC in at the top

Recommended upgrades:

Power Supply:

SeaSonic 620W

SeaSonic M12II 620W 80PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular

This power supply is capable of delivering up to 620W, not that should rely on this information only as I often point in posts such as Warning: 6 Surefire Ways of Blowing Up Your Computer Due to an Inadequate Power Supply, but more importantly 48A on the 12V line, the most important factor when it comes to choosing a power supply for a gaming computer.

Best of all, it is 80 PLUS Bronze certified, meaning that it’s always at least 82% efficient at 20% and 100% and 85% efficient at 50% load, resulting in less heat, more silence and a lower electricity bill for you, compared to a less efficient power supply.

Power Consumption:

According to the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator, it is estimated that this system will consume at load (peak usage):

  • 386W with the recommended Intel Core i5 750 95W (Or any CPU Upgrade), the two Radeon HD 5770, the hard drives in RAID 0 and rest of this build without upgrades.
  • 423W with an Intel Core i7 875K overclocked to 3600MHz 1.4V, two Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire and two hard drives in RAID
  • 519W with an Intel Core i7 875K overclocked to 3600MHz 1.4V, four sticks of RAM, two hard drives in RAID and two Geforce GTX 460 in SLI. This is the worse case scenario.

The power supply will have no problem handling the base recommended setup with or without overclocking. However, for the upgrade to the Geforce GTX 460 SLI setup AND indeed to overclock your video cards , upgrading the power supply is a must to ensure a properly working PC that is stable and that will last.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. SeaSonic S12D 850W 80PLUS SILVER Certified – Recommended to be future-proof, if you do consider upgrading to a SLI setup now or at one point, but also want to overclock to your heart’s desire, something that would bring power consumption to 600W, if not even 700W+, you’ll want to pick a solid power supply. On top of delivering up to 850W, this unit is certified 80PLUS Silver, resulting in less heat, more silence and a lower electricity bill for you, compared to a less efficient power supply.
  2. If you’re not sure and need help to pick the right power supply, set some time aside and read Warning: 6 Surefire Ways of Blowing Up Your Computer Due to an Inadequate Power Supply.

Cooling: Stock cooling

To save on costs, I recommend using the cooler included with the CPU. While there are better coolers, the one that is included is good enough to handle the cpu under normal operation. The case includes cooling fans as well to help you keep your system cool.

However, there are two reasons why you may choose to upgrade your cooling system:

  1. To keep your computer components cooler, which in return extend their lifespan and allows you to overclock to higher speed.
  2. To keep your system silent, as the stock cooling can get noisy at times, especially during prolonged gaming sessions.

Alternatives:

  1. CPU Cooler: If you decide to give overclocking and/or unlocking cores, I cannot stress enough the importance of a good cooler.The COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus 120mm CPU Cooler offers the best value regarding performance for the price.
  2. Thermal Compound: Use the ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 Thermal Compound either with the stock cooler or better, with the upgraded CPU cooler to lower your CPU temperatures further more. For $8, this is a wise investment.
  3. Case cooling: I put money aside in the budget to add one Rosewill RFX-120 Adjustable 120mm Case Fan to the side panel in order to improve airflow to your video cards in Crossfire. Of course, feel free to opt for another 120mm case fan if you prefer to.

Sound Card: SupremeFX X-Fi: Integrated on the motherboard

Integrated with the motherboard, this sound card will handle many different sound setups, including headphones, a microphone and more.

Note that the ASUS Maximus III Formula motherboard upgrade includes a dedicated sound card.

Recommended upgrade:

For $35, you can get the Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE 7.1 24-bit PCI, which will definitely provide a nice boost in audio quality compared to regular integrated sound. However, the SupremeFX X-Fi integrated on the recommended motherboard will do just fine, consider this card if the motherboard you pick has “regular” integrated sound.

Network: Ethernet RJ-45 10/100/1000 Mbps LAN: Integrated on the motherboard

Integrated with the motherboard, this network adapter will allow you to access your local network and Internet.

Accessories:

Headphones – With a Microphone:

Headphones, with a microphones, are a must for many games, especially First Person Shooters (FPS), where a lack of team communication can break a team. However, I do realize that we all have different tastes when it comes to headphones, as in which size is comfortable, which brand sounds the best, etc. This is why I found eight great pair of headphones, with prices ranging from $7 to $50, for you to choose from:

  1. Rosewill RH-40C 3.5mm Circumaural
  2. SONIC HP-259 3.5mm Circumaural
  3. PLANTRONICS .Audio 355 3.5mm Circumaural
  4. SENNHEISER PC31 Dual 3.5mm Supra-aural
  5. KOSS SB45 3.5mm Circumaural
  6. Logitech G330 3.5mm/ USB Circumaural
  7. ABS AZ1 Circumaural USB
  8. SENNHEISER PC151 3.5mm Binaural

Speakers:

If all you want is a pair of decent, inexpensive speakers, the Logitech X-140 5 watts 2.0 at $27, or the Creative Inspire T3130 15 Watts 2.1 for $50 will do a great job.

Looking for higher quality speakers, without breaking the bank still? The Logitech X-540 70 watts 5.1 make for an excellent and affordable 5.1 setup.

Display:

For a long time, you’ve been asking for recommendations for a good monitor to play on. I’m listening to you and I’ve decided to include at the very least, one recommendation of a good monitor for every Gaming PC.

My recommendations are based on the following criteria:

  • Price: I obviously won’t recommend a $1000 monitor if the budget for the PC is $1000.
  • Resolution: The resolution of the monitor directly impacts the performance within video games, as higher resolution are more demanding on the system, resulting in lower FPS. Picking the right resolution for a particular system is crucial to achieve good performance.
  • Response time: The lower the better, very important with video games.
  • Brightness and Contrast Ratio: The higher, the better.
  1. With its resolution of 1920 x 1080, the ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080 gets my main recommendation for the $1000 Gaming PC, as it is, without upgrades. This Build will have no problem offering outstanding performance in all video games on this monitor, including Crysis ;) It is also the best option to be able to play future video games (Think DirectX 11 games) without upgrading, or at least, not as soon.
  2. With this $1000 Gaming PC as it is, you can consider two ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080 side by side, for a resolution of 3840 x 1080 thanks to AMD’s Eyefinity technology and still play with the highest details in most games. If you want to play with two monitors but be future-proof, go with the dual Geforce GTX 460 in SLI upgrade.
  3. If you decide to upgrade to two Geforce GTX 460 in SLI, you get three ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080 side by side, for a resolution of 5760 x 1080 (or 3240 x 1920, depending on the orientation), thanks to Nvidia’s Surround Vision and still play with the highest details in most games.

Recommended operating systems:

The operating system cost, if there’s one, is not included in the total cost. The two reason for this are:

  1. The budget only considers hardware.
  2. You may be able re-use a previous license, go with an open-source OS such as Linux or , if you’re so inclined and are aware of what you’re doing, use torrents.

If you decide that you need a need OS, here are some recommendations:

Windows 7

Despite Linux gaining more and more support, Windows still is the platform of choice for compatibility at the moment. Considering that you’ll have 4GB of RAM or more, along with a dedicated video that also has memory (512MB or 1GB), you’ll need a 64-bit version, as 32-bit is limited to 4GB of memory for the entire system, which is not enough now, nor in the future if you decide to upgrade.

Windows 7 is by far better than Windows Vista, looks better, more functional, less annoying, consumes less resources and brings DirectX 11 to the table.

Three Available Versions:

  1. Windows 7 Home Premium: The basic edition, with all the looks, most of the functionality and DirectX 11.
  2. Windows 7 Professional: If you want the virtual XP mode, you’ll need at least the Professional edition. Also required if you want to backup to a network, using the built-in backup mode in Windows.
  3. Windows 7 Ultimate: To help protect data on your PC and portable storage devices against loss or theft with BitLocker and to work and switch between 35 languages.

OEM vs Retail:

The OEM version allows you to only install it once on a computer. You cannot transfer the license to another computer in the future and you do not receive support from Microsoft. It’s the same type of license you get when you get Windows on a desktop or laptop that you buy from Dell, HP and such. It’s less expensive, but gives less flexibility. Ideal if you intend on keeping your computer for many years.

The Retail version is the full version, which allows you to transfer the license to another computer in the future and you can call Microsoft if you need any form of support. Ideal if you intend on upgrading/changing your computer down the road.

Other than that, you get the same features on both, only the license differs. The price between the two differs obviously.

OEM Versions:

  1. Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit OEM – $100
  2. Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit OEM – $140
  3. Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit OEM – $175

Retail Versions:

  1. Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Retail – $180
  2. Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Retail – $258
  3. Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate Retail – $276

Linux

A lot of people these days boots more than one OS. Linux is a wonderful choice: powerful, cool, and cheap. Take your pick of distributions and have fun! For Fedora, Ubuntu, Debian, Slackware, and Mandrake, try Distrowatch.com, Cheapbytes.com, LinuxQuestions.org or one of the many others.

While Linux does not offer the wide compatibility of Windows with video games, gaming on Linux is still possible, through projects such as Wine, Cedega and Crossover. For more on the topic of Linux Gaming, I invite you to read this excellent article from AnandTech: Linux Gaming: Are we there yet?

What about Word processing, Excel and other Windows-based programs that you need? Linux being an open platform, there are many free alternatives that will answer your needs. For Word/Excel and such, try OpenOffice.

Cost: Free

Conclusion

What do you think of this updated version of the $1000 Gaming PC?

Let me know what you think by leaving a comment below.

Building this system?

Do you need a guide on how to build a computer or do you have some questions?

Consult our: FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer

Also, if this is your first build, here are 10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders to get you started.

Finally, if your newly built computer won’t start, I invite you to read Help me: Why won’t my newly assembled PC start or boot?

Don’t miss out on the new models/updates to the Gaming PCs!

Make sure not to miss the next Gaming PC Builds that will be published in the next days/weeks by getting them for free via RSS or E-mail. If the fact that you’ll be receiving outstanding custom Gaming PC designs for free is not enough to convince you, here are 7 Reasons to Get Our Posts Via RSS or E-Mail For Free!

Category: Gaming PC

About Mathieu Bourgie: Hi, nice to meet you! I’m a computer enthusiast with 10 years of experience in building, fixing and modifying computers. I opened up my first computer case over a decade ago, to see what it was made of, how it works and over time I’ve developed a great passion for computers, especially for all the hardware and bits that makes it happen. In the month of April 2008, I launched Hardware Revolution and ... Read more at my about page. .

  • Richard
    Hi Mathieu

    I would like to know if a seasonic 620W psu can support 2 gigabyte geforce gtx460 in sli setup? And if so how much of a head room will it leave? I have the Gigabyte GA-P55A-UD4 Motherboard, intel i5-760, 1TB hard drive and 4GB ram. Anyway how do you calculate how much power the hardwares consume and is it better to have some good head room for the psu?

    thank you
    Richard

  • Richard,

    Yes, the Seasonic 620W can handle two Geforce GTX 460 in SLI. With your setup, you'd have a power consumption of about 450W at full load with two GTX 460 in SLI, so you still have an healthy 170W head room. I usually recommend leaving 100W of head room, so you'd be just fine.

    To calculate an approximat power consumption, I use the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator, with a mix of data from AnandTech, Tom's Hardware and a few other sites that measure real-life power consumption, to get as close as I can to 100% accurate data.

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • koneru
    wow, this site is really amazing. I am totally confident now to have my first build...Given the recent news of sandybridge, I am a little confused that a new mother board is needed... I am trying to understand if I use the config you have given(which is exactly I am ordering) do we need to upgrade mobo too next year when sandy bridge comes out Also I am planning to make a change to use i7-860 as their prices are getting lower. Can you shed some light on what mobo
    (1156 vs 1366) these processors need and what sandy bridge needs. Thanks ahead for this awesome site...straight on the point :)
  • Koneru,

    Glad to hear that the site is helping you out, one of my main goals here on Hardware Revolution is to help people figure out the best parts and help them build their first PC.

    Regarding your questions:
    Yes, if you get this build (or any build) and if you want to upgrade to a SandyBridge CPU next year, you'll need a new motherboard, since Intel will be changing the socket and chipset.

    You can use this build and swap the CPU for a i7 860, that wouldn't be a problem, since the motherboard in this build uses a LGA1156 socket, which supports LGA1156 processors, such as the LGA1156 Core i5 750, 760 or Core i7 860 and 870. You should also keep an eye on the i7 870, since its price just went down recently.

    So basically, this build will support any LGA1156 CPU, like the LGA1156 Core i5 750, 760 or Core i7 860 and 870. If you want a LGA1366 CPU, such as the i7 920, 930 and others, you'd have to change the motherboard (Different socket, chipset and RAM configuration) and RAM (Triple Channel instead of Dual-Channel) as well.

    The $1500 Gaming PC Build is an example of a build with a LGA1366 socket, that supports LGA1366 CPUs.

    SandyBridge will require a completely new motherboard with a different socket, so no matter what you build today, if you want a Sandybridge CPU next year, you'll need a new motherboard, that's a fact.

    My question to you is: Do you really want to wait 5-6 months for SandyBridge, pay through the roof for new motherboards and a platform that will be untested/immature when it comes out or do you want to play now, on a PC that will run the latest games just fine?

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Will
    Mathieu,

    Thanks so much for posting this. It has been a huge help as I go about putting together my first custom gaming PC.

    I am using your build as a baseline, with a few changes. I have listed my deviations below; any thoughts would be much appreciated.

    CPU: Intel Core i5-760
    Motherboard: Asus P7P55D-E Pro Intel P55 Express Chipset DDR3 LGA 1156 ATX Mainboard
    Video Card: GeForce GTX 460 (In the other comments, you suggest going with that over the two 5770s.)
    Case: CoolerMaster 690 II
    Power Supply: Corsair CMPSU-650TX 80 Plus
    Cooling: CoolerMaster Hyper TX3 (along with the extra case fan)

    Thanks again for providing such an excellent resource,

    Will
  • Will,

    Glad to hear that this build helped you out and inspired you to build your first custom PC. I'm sure that you'll enjoy the experience and will be proud of a job well done in the end ;)

    I just took a look at your build, here are my thoughts on it:

    CPU is good, excellent choice on the motherboard for SLI support in the future, as well as full speed USB 3.0 and SATA 6.0Gb/s, even if you use SLI, unlike some motherboards.

    Seeing as you read previous comments, understand the differences between the two Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire and a single GTX 460, I'll say that you're good to go with the GTX 460 1GB. Make sure that you pick the 1GB edition though, the 768MB edition is quite slower. Gigabyte makes an excellent GTX 460 1GB with a great cooling system. However, if you intend to upgrade to SLI at one point, an EVGA model, with its closed cooler, would be better. EVGA also offers lifetime warranty on most models, just double-check to be sure to pick a GTX 460 with lifetime warranty if you go with EVGA.

    Regarding the CoolerMaster 690 II: There are two editions, the Basic and the Advanced.

    They are the same, except that the Advanced comes with three case fans, while the Basic comes with only one.

    If you go with the Basic, make sure to pick two other case fans as well. One in the front as intake as well as one on the top as exhaust. An extra fan, on the side for intake, wouldn't hurt either, as it would help your video card stay cooler. It's not necessary, but it would help keep your video card cooler and more silent since its cooler's fan won't have to spin as fast.

    Great power supply, at a good price right now. With that, you'll be able to upgrade to SLI without a problem in the future and/or overclock if you want.

    CPU Cooler: Not sure where you're ordering from, but I'd get the CPU Cooler from Amazon and I'd upgrade to the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus, with a second 120mm fan for a push/pull configuration. On Amazon, the TX3 is $20, with the 212 Plus starts at $22. Compared to respectively $30 and $50 on NewEgg, I'm sure that you understand why I suggest getting the CPU Cooler on Amazon.

    For a few bucks more, you'll get a CPU Cooler that performs much better and is also more silent.

    Hope this helps, let me know if you have other questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Milkcake
    I'm going to use the computer for gaming and movie. I'm going to connect to my TV. Does SLI setup allow to connect to TV using HDMI?
  • Milkcake,

    Yes, connecting a TV to your video cards via HDMI is as simple as plug & play and perhaps a one time setup with your drivers.

    Just note that the GTX 460 comes with a Mini-HDMI output, but includes a converter to HDMI, so just remember to use the adapter.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Richard
    Hi Mathieu,

    Problems solved, I actually plugged the RAM in slot 2 and 4 instead of 1 and 3, after I changed that, everything works beautifully. I did not change anything in the BIOS setup because I don't understand anything in there, except that the CPU temperature is 24-25 degrees, is it good or bad? I successfully installed windows 7 and all drivers, I also partitioned 2 drives of 200GB, but when I tried to create another one it wouldn't let me do it for some reason, the C drive still have 500+GB which is way too much and I wanted to create another drive, any solutions to that? Also if I want to upgrade to a SLI setup but my PSU don't have 4 pci-e 6 pin connectors, what can I do besides getting another PSU since the seasonic 620W is not a modular? Also are there any softwares that I can use to monitor my pc performance rather than going to the BIOS every time? When I start up the PC, the post screen appears so fast I couldn't see anything and goes into windows loading screen, is this because my computer is too fast :) or did I disabled something? Other then these little things, my pc is running perfectly, no problem at all at the moment, very proud with my first build, thank you so much for the help Mathieu.

    Richard
  • Richard,

    I'm sorry that I couldn't back to you sooner to help you out, but I'm glad to hear that you've figured out the problem on your own.

    A CPU temperature of 24-25 degrees is excellent. As long as you don't exceed 60C, you've got nothing to worry about.

    Not sure why you couldn't make any other partitions, but yes, there's an easy solution to that. Note that you'll need to be logged in as an Administrator to do this.

    Very important: Make a backup of any important file that you have on that PC. While the procedure shouldn't mess with your PC, making a mistake along the way might require you to format and or reinstall Windows.

    The procedure:

    1. Open the Start Menu
    2. Right-click on Computer. Select "Manage"
    3. A new window will open. Click on Disk Management, which is located under storage.
    4. Right-click the drive that you want to adjust. Select "Shrink" and the ammount of storage that you want to REMOVE from that drive. Make sure that it enough free space.
    5. That will create some "unallocated space" on your disk, lower in a window. Select it by clicking on it.
    6. Right-click it and select "New Simple Volume"
    7. Adjust the amount of space that you want it to use (maximum by default)
    8. Assign a letter to it.
    9. No need to format.

    Regarding the power supply and SLI: Your video Card should come with a converter: two 4-pins Molex plugs to PCI-Express 6-pin connector. Use two of these converters for the second card.

    "Also are there any softwares that I can use to monitor my pc performance rather than going to the BIOS every time?" What exactly would you like to monitor? For temperatures, Speedfan is a simple program that does the job.

    "When I start up the PC, the post screen appears so fast I couldn't see anything and goes into windows loading screen" You're one of the rare people who complains about his PC being too fast haha :P Seriously, when your computer is starting, even before anything shows up, you can press a key (Usually Delete, f8 or f12. Varies depending on the motherboard, check your manual.), which will let you in the BIOS.

    Glad to hear that your PC is working well, congratulations on a job well done ;)

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
  • Richard
    Hi Mathieu,

    I've encountered a big problem, after I turned the power on, the speaker connector keep beeping non stop, the pattern is a long consistent beeping, then a break, and then another long beeping sound and so on, so I quickly turned off the power supply afraid that the CPU or motherboard may get burned. I opened up the case and turned the power on to see what's going on inside the case, the back, top and front fan were spinning and seems to work fine, but the CPU fan is not spinning at all, it only moved a little bit then stopped completely, so I quickly turned off the power supply again. I have checked both the 8 pin and 24 pin plug on the motherboard, both fits nice and tight, I had also taken the fan to a local PC store and they tested it for me on their motherboard and it works perfectly. Also all the phase led (1,2,3,4,5,6) all the motherboards lights up when I turned on the power, I did not plug in a screen to see if anything comes up. What seems to be the problem? Is it my power supply doesn't have enough watts (I have the seasonic 620W bronze certified psu) which I highly doubt, are there something wrong with the motherboard or even worst the CPU? Does it have anything to do with the front pannel connectors? Thanks in advance.

    Richard
  • Richard
    Hi Mathieu
    My build is going good so far, however I've got a few questions before I feel comfortable enough to plug in the power cord:
    1. For the front panel connectors, the colors of each cable mentioned in the gigabyte manuel is completely different to the CM case connectors, also the layout of placement of the connectors in the manuel is different to the layout on the motherboard. Anyway there are lables on the motherboard and on the pins as well that tells you where to plug it, so I just followed that, but the color on the front panel connectors does not match the ones on the motherboard, why is that? It make sense for the colors to match isn't it?
    2. The case comes with a HD audio connector and an AC 97 connector in one cable, after carefully examining the motherboard, there seems to be only one place to plug it which is on the left side of the board, however the HD audio connector is extremely short and can only reach half the board, the slightly extended AC 97 connector can be barely put in. Are these two connectors only for the front panel mic and headphone on the case? Should I leave AC 97 plugged in or unplug it completely, which I guess means that I can only use the headphone and mic jack at the back of the case?
    3. The case comes with an eSata cable, where do I plug this or is it just an extra cable that I won't be using?
    4. The case comes with three fans, 1st fan had a 4P peripheral and another 4P size ( but 2 holes are empty, which is like a 2 pin connector?), 2nd fan had a 4P peripheral that can not be connected to the PSU, so I hooked it up to the 2 pin connector on the 1st fan, and plug the 1st fan to the PSU, third fan had a 4P peripheral but 2 holes are empty as well, however it can be connected to the PSU which I did, is this the correct way of plugging it?. None of the fans have any connections on the motherboard which I felt a bit strange, the only fan that hooked up to the motherboard is the extra 120 mm fan that I bought.
    5. What is sata3 anyway? I've got 2 sata3 in white color and 6 sata2 in blue color on the motherboard, at the moment I've hooked up the media drive to sata2 (0), and hard drive to sata2 (1), is this alright? Can I take advantage of sata3 connections?

    I've got everything plugged in and checked carefully at the moment, however Im afraid that if I plugged something in wrong, I may burn the motherboard. Well thanks in advance for your help.

    Richard
  • Richard,

    1. Don't worry about the color of the cables. Worry about the labels (such as pw_sw, reset, HDD LED and the like) matching, that's what matters.

    2. Yes, the fpanel sound is located right behind the sound jacks. Yes, those two connectors are only from the front panel mic and headphone on the case, you can still use the back jacks without a problem without them. You can try using the AC97 connector, as long as it doesn't put too much tension on the motherboard. Otherwise, you'll have to rely only on the back jacks. You can always use an 3.5mm jack extension from the back to make your life easier though.

    3. You can plug that cable in any free SATA port on your motherboard. That's for the front E-SATA port if you want it to work.

    4. Fans can either have power plugs to be used with the PSU or motherboard, so no need to worry about that. Do make sure that your CPU fan is connected to the motherboard though.

    Basically, for each fan, you have one plug that you need to plug a psu cable into and the other one (that looks like an extension of the first one) that can used to power other devices, including other fans.

    You just have to make sure that the plug closest to the fan (follow the cables from the fan) is connected to power, either from the psu or another fan. Fans are simple though, they work or they don't, so if didn't plug one properly, you'll realize it once you start your PC. It's not dangerous for your PC if it runs without case fans, for a few minutes, as long as the CPU Cooler fan is running, you're ok.

    5. SATA 3 or SATA 6.0Gbps is the latest evolution of the SATA standard and the fastest, compared to SATA 2 which supports 3.0Gbps. Basically, SATA III is starting to be and will be used for future, faster hard drives/SSDs. It's simply a future-proof connection, allowing you to use faster hard drives or Solid State Drives (SSD) in the future if you want to. It's also backward compatible with SATA 1 and SATA 2.

    For now though, for simplicity's sake, you can just plug your hard drive and optical drive to SATA II, like you did.

    Power supplies and motherboard are pretty fool-safe, they usually won't start if something is not plugged properly. Either nothing will start (no power) or it won't boot (PC will power up, but nothing will display on the screen.) If that happens, take a look at Help me: Why won’t my newly assembled PC start or boot? which will help you troubleshoot the problem.

    Alternatively, you can also contact me via e-mail at
    mathieu.bourgie at gmail.com
    and send high-resolution pictures of the inside of your PC from a few angles and I'll tell you if I see anything wrong.

    Hope that helps, keep it up, you almost got your PC running ;)

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
  • Richard
    Hi Mathieu, after some research I've came up with the following list of monitors that Im interested in.
    1. Acer G245HBMID 24in Widescreen LCD Monitor $229
    2. AOC 2434PW 23.6 Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor $219
    3. AOC 2436VWH 23.6 Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor $198
    4. BenQ E2420HD 24 Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor $259
    5. BenQ G2420HD 24 Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor $229
    6. LG W2353V 23inch Widescreen LCD Monitor $215
    7. Samsung P2350 23 Inch Widescreen LCD Monitor $229
    (all prices in Australian dollar)

    Im leaning towards the Acer, BenQ G2420HD, LG and samsung. Which one is the best bang for the buck and reliable? Do you have any suggestions of a 23-24 inch monitor under 300 dollar? thanks in advance
  • Richard,

    In that list, the LG W2353V would be my pick. It has a good response time, good contrast, VGA/DVI and HDMI connections (making it versatile) and relatively good power usage. Considering that it has the second lowest price (After the AOC, but I wouldn't consider the AOC really...), that would be the monitor with the best bang for the buck in my opinion.

    Regarding the Cooler Master Hyper 212 + orientation, both ways work. I believe the with the fan next to the RAM, it cools better, but in some configuration (depending on motherboard/RAM), it doesn't fit that way. In any case, both ways will do the job.

    Best of luck with your build, keep in mind the following two articles to help you out:

    FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer and
    10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders will help you get started.

    Finally, if your newly built computer won't start, I invite you to read Help me: Why won’t my newly assembled PC start or boot? which will help you troubleshoot the problem.

    Let me know how it goes.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Richard
    hi Mathieu, just ordered my parts today, I also added a Cooler master hyper 212 plus cpu fan, a 120mm side panel fan, 1TB hard drive instead of 2 500GB hard drive since I don't really need RAID, geforce gtx 460 GPU, seasonic 620W psu, lite-On 24*DVDRW black and finally a copy of windows 7 home premium retail pack to the list. All together it cost 1668 Australian dollar including shipping and insurance, consider everything is expansive over here, I guess its a decent price, anyway I am looking forward to my first PC build, If I encounter any problem I will be sure to bother you again :)
    Just wanna say thank you for all the help you've given me, really appreciated.

    btw I've noticed the pictures you have attached, in the second picture is that a cooler master hyper 212 cpu fan? I noticed that the fan is facing towards the graphic card, however in all the official cooler master cpu fan installation videos I saw on youtube, the CPU fan is facing towards the RAM, does it make any difference or both ways works?
  • Scott
    Hey Matthieu,

    First I'd like to say how much I appreciate all the work you've put into this site as well as the amount of interaction that people get with their questions.

    I was so impressed at how good this build looked, that I decided to build it for myself. Unfortunately, I'm stuck at the RMA phase since the Maximus III Gene mobo had a bad B1 RAM slot, and the one they sent to replace it had the exact same problem! =( Yes, extremely disappointing! I do share your love of Newegg, though. I just ordered the P7P55 pro, so hopefully that one will make up for the amount of fail on the previous 2 boards.

    I'm not a complete noob at building comps, but this one had a few 1sts for me: the dual GPU and RAID setup. I'm not sure where the blame for this lies, but the Radeon 5770's sit so close together on the Maximus III Gene, I doubt you can fit a piece of paper between them it's that tight! Installing them took some special preparation, since it's quite difficult to install the 2nd one, if you install the top one first, given the plastic anchor gets covered. What does that do to the airflow, with the 2nd card being so uncomfortably close?

    Love the power supply choice, love their cable/plug config, was quite flexible.

    The Antec case is pretty awesome for how cheap it is, the only thing that mystified me though, is that it has no speaker for the mobo panel connections. Also, I'm curious how you handle the individual speed controllers (L/M/H)? I have mine just stuck to the case with some tape, however unglamorous that is. I wish I could plug them into the mobo and have them be controlled electronically, or grouped with a knob, like the rosewill fan.

    I'd also be interested to see how you approach cable management, as I'm sure your taming of the "cord Medusa" is something legendary...

    Thanks again! Looking forward to your reply!
    Scott
  • Scott,

    First of all, thank you for the kind words about the website, much appreciated.

    Sorry to hear about the bad B1 memory slot on the Maximus III Gene. Guess you got a bad batch or something, that's really bad luck. The ASUS P7P55 Pro should be a fine replacement though.

    Regarding Crossfire and the cards being so close: I wouldn't worry too much about it, since the Radeon HD 5770 is a relatively low-power card (power consumption wise, compared to higher end Radeon HD 58xx or Nvidia cards that is), so they won't heat up that much to begin with.

    Not to mention video cards can handle pretty high temperatures, anything below 100C is fine, 100-110C is a zone that you wouldn't want to stay in (Won't damage the GPU instantly, but it will over long-term), while 110-115C+ will damage the GPU pretty quickly. As you can tell from the figures above, GPUs can withstand a lot more heat than CPUs.

    Besides, now that you'll have an ASUS P7P55 pro, your cards will have more room to breath. Also, the Antec 300 Illusion has fairly good airflow, so no need to worry in your case. Just keep an eye on your temperatures and keep in mind that you can adjust your video cards fan speed to find the right spot to keep your cards cool. Temperatures monitoring and fan speed control can be both be found in ATI Catalyst Control Center, which you can download alongside the latest Radeon video card drivers.

    Glad to hear that you liked the power supply choice, that's one thing that you don't see me cut corners in my builds, unlike some other PC builders/websites.

    Regarding the lack of speaker for mobo panel connections, that's an unfortunate trend with most cases lately, speakers are getting rare and are mostly found only in higher-end cases these days.

    Mind you, some motherboards now come with leds built in which display error codes, but that's the exception more than the norm. This little nifty kit also does the job at a low cost.

    I personally think that motherboards should all include speakers for trouble-shooting. They cost pennies to make and manufacturers (not to mention retailers) would probably save in the long run on the returns. But hey, I don't call the shots in the industry ;)

    As for the individual fan controllers, I usually just leave them on a specific setting, with the right balance of airflow and noise. I use high speed when I'm benchmarking or overclocking to the max, but for 24/7 usage, low and/or medium (depending on the fan) are what I use. I work in my quiet office, so high-speed, noisy fans are not an option that I would consider.

    Besides, low speed vs high speed only results in a few degrees of difference at load, usually not enough to make a difference except for extreme overclocking. Mind you, I would rather lose 50-100MHz than my sanity due to noisy fans hah.

    Another option is to get a 5.25" bay fan controller, with knobs and hook up all the fans to it. That way, you can easily control all the fans from one spot, without having to open your case up. Of course, that's if you want that much control.

    Personally, for any case/fans/controller, I just do some quick tests, see the differences in temperatures and noise at various and settle for what seems the best. Sure, I could test them at every possible setting and spend hours, but for a 1-2C difference, it's not worth my time, IMHO.

    I laughed what I read "I'm sure your taming of the "cord Medusa" is something legendary...". First time I hear someone call a power supply that way, and I like it =D

    Funnily enough, I use a Corsair TX-750 in my workstation and quite frankly, it's a pain to work with, for cable management that is. It's non-modular and the cables are extra long (A pro as well as a con, since I have more option to route them, but they are more problematic to hide). On the bright side, I have a LIAN LI Lancool PC-K62 case to work with, which is an absolute wonder when it comes to cable management, making my life rather easy.

    With any case, tie wraps are your best friend, especially to tuck cables together. Another easy trick is to twist your cables, in the form of a spiral. To avoid with SATA cables though. 90-degree angle SATA cable can help a lot. You can also hide a few cables along the side of your motherboard.

    With the Antec 300, you can hide a few not too thick wires behind the motherboard panel, some on the side of the hard drive/optical bays. While I unfortunately don't have the Antec 300 with me right now, here are two setups, with the 300, that I found on web and looked alright:
    This one and this one.

    I'd say to use google a bit, take a look at what people did with their own Antec 300 (or 900, similar design, just bigger) and I'm sure that you'll find some inspiration. Or a few ideas for possible mods ;)

    I'll make sure to put on my to-do list a How To: Tame the 'cord Medusa' ;) It would be a useful tutorial for a lot of people I imagine.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Richard
    hi Mathieu, should I get 2 HIS radeon 5770 in crossfire or a single geforce GTX 460? which of the two options perform better? A single GTX 460 is cheaper and I can always add another one later to increase performance. Also this card below:

    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_687&products_id=14938

    is already overclocked, does that mean it is not brand new and the warranty is voided? The Gigabyte GA-P55A-UD4 motherboard can support SLI but is it compatible with overclocked GPU? also does the seasonic 620W powersupply be able to support it if I decide to use a single GTX 460 in my current setup?

    thanks in advance
  • Richard,

    I'd recommend going with the single GTX 460 1GB, for a few reasons:
    - A Geforce GTX 460 1GB is powerful enough to handle pretty much any game maxed out at 1920 x 1080 (1080p Full HD) at the moment.
    - While two Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire are faster overall than a single GTX 460 1GB, they don't perform well in some games (Crossfire scaling issues) and Crossfire isn't supported in all cards. Basically, when facing the choice between two cards and one card, you preferably want to go with a single card, to avoid issues with Crossfire or SLI scaling, lack of support in some games and the like. Not saying that Crossfire or SLI is bad, just that a single card is always preferable to two cards. It's a more simple solution.
    - Two Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire would be noisier and consume more power than a single GTX 460.
    - When the need comes, you still have the option to add a second GTX 460 in SLI to upgrade your performance.

    The card that you linked to is what is called "factory overclocked", meaning that the manufacturer tested and shipped the card at overclocked speed. No need to worry, the card is brand new and under full warranty. It's simply something that some manufacturers do to distinguish themselves from other brands.

    You don't need anything special to support an overclocked card, so yes, the Gigabyte GA-P55A-UD4 is indeed compatible with the overclocked GPU and will have no problem running two of them in SLI.

    The Seasonic 620W PSU will have no problem at all running one GTX 460 in your current setup. As a matter of a fact, it could handle two of them in SLI.

    Hope that helps.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Hi Mathieu,
    I am a first time PC builder and noobie when it comes to computer specs technology. I like your rig here and the reasoning for the various components but was wondering how "future-proofed" the system is. If I'm going to go to the trouble of building the PC myself I want one that I can open up in a couple of years and swap a couple of components and be off and running again.

    I intend to use this PC only for gaming purposes.

    More specifically:
    1) Will the Asus motherboard you selected support triple channel memory? Is this where memory is headed?

    2) Are future GPU's likely to use two x16 PCI slots for Crossfire (you mentioned the x8 weren't a big deal at the moment but...)

    3) Do you have a Wireless network card that you can recommend? I don't play heavily intensive online games and like the convenience of wireless.

    Thanks very much!
  • Big Will Dart,

    1- No, the motherboard is based on the LGA1156 socket/P55 chipset, which supports only LGA1156 Intel CPUs and dual-channel memory. For Triple-Channel, you'll want a LGA1366 motherboard with an Intel LGA1366 CPU.

    Dual-Channel offers enough bandwidth for now, as far as gaming is concerned. Of course, triple-channel is more future-proof. I can't tell for sure where memory is headed, I heard rumors of Intel going to quad(4)-channel in the future.

    2- Next generation ATI/AMD and Nvidia products will most definitely need 16x slots, either for single or dual cards.

    3- This card will do the job.

    Seeing as you want a more future-proof platform that will last you, with 16x slots and such, I recommend that you stick around and wait for the $1500 Gaming PC update (next week), which will feature a more future LGA1366 platform. You can opt in to receive updates for free, via RSS or E-mail if you want.

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have more questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Great stuff, Thanks Mathieu.

    Signed up for the email updates so I'll wait and check out your $1500 build.

    What is your opinion of the i7 930 and 860? I read some reviewers were saying that the 860 is the 930's replacement and they are about the same price??
  • Big Will Dart,

    The LGA 1156 Core i7 860 and LGA 1366 Core i7 930 perform on par and the i7 860 isn't meant to replace the i7 930, since each CPU is meant for a different socket/platform (LGA 1156 socket /P55 chipset or LGA 1366 socket/X58 chipset) that aren't compatible with each other.

    So in short, both CPUs perform alike, your decision needs to be based on the platform, both of which I explained in details in my reply to Bob's comment above.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Bob
    Ok Mathieu, I want to thank you in advance for your time here. I had time to put an additional three systems on paper together in addition on the one you looked at yesterday which will be last here. I would like your insight as to what is good, what is bad, PRO's and CON's and in your mind what you feel is the best system for the price. I am trying to future proof each build and also to creat a great gaming rig in the process. I will additionally use this for Video and Movie Editing ETC along with the usual PC related work, but most of my apps will be store on an external HD to keep bloat ware down to a minimum. Ok here we go and again thank you for your time:

    Build 1

    Rosewill Game Case: $69.99 New Egg
    Core i7 Intel 930 Processor: $199.99 Pickup only at Micro Center
    ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 Intel P55 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
    $139.99 after $20 mail in rebate free shipping New Egg
    G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL $97.99 New Egg
    HIS H577FK1GD Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card w/ Eyefinity
    $149.99 after $10 mail in rebate New Egg plus $6.98 shipping X2
    $299.98 New Egg
    Samsung 500 GB SATA II Hard Drive HD502HJ X2 $52.97 free shipping $104 Amazon
    LITE-ON Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA CD/DVD Burner - Bulk – OEM $19.99 New Egg
    SeaSonic M12II 620 Bronze 620W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
    $89.99 New Egg
    Cooler Master RR-B10-212P-G1 Hyper 212 Plus 775/1156/1366/AMD/AM2/AM3 Universal Direct Contact Heat-Pipe 120mm Fan CPU Cooler $29.99 free shipping Amazon
    Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - OEM $99.99 free shipping new Egg
    Total: $1151.90
    Build 2
    LITE-ON CD/DVD Burner - Bulk Black SATA Model iHAS124-04 - OEM $19.99
    Rosewill CRUISER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case with Side Panel Window and Four Fans
    Item #: N82E16811147145 $69.99
    GIGABYTE GV-N460OC-1GI GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card ($229.99 each) $459.98
    SeaSonic S12D 850 Silver 850W ATX12V V2.3/EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Active PFC Power Supply $119.99
    G.SKILL ECO Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO $104.99
    ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 Intel P55 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
    $20.00 Mail-in Rebate Card13-131-599 $159.99 Minus $20 Mail in rebate: $139.99
    Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders – OEM $99.99
    Total: $1014.92
    All above at New Egg:
    Cooler Master RR-B10-212P-G1 Hyper 212 Plus 775/1156/1366/AMD/AM2/AM3 Universal Direct Contact Heat-Pipe 120mm Fan CPU Cooler Amazon $29.99
    Plus i7 930 Core $199.99
    Two Samsung F3 500GB SATA II 3.0Gb/s in RAID 0 for 1TB $104


    Total: $1348.90

    Build 3
    LITE-ON CD/DVD Burner - Bulk Black SATA Model iHAS124-04 - OEM $19.99
    New Egg
    Rosewill CRUISER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case with Side Panel Window and Four Fans New Egg $69.99
    GIGABYTE GV-N460OC-1GI GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card New Egg
    ($229.99 each) $459.98
    SeaSonic S12D 850 Silver 850W ATX12V V2.3/EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Active PFC Power Supply $119.99
    New Egg
    G.SKILL ECO Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO $104.99
    New Egg
    ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 Intel P55 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
    Item #: N82E16813131599 $159.99
    New Egg
    Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - OEM
    $99.99
    New Egg
    i7 930 core $199.99
    Micro Enter
    2 Samsung 500 GB SATA II Hard Drive HD502HJ $52 X 2 $104
    Cooler Master RR-B10-212P-G1 Hyper 212 Plus 775/1156/1366/AMD/AM2/AM3 Universal Direct Contact Heat-Pipe 120mm Fan CPU Cooler Amazon $29.99
    Subtotal: $1,466.91

    And finally original build you reviewed yesterday:

    Rosewill Game Case: $69.99
    New Egg
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item...

    Core i5 Intel 760 Processor: $189.90 Pickup only at Micro Center
    OR
    Core i7 Intel 860 Processor: $219.99 Pickup only at Micro

    ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 Intel P55 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard $139.99

    G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL $97.99
    New Egg

    HIS H577FK1GD Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card w/ Eyefinity
    $149.99 after $10 mail in rebate New Egg plus $6.98 shipping X2 $299.98

    Samsung 500 GB SATA II Hard Drive HD502HJ X2 $52 free shipping $104
    Amazon

    LITE-ON Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA CD/DVD Burner - Bulk – OEM $19.99
    New Egg

    SeaSonic M12II 620 Bronze 620W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply $89.99
    New Egg

    Cooler Master RR-B10-212P-G1 Hyper 212 Plus 775/1156/1366/AMD/AM2/AM3 Universal Direct Contact Heat-Pipe 120mm Fan CPU Cooler $29.99

    Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - OEM $99.99
    New Egg




    Total $951.

    Plus processor
    Core i5 760 $179.99 $1130.99
    Core i7 860 $219.99 $1170.99
    Core i7-930 $199.99 $1151.90

    I would imagine I need to add a higher power supply for this build as well correct?
  • Bob,

    As I pointed out in my comment to your previous question, the Core i7 930 is based on the LGA1366 socket and will only work with a motherboard equipped with the LGA1366 socket and the X58 chipset. Meaning that if you stick with this build, you want to go with the i5 750 or i7 860. Considering that you'll be doing Video Editing, I would go with the i7 860, since it features Hyper-Threading, which will greatly improve performance for video editing.

    Seeing as you may be considering the LGA1366/X58 platform instead, to be future-proof (See my comment above on that), I won't comment on every build, but rather comment on them overall, give you my opinion and give you some pointers.

    1- I see that you hesitate between two Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire and a single Geforce GTX 460 1GB. I'd recommend going with the single GTX 460 1GB, for a few reasons:
    - A Geforce GTX 460 1GB is powerful enough to handle pretty much any game maxed out at 1920 x 1080 (1080p Full HD) at the moment.
    - While two Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire are faster overall than a single GTX 460 1GB, they don't perform well in some games (Crossfire scaling issues) and Crossfire isn't supported in all cards. Basically, when facing the choice between two cards and one card, you preferably want to go with a single card, to avoid issues with Crossfire or SLI scaling, lack of support in some games and the like. Not saying that Crossfire or SLI is bad, just that a single card is always preferable to two cards. It's a more simple solution.
    - Two Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire would be noisier and consume more power than a single GTX 460.
    - When the need comes, you still have the option to add a second GTX 460 in SLI to upgrade your performance.
    - If you go with the LGA1366/X58 platform, you'll be able to further upgrade your video cards to newer generations of video cards, for the next few years to come, making your Gaming PC last many years.
    - Since the single GTX 460 is less expensive, you can use the cash that you save to go the LGA1366/X58/future-proof way.

    - Good call on the CPU Cooler, as it's an easy way to keep your CPU temperatures in check, as well as lower noise compared to the stock cooler. To further improve temperatures, consider MX-2 thermal paste, which goes for less than $10, offers top-notch performance and is non-conductive. Are you considering overclocking by the way?

    Power supply: You can go with the Seasonic S12II 620W instead, as it's $20 off at the moment.

    RAM: If you go with the LGA1366/X58 platform, you'll want to switch to triple-channel RAM instead.

    In any case, let me know if future-proofing your PC is something that you'd want (Future-proofing it more than with this current LGA1156/P55 platform that is, which can still be upgraded to the GTX 460 in SLI in the future, but not more than that, unlike the LGA1366/X58 platform, where you can upgrade to future generations of video cards.)

    If you do, I'll help you figure out the right motherboard/RAM and the rest of the system. Also keep in mind that I'll be updating the $1500 Gaming PC next week, where I'll be featuring a future-proof build based on said LGA1366/X58 platform. Might be easier for you to start from there, instead of upgrading all over the place and perhaps getting confused.

    Hope this helps, let me know if you have more questions or if you have more builds that you want me to check. Although, try to figure out if you want LGA1156/P55 (Good for now and SLI two GTX 460, lower cost) or LGA1366/X58 (Good for GTX 460 in SLI, as well as to upgrade to future generations of video cards, higher cost) first, it will be more simple afterward. Of course, if you are having trouble figure that part out and/or have questions regarding the platforms, let me know.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Bob
    Mathieu can you give me your insight here. Here is what I have come up with, I added a Rosewill Case because the one you suggessted is now the same price, your thoughts? Also what do you know about the Killer 2100 Latency Card that I included in the price? Your adivce is appreciated. Here is my build so far before ordering:

    Rosewill Game Case: $69.99 plus $9.99 New Egg
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147145&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=10440897&PID=3067296&SID=

    Core i5 Intel 760 Processor: $189.90 Pickup only at Micro Center
    OR
    Core i7 Intel 860 Processor: $219.99 Pickup only at Micro

    ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 Intel P55 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
    $139.99 after $20 mail in rebate free shipping New Egg

    G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL $97.99 New Egg

    HIS H577FK1GD Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card w/ Eyefinity
    $149.99 after $10 mail in rebate New Egg plus $6.98 shipping X2
    $299.98

    Samsung 500 GB SATA II Hard Drive HD502HJ X2 $52.97 free shipping $104.96 Amazon

    LITE-ON Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA CD/DVD Burner - Bulk – OEM $19.99 free shipping New Egg

    SeaSonic M12II 620 Bronze 620W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
    $89.99 plus $10.16 shipping New Egg

    Cooler Master RR-B10-212P-G1 Hyper 212 Plus 775/1156/1366/AMD/AM2/AM3 Universal Direct Contact Heat-Pipe 120mm Fan CPU Cooler $29.99 free shipping

    Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - OEM $99.99 free shipping new Egg

    VisionTek Killer 2100 Network Gaming Card $99.99 Amazon or $99.99 Tiger Direct

    Total

    $952.87
    plus processor
    i5 760, $1142.77 with Killer 2100 $1242.76
    i7 860, $1172.86 with Killer 2100 $1272.85

    Not including tax, or shipping.
  • Bob,

    The Rosewill Cruiser is a great choice for the case, way to go. The rest of the build looks good as well.

    However, I highly recommend on skipping the Killer 2100 Network card. A standard integrated LAN found on the motherboard will perfectly do the job for 99.9% of cases.

    While the Killer 2100 network card will very slightly improve pings and performance in a few rare cases, if you have $100 to spare, you're way better off spending it on better video cards for example, where you'll see much more of a performance improvement for your money.

    Not saying that the Killer 2100 is bad. Just saying that it doesn't offer enough of a performance improvement for $100 to be worth it in this build. In a $2000-$2500 Gaming PC? Maybe.

    Regarding the processor:
    The i5 760 and i7 860 are nearly identical, with the same frequency. The main difference is the presence of Hyper-Threading on the i7 860, which will make no difference in gaming performance, but will greatly improve performance with video converting, 3D rendering and other highly demanding tasks. It's also more future-proof than the i5 760.

    Is it worth the extra $30? If you do anything that is highly demanding, other than gaming that is, that you know can benefit from additional cores/threads or just want to be a bit more future-proof, then yes. If you only want to play video games, browse the web, listen to music/video and the like, the i5 760 will do the job just fine.

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have more questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu

  • Bob
    I apologize for all of the questions, here is but one more with another one I will add based on another build of yours. So this morning I found a great deal on the i7 930 for 199.99 versus the i7 860. Will the i7 be compatiable for the motherboard and the rest of this build? For that price I do not see how I could go wrong. Also what would you recommend as far as Video cards with the extra 100 I wont be spending on the Killer 2100?

    Thanks again.

    Bob
  • Bob,

    No worries about the questions, as long as you don't mind giving me up to 24-48 hours to answer them, it will be my pleasure to assist you all the way. I've been there too, building my first PC many many years ago and I wish this website was around back then LOL. Ask all the questions that you want, no problem at all.

    Alright, now you have to understand this: There are two class of Core i7 CPUs:

    1- The first one is based on the LGA1156 socket and is compatible with motherboards featuring the LGA1156 socket, dual-channel memory (Requiring memory in pair(s) of two sticks) and the P55 chipset. This is considered the "mainstream" platform.

    They are commonly referred by their codename, Lynnfield, and models include the i7-860, i7-870 and i7-875K. These are compatible with this build.

    Those CPUs and the platform is more affordable, but has two limitations:
    - The maximum bandwidth for two PCI-Express slots (Used by Video Card(s) is 8x/8x. While this isn't a problem yet with current video cards, it will become a bottleneck if you would like to upgrade to a much more powerful video card in the future.
    - The RAM runs on dual-channel (per set of 2 sticks, so two or four sticks). Compared to Triple-Channel featured on the other Core i7 platform, this gives you less bandwidth. While this does not affect performance in a perceptible way, some argues that it will become a limiting factor in the future.

    2- The second type of Core i7 is based on the LGA1366 socket and is compatible with motherboards featuring the LGA1366 socket, Triple-Channel RAM (set(s) of three sticks of RAM) and the X58 chipset. This is considered the high-end platform.

    Core i7 of this type are also commonly referred by their codename, Bloomfield, and models includes the i7-930, i7-950, i7-970 and i7-980X. These are NOT compatible with this build, as they require a different motherboard and memory set(s).

    The LGA1366 platform feature full bandwidth on PCI-Express slots (16x,16x), making it more future-proof, as you would be more easily able to upgrade the video cards without having to upgrade the motherboard. However, the LGA1366 platform is also more expensive to begin with, which is why it won't be featured in Gaming Builds until the budget reaches $1500 and more.

    For most people, the LGA1156 platform offers plenty enough performance now and in the close future, without costing too much. More demanding users prefer the LGA1366 platforms, since you have access to the 6 core CPUs (LGA1366 i7-970 and i7-980X), full PCI-Express slots bandwidth for future video games in SLI or Crossfire and triple-channel RAM. Of course, the majority of these "demanding users" also mostly don't care about the cost.

    So, to answer your question, if it wasn't clear already: The Core i7 930 is NOT compatible with this build.

    The extra $100? How about a CPU Cooler, to keep your CPU cool, without too much noise and leaving the door open for overclocking and increased performance? Really, it's up to you, nothing for $100 will give you a huge performance boost at this point. You could get more RAM to be more future-proof, larger hard drives for more capacity, a better case, spend the money on a controller, it's up to you.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Jarlean
    Hey Mathieu. Thanks a ton for this guide. It has really helped me. I have some questions for you if you do not mind. The prices that you listed above for the video card and case have already changed. Do you have any alternative recommendation or would you stick with the same parts given the increase in price?
  • Jarlean,

    Prices keep changing quickly with PC parts, that's a fact that I can't change. I'm working on a system to update parts and price more quickly, but until that happens, I'll "manually" help people out.

    For the Video Card, you can go with two of this model instead:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102873

    For the case, while it's no longer "jump on it, buy as soon as possible" kind of deal it was before at $55, at $70 it's still a good deal. However, there are a lot of other good cases in the same price range to consider, such as the Cooler Master Scout or Cooler Master HAF 922, to name a few. For more choices of great cases, take a look at the latest edition of The Best Case for Your Money.

    All you need to worry about compatibility wise is the motherboard form factor (Micro ATX, ATX and the like) and enough cooling (Three or more 120mm+ fans preferably). While the article contains details on what to look for in a case, you can always double-check with me if you're not sure a case will work with this build.

    Hope that helps.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Bob
    So I have a quick question for you Mathieu,

    I am considering the Core i7 860 Processor Boxed instead of the 870. Is that a wise choice? There is a considerable price point differerence for me here as the 860 is $219 and the $249.99.

    Thank you for your reply in advance and great advice all the way around. Many thanks!
  • Bob,

    I recommended the 870 over the 860 since they both had the same price on NewEgg.

    However, if you can get the 860 for less than the 870, you might as well save some money, since you won't see any noticeable difference between the the 860 and 870.

    Hope that helps.

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
  • Richard
    Hi Mathieu,
    Thank you for the recommendations, I have a few questions: regarding the hard drive, does the 2 Samsung Spinpoint F3 500GB HD502HJ in RAID offer any advantage over the F3 1TB hard drive since both offer the same memory capacity but the 1TB hard drive is $29 cheaper than 2 500GB. Also, for the power supply do you think 750W will do the trick for my setup or is it an overkill? Should I purchase additional cooling fan for cooling the system? If yes what is the best cooling fan to go with the cooler master scout mid tower?
    thanks in advance.
  • Richard,

    Two Samsung F3 500GB in RAID 0 basically means that the two hard drives work together to increase performance by nearly two-fold compared to a single hard drive. So yes, two Samsung F3 in RAID 0 (RAID 0 needs to be configured via the BIOS before installing Windows, refer to the motherboard manual for the exact steps) will offer quite a performance increase compared to a single 1TB Samsung F3 drive. Basically, Windows, programs and games will load faster, among other things that rely on your hard drive(s).

    Short of buying an expensive SSD(Solid State Drive), two drives in RAID 0 will nonetheless give a noticeable boost compared to a single hard drive without costing you much more.

    Regarding the power supply/cooling: What's your current list of components? I see that your case changed, so I rather double-check to see if anything else changed to avoid giving you a bad recommendation.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Richard
    Hi Mathieu, here is my current configurations:
    CPU: intel i5-760
    Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-P55A-UD4 Motherboard
    GPU: 2 HIS Radeon HD 5770 in crossfire
    RAM: G.Skill Ripjaw 2*2GB
    hard drive: 2 samsung spinpoint 500gb in Raid
    case: cooler master storm scout mid tower
  • Richard,

    For the power supply, 750W is actually overkill.

    The 620W Seasonic PSU recommended in this post would be an excellent choice for you, as it's not overkill but has enough overhead not to worry about it lasting many years, it's a reliable PSU from a reputable brand (Seasonic makes many high-quality PSUs for brands such as Antec and Corsair), it's modular, so you only use the cables that you need, for a cleaner build and finally, it's 80PLUS Bronze certified, meaning that it's highly efficient, so it produces less heat, is more silent and will help cut your overall PC power consumption.

    Best of all? It's currently well

    Cooling wise: You'll definitely want to add at least one 120mm case fan on the side. Two 120mm case fans on the side isn't necessary, but will help cool down your video cards and CPU and keep your temperatures in check.

    Help that helps.

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
  • Richard
    hi Mathieu,
    Thank you for the suggestions, before I place my order, I have a quick question: I got a free Samsung 22'' Series 4 HD LCD TV (LA22B450) from a promotion and is wondering If it is good to use as a PC monitor. I've heard the LCD TV is ok for watching movies and playing games but not so much for typing and reading text on the net, the real problem for me is that I heard it also cause more damage to the eye? is this true? the resolution for this TV is 1366*768, if the video card is more than capable of handling this resolution, will the maximum resolution be restricted to the TV's resolution? There are three ways to connect the LCD TV to PC include VGA,DVI and HDMI, what are the differences between these types of connections and which connection offer the best resolution? Please give me some suggestions if you had previously experienced using a LCD TV as a PC monitor. Im trying to keep the TV since it saves me the trouble of selling it and buying a PC monitor but if it performs really badly when compare to a traditional PC LCD monitor then I will need to let it go.
    thanks in advance
  • Richard,

    What you heard about using a LCD TV as a PC monitor is pretty much true; It's good for TV and games, but usually poor for reading/typing text.

    Regarding damage to the eyes: You'll want to keep a relatively safe distance from any large monitor or TV. Whether it's a TV or Monitor, this is true to both. It's also important to have your monitor adjusted to the right height, to avoid back/neck pain, eye strain and of course, you'll want to take a 5 minutes break every hour, to move and stretch a bit.

    On LCDs (TV and Monitors), the maximum resolution is always limited by the display. So on that TV, you're limited to 1366 x 768 (Also known as 720p)

    DVI or HDMI is the best way to connect the TV to the PC, since they are digital, unlike VGA which is analogue. Basically, digital ensure optimal display quality.

    My recommendation in the end? Go through the trouble of selling the TV and buying a good monitor.

    The monitor will have a much higher resolution (1920 x 1080, 1080p Full HD), allowing for a much better experience with video games, thanks to seeing more at once (Higher resolution = More pixels = More real screen estate = More information at once), higher visual graphic quality and more.

    Sure, that TV probably wouldn't be half-bad as a PC monitor, but really, why invest close, if not more than a grand on your Gaming PC, only to limit your experience with a sub-optimal TV as a monitor?

    That's be like watching a Blu-Ray movie on an old, standard definition, TV. Not exactly the ideal experience.

    Besides, your eyes will thank you if you do a lot of reading/writing on your PC.

    I made the move this year from a 12" 1280 x 1024 resolution laptop screen to my 23" 1920 x 1080 LCD monitor. Trust me when I say this: While the increased physical size is what impress most people, I and you'll enjoy having the higher resolution, both in video games and everyday tasks.

    Hope this clears it up for you.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Richard
    Hi Mathieu
    May I ask which LCD monitor did you get this year? I'm thinking of getting a 23 or 24 inch between the $200-$300, after some research and seeing how many LCD monitors there are Im really lost to which one to buy at the moment. any suggestions would be much appreciated.

    thanks in advance
    Richard
  • Ryan
    Love you site.

    I5-760 2.8GHz
    Asus P7P55D Pro LGA
    Gskills Ripjaw series 8gb
    GTX460
    Antec 300 Illusion
    2x samsung 500gb Spinpoints
    seasonic 512 D 850w Silver
    Win7 64bit

    Just have a few questions as I think this is the build I want.

    How much performance loss would I be suffering only using one of the GTX-460 cards?

    As the ram is cheep would 8GB do anything extra for gaming as I am quite unfamilier with 64 bit OS the more I know the better.

    -Ryan
  • Ryan,

    How performance would you lose compare to what? Using two? Depends on your monitor resolution and the games that you play. You can google "Geforce GTX 460 SLI review" to get an idea, as most reviews compare a single vs two Geforce GTX 460 SLI.

    At this point in time, 4GB is all you need for Gaming and with a 64-bit OS. Most games still don't use over 2GB. Future games might, but then again, you could simply add more RAM in the future. You could also add more RAM now to be future-proof. It depends on your budget too of course.

    To resume, no, at this point in time, 8GB of RAM is overkill for video games.

    Hope that helps.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Richard
    Hi Mathieu, you've got some really good infor here that helps me building my own PC. I think I've got a basic idea of how to put the hardwares together now, however I still do not know what to do after I turn on the computer, how to configure bios and install windows and driver etc... so can you give me some step by step guide on that? btw Im building the $1000 gaming PC and Im wondering if this setup can run 64 bit windows? oh another thing, why some people put thermal compound on top of their CPU? what does it do and is it necessary for the $1000 gaming PC setup? thanks in advance
  • Richard,

    The BIOS is relatively simple. You enter it by pressing a specific key (Usually f8 or f12, although it varies depending on the motherboard) when the computer turns on and you see a prompt to press said key.

    Most of the BIOS will be automatically configured by the computer itself, based on your parts. What you'll want to change are hard drives/RAID settings if you want two hard drives in RAID, as well as the boot order; You'll want the DVD drive to boot first to begin with.

    Instructions on how to do this will be in your motherboard manual (Which is included with the motherboard, but you can also download it online, on the motherboard manufacturer website before getting your motherboard, if you want to be one step ahead). Be sure to read the manual, you'll learn many valuable thing about your motherboard and how to set it up by reading the manual.

    Once you're done with the BIOS, restart your PC and insert your windows CD/DVD in the DVD drive. If you've configured your BIOS properly, the disk will be auto-read and you'll be able to start installing Windows. If nothing loads, go back to your BIOS and make sure that the DVD Drive is first on the boot list. Once Windows start installing, it will eventually restart your computer all by itself. At that point, go back in the BIOS and change the boot order so that your hard drive is now first on the list.

    Here's some additional info to help you build your PC:
    FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer
    10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders
    Finally, if your newly built computer won’t start, I invite you to read Help me: Why won’t my newly assembled PC start or boot?

    All our Gaming Builds are optimized to run with 64-bit, which I highly recommend, since 32-bit will limit you to a total of 4GB of memory (Including memory on video cards, CPU, etc.), which will prevent you from using all your RAM. Windows 7 greatly improved 64-bit support and drivers support is no longer a problem with 64-bit. My workstation at home runs Windows 7 64-bit smoothly, the laptop on which I'm typing these very words runs Windows 7 64-bit smoothly as well.

    Regarding thermal paste: High-quality thermal paste will reduce the temperature of your CPU. If you have no intention of overclocking, the stock cooler, with its pre-installed thermal pad will do the job just fine and you won't need thermal paste. So no, it is no necessary, only recommended if you overclock your CPU.

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have more questions Richard.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Richard
    Hi Mathieu, thank you for the quick reply, that was really helpful. Since Im from Australia, some of the hardwares you mentioned are really difficult to get hold of for a good price so I decided to make a few changes. I've found this online store which has really good prices and good reputations as well in Australia but they don't have all the hardwares you mentioned, so far I only decided to use intel i5-760 cpu, and they don't have ASUS maximus gene motherboard so can you recommend a crossfire ready motherboard in the price range of 200 AUD from this link:

    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=138_711_897

    Also for the GPU, they don't have HIS radeon 5770 but HIS radeon 5770 iceQ, what's the difference between these two? I've heard a lot of good things about the MIS radeon 5770 Hawk but unfortunately they don't have the hawk version, so can you recommend a GPU from this link for me: (best price for the quality)
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=193_962

    For the ram I've decided to use G.Skill ripjaws 2*2GB, power supply: corsair HX 750W, the seasonic X series 750W is $35 more expansive so I decided to use corsair instead. Finally for the case I decided to use Cooler Master Storm Scout mid tower, I think it can hold all these stuff I want no problem. btw what do you think of the following build:
    CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1055T ~$255
    2.66Ghz, 8MB Cache, Quad Core, LGA1156
    Motherboard: ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 Motherboard ~$199
    890GX Chipset, CrosffireX, USB3/SATA3 support, 4x DDR3 2200+
    GPU: Sapphire ATI Radeon HD5850 1GB ~$349
    Custom GPU cooler, factory overclocked for some extra performance.
    RAM: Patriot PC3-10600 2x2GB DDR3 ~$129
    Case: CoolerMaster CM 690 II Advanced with Window Panel ~$149
    Power Supply: Corsair HX-750 Power Supply $199

    How does this build compare to the one Im trying to build and the $1000 gaming PC build? thanks in advance
  • Richard,

    Motherboard wise, this one (http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=138_711_897&products_id=13025) would perfectly fit your budget and needs (Crossfire, with proper bandwidth).

    Video card: They are both the same card, only the IceQ has a better cooler than the standard card. Also, they actually have the regular HIS Radeon HD 5770 here: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_962&products_id=15075

    As for the other build vs this $1000 Gaming PC:
    CPU is slower for gaming
    Two Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire are faster than the Radeon HD 5850
    Rest is fairly similar, performance wise anyway.

    So in the end, this $1000 Gaming Build is far superior when it comes to gaming performance.

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have more questions.

    Cheers, Mathieu.
  • Coa
    Hey, first time builder here. I was looking at your builds and really liked the $1000 one but due to being in the UK I couldn't replicate to the tee, therefore I have sort of come up with this, http://orders.ebuyer.com/customer/shopping/index.html?action=c2hvd2NhcnQ%3D. I'm just wondering whether everything goes with everything else etc and whether there might be downgrades I can do without losing too much since I'm quite close to my budget and I still need to get the OS etc and prefer not to go over my budget.
  • That link doesn't work for me (shows an empty basket) so I doubt that it will work for MathieuB. Maybe make a list of all the items links? It'll take a while but will probably be more informative than a screenshot in the case of obscure item names.
  • Coa,

    Unfortunately, the link that you left leads me to an empty shopping cart. If you want to double-check the link, I'll be glad to help you with finding some downgrades that won't affect performance too much.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Coa
  • Coa,

    Alright, I took a look at your list, here's are my recommendations:

    First of all, your motherboard is not adequate for Crossfire (The Asus P7P55 LX), since the second PCI-Express slot only runs at PCI-Express 1.0 4x, which will starve your second video card of bandwidth that it needs to offer optimal performance.

    I took a look at what's available on Ebuyer and the MSI P55-GD65 (http://www.ebuyer.com/product/172654) would be the most affordable motherboard that effectively support Crossfire.

    Now, I do realize that it's nearly 35 pounds more, however you can't skip on the motherboard without killing performance, so instead, here are ways that you can reduce the cost of your build, without sacrificing performance too much.

    In order of what affects performance the least to the most:
    - No effect on performance at all: Replace the optical drive by this one(-5£): http://www.ebuyer.com/product/176026
    - No effect on performance at all: Change the brand of the two Radeon HD 5770 to this brand(-23£): http://www.ebuyer.com/product/199404
    - Windows and Games will take longer to load, but you lose no storage capacity nor performance by switching to a single Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB (-35£): http://www.ebuyer.com/product/173804

    The CPU is already good, but you can improve it further more for only 3 pounds, with the faster i5 760 (http://www.ebuyer.com/product/229999)

    Great deal on the case/PSU combo by the way.

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have any questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Coa
    Thank you so much for the quick reply and the work you put into it, you have no idea how much this helps, completely new to all of this and was just lost until I came across your site.
  • Hey,
    Thanks for this excellent guide :)
    I can't find G.Skill RAM in England. Am I right in thinking that the following combination of parts is alright?

    CMX4GX3M2A1600C9 - 4GB (2x2GB) Corsair XMS3 DDR3 PC3-12800 (1600), Non-ECC Unbuffered, CAS 9-9-9-24, XMP, 1.65V
    http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/4GB-%282x2GB%29-Corsair-XMS3-DDR3-PC3-12800-%281600%29-Non-ECC-Unbuffered-CAS-9-9-9-24-XMP-165V

    Asus Maximus III GENE, Intel P55 Express, S1156, DDR3 2133(OC), SATA 3Gb/s, SATA RAID, mATX
    http://www.scan.co.uk/products/Asus-Maximus-III-GENE-Intel-P55-Motherboard-LGA1156

    BX80605I5750 - Intel Core i5 750, Lynnfield 45nm, Quad Core, 2.66GHz, 8MB Cache, 95W, Retail
    http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Intel-Core-i5-750-Lynnfield-45nm-Quad-Core-266GHz-8MB-Cache-95W-Retail

    Much appreciated. This is my second go at trying to build a gaming machine. Previous experience was DOA hell.
  • Jaisus,

    That looks good to me.

    Let me know if you have other questions or need help with your build.

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
  • Hey MathieuB,

    Even though the website claimed that the motherboard was in stock when I ordered it I've since received a message saying they are out of stock. I'm going to ring them tomorrow (UK times) and see about switching it for another motherboard so that I can get my parts here before Friday (when a friend is coming over to help me).

    I'm thinking Asus P7P55D PRO. The only danger here is that it's physically bigger, right? I mean to ask if the RAM and CPU I linked to previously are all compatible. I think that the case I have will fit it (http://www.ebuyer.com/product/143854) and the 2 fans in the case should make up for the lack of fans on the new motherboard.

    Thank you for all of your help :)
    Jai
  • Jai,

    The case (Only thing you need to worry about regarding physical size compatibility) will indeed support the Asus P7P55D PRO's ATX form factor, so replacing the motherboard to the Asus P7P55D PRO won't be a problem.

    I can also confirm that the Asus P7P55D PRO is compatible with the RAM and CPU that you previously linked to.

    However, two case fans (The Antec Three Hundred model that I recommended, the Antec Three Hundred Illusion comes with four case fans, you've got the basic Antec Three Hundred.) is a bit on the weak side though, I would definitely recommend adding at least one 120mm case fan to the side, to feed some fresh air to the two video cards in Crossfire.
  • OK thanks. The case is something that I already have so I'm not keen to replace it. I'll see about buying and adding an additional fan to the case and let you know how it all works out.

    [edit] Rung them and changed the motherboard to the Asus P7P55D PRO and the lady said they'll try and get it dispatched today :) So I should have the parts on Wednesday and, even if they don't manage it today, on Thursday with time for building it on Friday.
  • Jai,

    Awesome, let me know how the whole process and I'll be here if you need some help building it.

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
  • Drew
    I'm a little confused about the mobo you linked. At the top of this page you mention it has crossfire and sli support, but midway down you say no sli. Then you say it has SATA 6.0gbs and usb3.0, but on the newegg specs it doesn't mention anything about either of those.
  • Snoopyzzz9
    You're right Drew; I also checked it straight from the Asus site because Newegg is wrong sometimes. I think this page needs to be fixed up in a couple spots, and maybe rethink that mobo again.
    http://usa.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=YwO7uzOlu1js0TqM&templete=2
  • Drew and Snoopyzzz9,

    My apologies, I changed the motherboard but forgot to update a section of it. This has been corrected and to clarify things:

    The motherboard does not support SATA 6.0Gb/s nor USB 3.0, which would be useless given the P55 chipset limited bandwidth, allowing only the usage of SATA 6.0Gb/s nor USB 3.0 on motherboards that support it and only when you use a single video card. The minute that you use either Crossfire or SLI, SATA 6.0Gb/s nor USB 3.0 support is out of the window.

    Finally, the motherboard supports Crossfire and SLI.

    Once again, I'm sorry about the confusion that this may have confused.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Snoopyzzz9
    Woah... Radeon 5870 is only $342 with shipping if you order today...
  • Yu
    I just bought 2 of those spinpoint harddrives, I hope they are better than my hitachi deskstars. What software do you recommend to clone my old drive into my new? Thanks Mathieu.
  • EBOBO
    You could try http://www.acronis.com/ if you have the money. I've used it before, but I'm not exactly sure what you're wanting.
  • Yu,

    I specialize in hardware, not so much into software, so I'm afraid that I can't be of much help here, however I'm sure that you could find good information through Google.

    Personally, I would backup on an external drive or DVDs and do a fresh install, but that's me ;)

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
blog comments powered by Disqus