$1250 Gaming PC: How does two Geforce GTX 460 1GB in SLI sound to you?

Mathieu Bourgie | July 30, 2010 | View Comments
Geforce GTX 460 SLI

This Build features two Geforce GTX 460 in SLI. Note that the actual cards may look different, depending on the model that you pick.

Upcoming Updates

Last week, I updated the $400 Gaming PC, the $500 Gaming PC and the $600 Gaming Computer.

Earlier this week, I updated the $700 Gaming Computer, the $850 Gaming Computer as well as the $1000 Gaming Computer. Today I’m updating the $1250 Gaming PC.

Expect updates to the more expensive ($1500+) Gaming Builds, as well as a few new more powerful Gaming Builds ($2500+) starting in the second week of August, with updates to our Best Of type of articles next week.

Automatically receive our future articles for free via RSS or Email:

Did you know that you can get our future articles, such as the Gaming PC Guides, for free via RSS or Email? That way, you never have to check the site for updates again because you get the latest and greatest articles delivered automatically in your RSS reader or Email inbox around 7PM EST, every day that I publish an article.

If you’re not familiar with RSS technology, here an article that explains What is RSS?

If the fact that you’ll be receiving outstanding custom PC designs for free is not enough to convince you, here are 7 Reasons to get our posts via RSS or Email.

This version compared to the previous version of the $1250 Gaming Build:

  1. The CPU got a slight downgrade, from the Intel Core i7 860 2.8GHz Quad-Core HT to the Intel Core i5 760 2.8GHz Quad-Core. The only thing that you lose here is Hyper-Threading, which pretty much makes no difference in video games performance, as you can see in this iXBT Labs article.The story is different when it comes to say, video converting, but last time I checked, this was a Gaming PC. Of course, if you want the do video converting on this PC and want top-notch performance while doing so, you can upgrade the CPU to one with HT.Note that by doing this slight downgrade, you lose no performance in video games, yet save $80 that can be used on other parts.
  2. The Video card gets a major upgrade from a Radeon HD 5870 1GB to two Gigabyte Geforce GTX 460 1GB in SLI. For $460, you get more performance than the fastest single-GPU video card, the Geforce GTX 480 (which is faster than the Radeon HD 5870). Heck, you get performance close to the $700 Radeon HD 5970!! Talk about bang for your buck. P.S. Remember that $80 that you just saved on the CPU? This is where most of it went. ;)
  3. The Motherboard was changed from a GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 LGA1156 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0 Crossfire 8x/8x to an ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 P55 Micro ATX. Why?
    • Well, first of all because the USB 3.0 and SATA 6.0Gb/s on the Gigabyte board only works with a single video card and this build will use two cards in SLI.
    • Then, you should know that the ASUS board features nothing short of five fan headers, have dedicated buttons on the back for a CMOS reset for example (very useful for overclocking), has an extensive power delivery circuit, capable of handling heavy overclocking.
    • Of course, it features Crossfire support, as well as SLI support.
    • Finally, all of this is packed in a Micro ATX board, allowing you to use it in a smaller case if you wish to.
  4. The Hard Drive was upgraded, performance and capacity wise, from a Western Digital 750GB Black Caviar to two Samsung F3 500GB in RAID 0 (Total Capacity: 1TB), simply because the Samsung model performs better to begin with, no to mention the major performance gain when you put two in RAID 0!
  5. The Power Supply was upgraded from a Corsair 650W 80PLUS to an Antec 750W 80 PLUS Modular. With two Geforce GTX 460 in SLI, the power requirements of this build went up, hence the more powerful power supply.
  6. The Sound Card was upgraded from the Realtek ALC888 sound card integrated on the GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 motherboard to the SupremeFX X-Fi sound card integrated on the ASUS Maximus III GENE motherboard. No, this won’t bring much, if any performance boost, but the enhanced sound quality is a pro.
  7. The CPU Cooler was downgraded from the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ to the Intel Stock Cooler. I know, the Intel Stock Cooler is no where as good, but it’s just fine if you don’t overclock your CPU, which most people don’t. If you do want to overclock though, feel free to upgrade the CPU Cooler to, say…A Cooler Master Hyper 212+? :D
  8. Other than that, the build is unchanged and now costs $1275 instead of $1234, a $41 increase, that is easily justified by the significant gain in performance compared to the previous version. Mind you, this is still well within the -/+5% margin that I give myself regarding the budget ($1250 + 5% is $1312.50).

Is this the right type of PC for me?

If you’re looking for a PC to play video games, you’re at the right place. If this is not what you’re looking for, check out our other Computer Systems instead.

$1250 Gaming computer hardware parts recommendations, short version:

Explanation:

  • In the left column, you have the component type, such as the Processor, Video Card, etc.
  • In the middle column, you have the specific brand, model and a quick look at specifications for that part, as well as a link to buy it.
  • In Bold, you’ll find my recommendations for the parts that you should buy in order to have the best overall performance while fitting the overall budget.
  • In Italic, you’ll find the best possible upgrades if you have money to spare. These are the parts that offer better features or more performance, while still being relatively affordable in regard to the overall budget. In simple terms, if you want a more powerful video card, pick it from the list of recommended upgrades that are in Italic.
  • In the right column, you’ll find the best price that I found after double-checking at various trustworthy online sellers such as Amazon.com, NewEgg.com, Buy.com and others.
  • If upgrades just don’t cut it, visit the Gaming PCs page, where you’ll find our other gaming computer custom build designs.
  • Note that all upgrades are compatible with the rest of the system, as well as other upgrades, meaning that you can choose one or many upgrades without a problem. Of course, please carefully read any note(s) that I may leave to clarify and avoid some possible issues.

Required components:

Components Make, Model and Specifications Price
CPU/Processor Intel Core i5-760 2.8GHz LGA1156 95W Quad-Core
Intel Core i7-870 2.93GHz LGA1156 95W Quad-Core HT
Intel Core i7-875K 2.93GHz LGA1156 Quad-Core HT Unlocked
$210
$290
$330
Motherboard ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 P55 Micro ATX
ASUS P7P55D PRO LGA 1156 P55
GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD4P LGA1156 P55 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0 ATX
ASUS Maximus III Formula LGA1156 P55 ATX w/ Sound Card
$160
$170
$185
$230
RAM G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 9
G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 7 1.35V
CORSAIR XMS 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 2000MHz 1.65V
G.SKILL 8GB (4 x 2GB) DDR3 1600MHz
$98
$105
$120
$200
Video Card Two GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 460 1GB OC Edition in SLI $460
Hard Drive Two Samsung F3 500GB SATA II 3.0Gb/s in RAID 0 for 1TB
Two Samsung F3 1TB SATA II 3.0Gb/s in RAID 0 for 2TB
$106
$140
Optical Drive LITE-ON Black 24X SATA CD/DVD Burner
LITE-ON 4X Blu-ray Reader SATA
LG 10X Blu-ray Burner SATA
$19
$60
$110
Power Supply CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W SLI/CrossFire/80 PLUS
SeaSonic S12D 850W 80PLUS SILVER Certified
$110
$120
Case COOLER MASTER HAF 922
LIAN LI Lancool PC-K62
LIAN LI PC-7BYCF
Antec Nine Hundred
Antec Nine Hundred Two
$90
$100
$90
$100
$120
Cooling Intel CPU Stock Cooler included with CPU
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus 120mm CPU Cooler
ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 Thermal Compound
CORSAIR All-in-One Water-Cooling CPU Cooler
COOLER MASTER 200mm Red LED Case Fan
Rosewill RFX-120 Adjustable 120mm Case Fan
Free
$25
$8
$75
$22
$8
Sound 7.1 Surround SupremeFX X-Fi sound card: Integrated
Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE 7.1 24-bit PCI
Free
$35
Network Ethernet RJ-45 10/100/1000 Mbps: Integrated on the motherboard Free
Total price Not Including OS, Shipping nor handling. Within -/+ 5% of Budget $1275

Accessories:

Accessories Make, Model and Specifications Price
Headphone Rosewill RH-40C 3.5mm Circumaural
SONIC HP-259 3.5mm Circumaural
PLANTRONICS .Audio 355 3.5mm Circumaural
SENNHEISER PC31 Dual 3.5mm Supra-aural
KOSS SB45 3.5mm Circumaural
Logitech G330 3.5mm/ USB Circumaural
ABS AZ1 Circumaural USB
SENNHEISER PC151 3.5mm Binaural
$7
$8
$20
$28
$30
$43
$50
$50
Speakers Logitech X-140 5 watts 2.0
Creative Inspire T3130 15 Watts 2.1
Logitech X-540 70 watts 5.1
$27
$50
$89
Monitor ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080
Two ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080
Three ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080
$180
$360
$540

Computer Builds FAQs:

I often get questions such as:

  • Who are you to tell me which parts to choose?
  • Can you suggest me a step by step guide to build a computer?
  • Why should I build a PC instead of buying one in a store?
  • And many more…

You will find the answers to all of these questions and more in this article: FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer

Also, if this is your first build, here are 10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders to get you started.

About Gaming PCs:

Gaming Computers are all about playing video games. Every year, new video games that pushes the boundaries of visual effects are released and demand more and more power from your computer to run. Being so powerful to handle cutting-edge video games, they are also very good all-around computers, capable of handling photo/video edition, web development, High Definition content playback and much more.

This is why our Gaming Builds Designs focus both on current performance for today’s games, as well as being ready to upgrade, to be ready to handle future games. For Gaming Builds Designs, a big portion of the budget goes to the Video Card and the Processor to ensure high performance in video games, as well as a solid power supply with a case with good cooling abilities, to ensure reliability.

Upgrades will usually focus on the processor and video card for enhanced performance, as well as on the power supply and cooling, to enhance overclocking capabilities. You may choose to upgrade the hard drive for more capacity, or change the case to get one that matches your personal preferences, such as look, cooling, size, etc.

$1250 Gaming Computer Hardware parts recommendations, detailed version:

Motherboard:

ASUS Maximus III GENE

ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 P55 Micro ATX

This motherboard is filled with great features. On the back, it features eight USB 2.0 ports, FireWire, E-SATA, S/PDIF Out via Optical, one PS/2, Gigabit LAN and 7.1 Surround audio via the SupremeFX X-Fi sound card. Crossfire and SLI is supported, with two PCI-Express 2.0 16x slots running at 8x/8x (8x/8x offering similar performance to 16x/16x, even with the high-end Geforce GTX 480, see below). This motherboard supports/is compatible with everything in this system, including the two Geforce GTX 460 in SLI of course.

Performance difference between 16x/16x vs 8x/8x PCI-Express slots:

Wait, what do I hear? You NEED 16x/16x PCI-Express slots or the performance will crumble? Let me tell you this: That’s rubbish. Here’s an excellent quote that resumes the situation:

“NVIDIA’s GeForce GTX 480 is a very fast graphics processor. To maintain its speeds, it would hypothetically require high system bandwidth, leading one to think that lesser PCI-Express configurations would cripple it.

The theory couldn’t be more wrong, as seen by the mere 2% performance loss going from x16 to x8 (which reduces bandwidth by 50%). To cite results from one of the latest and resource-heavy games in our bench, Collin McRae DiRT 2, that translates into something like 63.2 FPS vs. 62.1 FPS, at 2560 x 1600 pixels resolution – barely a difference. More information on it at techPowerUp.

As you can see, unless you use a dual-GPU card (GTX 295 or Radeon HD 5970), 8x/8x is just fine, unless losing 1.1FPS will kill you…

Ports:

Anyway, back to the motherboard: On the board itself, you have two PCI-Express 2.0 16X (Single at 16x, Crossfire or SLI 8x/8x, in Red), one PCI-Express 4X and one PCI slot, along with seven SATA 3.0Gb/s ports. Note that this motherboard does not feature an IDE port, which are getting rare on mainstream/high-end motherboards.

Best of all? This board is based on the Micro ATX form factor, allowing it to fit in smaller cases if you want to build a small LAN machine without sacrificing performance.

Note that it comes with nothing short of six SATA cables, so no need to buy any for the DVD Burner and the two hard drives.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. Reliable, great overclocking motherboard, Crossfire/SLI support are a few words that I can use to describe the ASUS P7P55D PRO LGA 1156 P55 It doesn’t have any particular outstanding feature, instead it’s a good all-around motherboard, capable of doing what you want, whether that’s overclocking, two video cards in SLI or Crossfire or just a normal stock reliable machine.
  2. Similar to my recommendation, the GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD4P LGA1156 P55 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0 ATX throws in SLI support, even more ports in the back, such as FireWire, includes Dual-LAN and keeps the USB 3.0/SATA 6.0Gb/s support, as long as you don’t use Crossfire or SLI that is.
  3. The ASUS Maximus III Formula LGA1156 P55 ATX w/ Sound Card is one mad motherboard. Optimized for overclocking, it includes a dedicated sound card and supports nothing short of ten SATA devices. Considered by many, including myself, as the best motherboard for overclocking on the LGA 1156 socket.

CPU:

Intel Core i5-760

Intel Core i5-760 2.8GHz LGA1156 95W Quad-Core

In the same price range, AMD offers the Phenom II X4 965BE 3.4GHz at $180 or the Phenom II X6 1055T 2.8GHz. I went with the Core i5-760 2.8GHz for the following reasons:

  1. The slower, 2.66GHz Core i5-750 outperforms the X4 965 in three out of four gaming benchmarks on Anandtech, with an average of 92.9 FPS for the Core i5 750 and an average of 87.1 FPS for the X4 965. I’m sure that you can imagine that the faster i5-760 will just outperform the Phenom II X4 965 even more.
  2. As for the Phenom II X6 1055T: It can’t keep up with the Core i5 750, let alone the faster i5-760, as you can see here at AnandTech. Even AMD’s most expensive processor at the moment, the $300 Phenom II X6 1090T, can’t keep up with the Core i5 750 when it comes to gaming. Imagine with the faster Core i5 760 ;)
  3. Unlike the AMD X4 965, you can upgrade the Core i5 760 to a faster gaming CPU (in real games tests that is, not synthetic benchmarks) on the same socket without a problem.
  4. The Core i5 760 (2.80GHz) has a lot more overclocking potential than the nearly maxed-out Phenom II X4 965 (3.4GHz).

Recommended upgrades (Compared to the Intel Core i5-760 main recommendation):

  1. Intel Core i7-870 Lynnfield 2.93GHz 8MB L3 LGA1156 95W Quad-Core w/ HT – Here you get 133MHz more, along with Hyper-Threading, allowing this CPU to handle up to 8 threads. While HT brings no performance advantage to gaming, it’s a big bonus if you do any audio/photo/video editing or work with highly demanding programs.
  2. Intel Core i7-875K 2.93GHz 8MB L3 LGA1156 95W Quad-Core w/ HT Unlocked – Same as the Core i7-860, except for one big advantage: The Core i7-875K comes with an unlocked multiplier, allowing you to easily overclock it without stressing your motherboard and RAM. Note that the i7-875K does not includes a CPU Cooler, you need to buy one.
  3. For additional options, check out our guide to The Best CPUs For Your Money. Make sure to double-check compatibility with sockets, chipsets and memory if you pick another CPU. You can also leave a comment to ask me ;)

Video Card:

GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 460 SLI

Two GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 460 1GB OC Edition in SLI

Overtaking my previous recommendation for this build, the Radeon HD 5870, the two Geforce GTX 460 in SLI setup is the logical choice here, considering their price ($460) and how much more performance they offer compared to the Radeon HD 5870. Of course, this is possible due to the release of this great card from Nvidia this month, at a reasonable $230 per card price point. Don’t you love technology advancements and competition?

For more information on the performance that you can expect:
Take a look at the following benchmarks, from Tom’s Hardware, for a comparison to a single Geforce GTX 460, the Geforce GTX 480 and the Radeon HD 5870:

  1. Alien vs Predator
  2. COD: Modern Warfare 2
  3. Crysis
  4. DiRT 2
  5. S.T.A.L.K.E.R.: Call of Pripyat

With its release this month and the level of performance that you get for the price, you sure can expect this dual Geforce GTX 460 SLI setup to take the $450 price point when I update The Best Video Cards For Your Money article next week.

This setup is capable of handling pretty much any game at a resolution of 1920 x 1080, 2560 x 1600 or even 3840 x 1080 (two 1920 x 1080 side by side) with high visual quality.

Finally, this setup is DirectX 11 compliant, HDCP Ready and will handle Blu-Ray and other 1080p content playback, with audio over HDMI as well.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. Other, more powerful options are available in our guide to The Best Video Cards For Your Money. Make sure to consider power requirements and the length of a video card if you decide to go with a different card. Also very important: A very powerful video card(s) will be useless with a slower CPU/System that would bottleneck the said high-end video card. Make sure to balance the system as a whole.

RAM:

G.SKILL Ripjaws DDR3 1600

G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 9

4GB of RAM is pretty much mandatory to handle the latest video games along with Windows and background background such as your anti-virus, web browser, music/video player, etc.

Considering the price of RAM these days and the ever-expending memory use of games and programs, 4GB of high-speed DDR3 memory is a no-brainer.

I went with G.Skill for their high reliability and compatibility with the majority of motherboards. I chose these particular sticks due to their low price and regular 1.5V requirement for DDR3 1600MHz frequency.

Recommended upgrades

  1. If you want a kit that has lower latencies and needs only 1.35V to run at 1600MHz, take a look at the G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 7 1.35V memory kit.
  2. CORSAIR XMS 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 2000MHz 9-9-9-24 1.65V – If you intend to overclock, this kit of RAM will give you more headroom to breath, preventing your RAM from being the limiting factor in your overclocking and resulting in more performance from the higher RAM frequency. Of course, if you get an unlocked CPU, with which the overclocking can easily by done by raising the CPU multiplier, which doesn’t affect the RAM at all, then you can stick with DDR3 1600MHz. Then again, for only $20 more, this kit gives you the flexibility of raising the bus speed to overclock.
  3. G.SKILL 8GB (4 x 2GB) DDR3 1600MHz – Future-proof your system from ever increasing software and game memory usage by upgrading to 8GB. Note that if you intend to overclock, you’re better off sticking to two sticks of 2GB for the best overclocking results, as more sticks/GB puts additional stress on the CPU.

Hard Drive:

Samsung F3 500GB

Two Samsung F3 500GB SATA 3.0Gb/s in RAID 0, Total Capacity: 1TB

In this Tom’s Hardware hard drive article, the SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ (The 1TB version) finishes on top of all transfer rates benchmarks, even ahead of what used to be my recommendation for high-end builds, the Western Digital Caviar Black. Now, guess what happens if you take two of the 500GB version of this drive and put them in RAID 0 (Easily done via the BIOS)? You get a setup that’s nearly twice as fast compared to the F3 HD103SJ 1TB edition, for only $32 more, with also a 1TB capacity.

Considering that the hard drive is often the bottleneck in a system and that no ones likes waiting for their game to load, this is a simple and relatively inexpensive upgrade compared to a single drive, like the Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB featured in the previous version of this build.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. Two Samsung F3 1TB SATA II 3.0Gb/s in RAID 0, Total Capacity: 2TB – Same as above, 300+MB/s transfer rates, except that you get a 2TB storage capacity this time.
  2. Interested in SSDs (Solid State Drives), or want a different drive? I invite you to take a look to our guide to the Best Hard Drives & Best SSDs For Your Money.

Optical Drive:

LITE-ON CD/DVD Burner

LITE-ON Black 24X SATA CD/DVD Burner

This drive is able to read and burn CDs and DVDs. Silent, compatible with all major formats including DVD-RAM.

Also, seeing as DVD Burners are often go out of stock lately, here are a two alternatives that you can use to replace it. All are SATA based.

  1. LITE-ON Black 24X SATA Black CD/DVD Writer
  2. HP Black 24X SATA 24X CD/DVD Writer – Retail

Upgrades:

If you’d like to watch BluRay movies or TV shows, this LITE-ON 4X Blu-ray Reader SATA will do the job. However, note that it can only READ CDs, DVDs and Bluray disks, not burn any of them.

If you want the ability to burn disks as well, the LG 10X Blu-ray Burner SATA is what you want.

Regarding Blu-Ray playback:

As far as I know, you still require a specific software to playback Blu-Ray disks on a PC. Based on various reviews and feedback on various forums, PowerDVD 9 Ultra is the software that I recommend to you. It is fully compatible with Windows 7 and shouldn’t give you any problems.

Case:

COOLER MASTER HAF 922

COOLER MASTER HAF 922

For $90, this is an outstanding case from Cooler Master:

  • Cooling wise, this case includes two 140mm and one 200mm case fans, insuring proper cooling for your Gaming PC.Important: I put money aside in the budget to add one COOLER MASTER 200mm Red LED Case Fan to the side panel in order to improve airflow to your video cards in SLI, to keep them at a reasonable temperature.

Features wise, you get:

  1. A unique look with Red LEDs, not the common blue LEDs equipped on so many cases. Best of all, if LEDs annoy you, you have the option to turn them off.
  2. Support for up to five hard drives
  3. Enough space for the longest video cards .
  4. 2x USB, E-SATA Audio out, MIC in at the top

Recommended upgrades:

Power Supply:

CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W

CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W SLI/CrossFire/80 PLUS Certified

This power supply is capable of delivering up to 750W, not that should rely on this information only as I often point in posts such as Warning: 6 Surefire Ways of Blowing Up Your Computer Due to an Inadequate Power Supply, but more importantly 60A on the 12V line, the most important factor when it comes to choosing a power supply for a gaming computer.

Best of all, it is 80 PLUS certified, meaning that it’s always at least 80% efficient, resulting in less heat, more silence and a lower electricity bill for you, compared to a less efficient power supply.

Power Consumption:

According to the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator, it is estimated that this system will consume at load (peak usage):

  • 483W with the recommended Intel Core i5 760 95W (Or any CPU Upgrade), the two Geforce GTX 460 on SLI, the two hard drives in RAID 0 and rest of this build without upgrades.
  • 541W with an Intel Core i7 875K overclocked to 3600MHz 1.4V, four sticks of RAM, two hard drives in RAID and two Geforce GTX 460 in SLI. This is the worse case scenario.

The power supply will have no problem handling the base recommended setup, or any upgrade with or without overclocking.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. SeaSonic S12D 850W 80PLUS SILVER Certified – For $10 more (It’s at a very low price at the moment), this power supply will easily pay for itself with its higher level of efficiency, being 80PLUS Silver certified (Meaning that it’s at least 85% efficient at 20% and 100% and 88% efficient at 50% load.), which will reduce your electricity bill compared to a less efficient power supply. I also recommended this power supply to be future-proof, if you do consider upgrading to a more powerful SLI/Crossfire setup at one point in future, without losing the ability to overclock to your heart’s desire, something that would bring power consumption to 600W, if not even 700W+ depending on your setup.
  2. If you’re not sure and need help to pick the right power supply, set some time aside and read Warning: 6 Surefire Ways of Blowing Up Your Computer Due to an Inadequate Power Supply.

Cooling: Stock cooling

To save on costs, I recommend using the cooler included with the CPU. While there are better coolers, the one that is included is good enough to handle the cpu under normal operation. The case includes cooling fans as well to help you keep your system cool.

However, there are two reasons why you may choose to upgrade your cooling system:

  1. To keep your computer components cooler, which in return extend their lifespan and allows you to overclock to higher speed.
  2. To keep your system silent, as the stock cooling can get noisy at times, especially during prolonged gaming sessions.

Alternatives:

  1. CPU Cooler: If you decide to give overclocking and/or unlocking cores, I cannot stress enough the importance of a good cooler.The COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus 120mm CPU Cooler offers the best value regarding performance for the price.
  2. Thermal Compound: Use the ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 Thermal Compound either with the stock cooler or better, with the upgraded CPU cooler to lower your CPU temperatures further more. For $8, this is a wise investment.
  3. Case cooling: I put money aside in the budget to add the COOLER MASTER 200mm Red LED Case Fan to the side panel in order to improve the airflow to your video cards in SLI.
  4. If you pick a different case where you’d like to add 120mm case fans, take a look at the Rosewill RFX-120 Adjustable 120mm Case Fan, which are well priced and come with a fan controller. Of course, feel free to opt for another 120mm case fan if you prefer to.

Sound Card: SupremeFX X-Fi: Integrated on the motherboard

Integrated with the motherboard, this sound card will handle many different sound setups, including headphones, a microphone and more.

Note that the ASUS Maximus III Formula motherboard upgrade includes a dedicated sound card.

Recommended upgrade:

For $35, you can get the Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE 7.1 24-bit PCI, which will definitely provide a nice boost in audio quality compared to regular integrated sound. However, the SupremeFX X-Fi integrated on the recommended motherboard will do just fine, consider this card if the motherboard you pick has “regular” integrated sound.

Network: Ethernet RJ-45 10/100/1000 Mbps LAN: Integrated on the motherboard

Integrated with the motherboard, this network adapter will allow you to access your local network and Internet.

Accessories:

Headphones – With a Microphone:

Headphones, with a microphones, are a must for many games, especially First Person Shooters (FPS), where a lack of team communication can break a team. However, I do realize that we all have different tastes when it comes to headphones, as in which size is comfortable, which brand sounds the best, etc. This is why I found eight great pair of headphones, with prices ranging from $7 to $50, for you to choose from:

  1. Rosewill RH-40C 3.5mm Circumaural
  2. SONIC HP-259 3.5mm Circumaural
  3. PLANTRONICS .Audio 355 3.5mm Circumaural
  4. SENNHEISER PC31 Dual 3.5mm Supra-aural
  5. KOSS SB45 3.5mm Circumaural
  6. Logitech G330 3.5mm/ USB Circumaural
  7. ABS AZ1 Circumaural USB
  8. SENNHEISER PC151 3.5mm Binaural

Speakers:

If all you want is a pair of decent, inexpensive speakers, the Logitech X-140 5 watts 2.0 at $27, or the Creative Inspire T3130 15 Watts 2.1 for $50 will do a great job.

Looking for higher quality speakers, without breaking the bank still? The Logitech X-540 70 watts 5.1 make for an excellent and affordable 5.1 setup.

Display:

For a long time, you’ve been asking for recommendations for a good monitor to play on. I’m listening to you and I’ve decided to include at the very least, one recommendation of a good monitor for every Gaming PC.

My recommendations are based on the following criteria:

  • Price: I obviously won’t recommend a $1000 monitor if the budget for the PC is $1000.
  • Resolution: The resolution of the monitor directly impacts the performance within video games, as higher resolution are more demanding on the system, resulting in lower FPS. Picking the right resolution for a particular system is crucial to achieve good performance.
  • Response time: The lower the better, very important with video games.
  • Brightness and Contrast Ratio: The higher, the better.
  1. With its resolution of 1920 x 1080, the ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080 gets my main recommendation for the $1250 Gaming PC, as it is, without upgrades. This Build will have no problem offering maxed out performance in all video games on this monitor, including Crysis. It is also the best option to be able to play future video games (Think DirectX 11 games) without upgrading for a long time.
  2. With this $1250 Gaming PC as it is, you can consider two ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080 side by side, for a resolution of 3840 x 1080 thanks to Nvidia’s Vision Surround technology and still play with the highest details in pretty much any game. If you want to play with more than one monitor but still be future-proof, this is the way to go.
  3. If you want the whole immersion experience of playing with three monitors side by side, get three ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080, for a resolution of 5760 x 1080 (or 3240 x 1920, depending on the orientation), thanks to Nvidia’s Surround Vision and you’ll still be able with the highest details in the most games.

Recommended operating systems:

The operating system cost, if there’s one, is not included in the total cost. The two reason for this are:

  1. The budget only considers hardware.
  2. You may be able re-use a previous license, go with an open-source OS such as Linux or, if you’re so inclined and are aware of what you’re doing, use torrents.

If you decide that you need a need OS, here are some recommendations:

Windows 7

Despite Linux gaining more and more support, Windows still is the platform of choice for compatibility at the moment. Considering that you’ll have 4GB of RAM or more, along with a dedicated video that also has memory (512MB or 1GB), you’ll need a 64-bit version, as 32-bit is limited to 4GB of memory for the entire system, which is not enough now, nor in the future if you decide to upgrade.

Windows 7 is by far better than Windows Vista, looks better, more functional, less annoying, consumes less resources and brings DirectX 11 to the table.

Three Available Versions:

  1. Windows 7 Home Premium: The basic edition, with all the looks, most of the functionality and DirectX 11.
  2. Windows 7 Professional: If you want the virtual XP mode, you’ll need at least the Professional edition. Also required if you want to backup to a network, using the built-in backup mode in Windows.
  3. Windows 7 Ultimate: To help protect data on your PC and portable storage devices against loss or theft with BitLocker and to work and switch between 35 languages.

OEM vs Retail:

The OEM version allows you to only install it once on a computer. You cannot transfer the license to another computer in the future and you do not receive support from Microsoft. It’s the same type of license you get when you get Windows on a desktop or laptop that you buy from Dell, HP and such. It’s less expensive, but gives less flexibility. Ideal if you intend on keeping your computer for many years.

The Retail version is the full version, which allows you to transfer the license to another computer in the future and you can call Microsoft if you need any form of support. Ideal if you intend on upgrading/changing your computer down the road.

Other than that, you get the same features on both, only the license differs. The price between the two differs obviously.

OEM Versions:

  1. Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit OEM – $100
  2. Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit OEM – $140
  3. Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit OEM – $175

Retail Versions:

  1. Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Retail – $180
  2. Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Retail – $258
  3. Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate Retail – $276

Linux

A lot of people these days boots more than one OS. Linux is a wonderful choice: powerful, cool, and cheap. Take your pick of distributions and have fun! For Fedora, Ubuntu, Debian, Slackware, and Mandrake, try Distrowatch.com, Cheapbytes.com, LinuxQuestions.org or one of the many others.

While Linux does not offer the wide compatibility of Windows with video games, gaming on Linux is still possible, through projects such as Wine, Cedega and Crossover. For more on the topic of Linux Gaming, I invite you to read this excellent article from AnandTech: Linux Gaming: Are we there yet?

What about Word processing, Excel and other Windows-based programs that you need? Linux being an open platform, there are many free alternatives that will answer your needs. For Word/Excel and such, try OpenOffice.

Cost: Free

Conclusion

What do you think of this updated version of the $1250 Gaming PC?

Let me know what you think by leaving a comment below.

Building this system?

Do you need a guide on how to build a computer or do you have some questions?

Consult our: FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer

Also, if this is your first build, here are 10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders to get you started.

Finally, if your newly built computer won’t start, I invite you to read Help me: Why won’t my newly assembled PC start or boot?

Don’t miss out on the new models/updates to the Gaming PCs!

Make sure not to miss the next Gaming PC Builds that will be published in the next days/weeks by getting them for free via RSS or E-mail. If the fact that you’ll be receiving outstanding custom Gaming PC designs for free is not enough to convince you, here are 7 Reasons to Get Our Posts Via RSS or E-Mail For Free!

Category: Gaming PC

About Mathieu Bourgie: Hi, nice to meet you! I’m a computer enthusiast with 10 years of experience in building, fixing and modifying computers. I opened up my first computer case over a decade ago, to see what it was made of, how it works and over time I’ve developed a great passion for computers, especially for all the hardware and bits that makes it happen. In the month of April 2008, I launched Hardware Revolution and ... Read more at my about page. .

  • Caelum
    Mathieu,

    Your article inspired me to get a new PC after using a 9400 build for too long and was tired of being behind in the video games I played so much. Since I have some spare cash this looked like a huge upgrade for me but I live in Toronto and the Newegg.ca prices vary as I'm sure you know and the rough total for everything (with GST/Shipping) is $1,692.34 WIndows 7 included I was wondering if this is still a solid build for the price or should I just shoot for the $1500 dollar gaming PC since I'm spending a good chunk, or should I just wait all-together since the new ATI 6xxx series are soon to come out and that means lower prices on cards under it (I think).

    Also, I've had my monitor an Acer AL2016W for awhile it's not a 1080P HD obviously but I was wondering how important is it to pick up a new monitor and if I could just pick one up later, could it be dangerous potentially?

    Thanks for keeping this great site updated!
    Caelum
  • Caelum,

    I also happen to live in Canada (Montreal, QC if you wonder), so I can suggest you a few alternative places to shop at, so you can find the best prices.

    www.ncix.com
    www.bestdirect.ca
    www.tigerdirect.ca

    You can also use a price comparator, such as http://www.pricebat.ca/ to find other sources. Just make sure to double-check customers feedbacks before ordering from somewhere you never heard of before ;)

    That should help you save a nice chunk of cash hopefully.

    I can also tell you that the performance difference between the $1250 and $1500 Gaming PC isn't that big. The main difference is that the $1500 Gaming PC will be easier/less expensive to upgrade down the road, say in 1, 2 or 3 years from now.

    I wouldn't wait on the Radeon 6xxx series, since what I heard is that they will be doing a bottom from top release, meaning that they will start with lower-end parts this year and finish with the mainstream/higher-end parts early next year. Then again, these are rumors, take them with a grain of salt.

    Your monitor, with its resolution of 1680 x 1050, isn't a problem at all and you'll be able to use it with this build. The only problem that I personally see is that this build might be way overkill for your needs.

    Something like the $850 Gaming PC would be more appropriate in my opinion. The single GTX 460 1GB in that build will have no problem handling games at a resolution of 1680 x 1050. Then, in a year, two or three even, you can simply upgrade your video card for a newer Radeon or Geforce model.

    Of course, the $1250 or the $1500 won't require upgrades for a while, but considering that they are $400 and $650 more than the $850 Build, I personnally think that you're better off with the $850 Build now and put a $300-$400 aside for next year or in two years and simply upgrade your video card then, if you feel the need for an upgrade of course.

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • gkunnen
    I was reading a Newegg review of the Gigabyte GTX 460, that stated in SLI, there were over-heating issues associated with both cards. The reviewer suggested it had something to do with the positioning of the cooling fans. The reviewer also suggested the use of the EVGA GTX 460's due to their external exhausts. I was wondering what your thoughts are on this, as I am considering building a rig similar to what you have described above. Thank you!
  • gkunnen,

    Considering the airflow in the HAF 922 case, with the massive 200mm side fan bringing in cool air, this shouldn't be a problem in this build. Also, if you read more reviews of the Gigabyte GTX 460 on NewEgg, you'll see other reviewers running two in SLI without any problem.

    However, if you want to be on the safe side, cards with a closed design that exhaust the heat outside of the case (such as some EVGA cards) and a motherboard with more spacing between the two main PCI-Express slots (Such as the MSI P55A-G55 or the ASUS P7P55D EVO, are what I'd go with.

    In any case, I'd take a deeper look into this and I'll edit my recommendations for this build if I see that there's a clear need for it.

    Thanks for bringing this to my attention.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Chuck
    As a person with very limited knowledge, I want to ask if it is possible to substitute a GTX 480 instead of using the GTX 460 in SLI following this build. That was the only section with no substitute or alternative.

    Is it possible and if so/not, why?

  • Chuck
    I ask because I think it would be better getting the 480 now, while still having the option to SLI in the future with another 480 when prices go down.
  • Chuck,

    Yes, you could use the GTX 480 in this build, I simply didn't recommend it since as a stand-alone card, it costs nearly as much as two GTX 460 while offering no where as much performance, but what you intend to do makes plenty of sense.

    However, you'll want to do a few modifications to this build so that it's ready to support two GTX 480 in SLI.

    First of all, you'll want a motherboard with more spacing between the two main PCI-Express slots, such as the MSI P55A-G55, the ASUS P7P55D EVO, the GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD4P or the ASUS Maximus III Formula. The reason for this is that you want some space between the cards so that they can "breath" and not overheat.

    Also, seeing as two GTX 480 in SLI pull a LOT of power, you'll need to upgrade the power supply to the SeaSonic S12D 850W.

    Other than that, you'll be good to go.

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Chuck
    Thank you. It is nice to know that this will work. I'll probably go the 460 route, but it's nice to know that getting the 480's could work too.
  • Irfan
    How important is the inclusion of USB 3.0/SATA 6.0Gb/s on a motherboard for future-proofing?

    I plan on getting a SSD (boot drive) and two hard drives in RAID 0. If I choose to go with the Maximus III GENE; will this limit performance with SSDs?
  • Irfan,

    First of all, if you intend to use two hard drives in RAID 0, I'd highly recommend using the right SSD.

    Why? Because when you use RAID (no matter if it's on the hard drives, SSDs or both), the SSD(s) will lose TRIM support.

    TRIM helps the SSD keep top-notch performance, so without it, most SSDs performance horribly degrade over time, unless you have an highly resilient SSD that has its own "TRIM"-like internal optimization.

    My recommendation would be use either one of these, in this order:

    1. A SandForce based SSD, such as Corsair Force series or OCZ Vertex 2/Agility 2 series.
    2. Toshiba controller based SSDs (Mostly some Kingston models).
    3. Any Intel SSD.

    Performance with any of these 3 choices will remain stellar, while performance on another SSD will degrade over time.

    For more information on this, make sure to read The Best Hard Drives and SSDs For Your Money article, most specifically, the "TRIM with RAID" sub-section.

    Also, keep in mind that prior to OS installation, you need to set RAID correctly on your drives. Specifically:
    You need to set SATA as RAID in the BIOS and configure your RAID controller utility so that
    the SSD is a non-RAID disk, while the hard drives are RAID disks. Check your
    motherboard manual for details on how to do this.

    Right now, using a Maximus III GENE motherboard won't limit the performance of your SSD, since the only SSD that could benefit from SATA 6.0GB/s is the Crucial C300, which is not recommended for a RAID setup. Besides, while it has the highest sequential transfer rates, its overall performance is topped by SandForce controller based SSDs, such as the OCZ Agility 2/Vertex 2 and Corsair Force series of SSDs.

    However, with the next batch of SSDs, SATA 3.0Gb/s will surely become a bottleneck.

    In short, for now you'd be good with the Maximus III Gene. However, if you intend to upgrade your SSD down the road to a faster model, before upgrading your motherboard/system, I'd get a motherboard with SATA 6.0Gb/s support.

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Irfan
    What's you opinion on the ASUS P7P55D-E Pro LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX?

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131621
  • Irfan,

    It's pretty much the same as the ASUS P7P55D Pro that I recommend, except with an effective USB 3.0/SATA 6.0Gb/s implantation.

    That would most probably be the best motherboard if you want to use Crossfire/SLI support without losing USB 3.0 and SATA 6.0Gb/s while doing so.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Dan Adrian
    Good morning Mathieu,
    my name is Dan and I love your website. Last night I built your $1250 gaming rig, choosing to upgrade the PSU to the Seagate 850W and the RAM to 2 Corsair XMS 1.65V 2GB DIMMs. Also, I opted for an Intel 160GB SSD after experiencing a dramatic performance boost from installing a 40gb Intel SSD on my laptop.
    Everything started up fine last night and I could see the option to get into the BIOS on the monitor (the 21.5" ASUS you suggested), so I know the video cards are working. My concern is that the LED lights on the motherboard lit up red (what ATX refers to as CRAZY voltage) when the board was on, and one continued to flash red even with the computer turned off. I shutdown right away, as it was late and I had to go to work soon. I have read the ATX manual and believe the lights that are lit up red correspond to the DRAM bus voltage and the PCH voltage.
    I want to be able to load the OS and continue progressing with the computer after work today, but I fear damaging any of the components before I really get to use them and see what their capabilities.
    I would like to know if I am safe to proceed installing the OS and checking the BIOS settings with these red lights lit and if they are supposed to be lit red on startup, with all setting set to factory default (out of the box). Is the red light lit because the RAM has a higher voltage than most RAM? The ATX manual states DRAM should be between 1.35-1.60v normally, 1.61-1.78v is high voltage, and 1.80v+ is crazy. PCH should be 1.00-1.15v normally, 1.16-1.20v is high voltage, and 1.219v+ is crazy. According to this, I would understand if the DRAM light was yellow, but since it is red I am concerned.
    If you could maybe point me in the correct direction or tell me if this is normal, I would greatly appreciate it.
    Thank you for maintaining such a wonderful website! I would have never even attempted to build this computer if I had not found the motivation to do so from visiting your site, so thanks for the motivation and I thank you in advance for your response!
  • Dan,

    I know what you mean with the SSD, I'm planning to get a laptop later this year and a SSD upgrade is definitely on my list.

    Regarding the LEDs light litting up due to excessive voltage, there would appear that there is an issue with some Maximus III Gene motherboards where auto-voltage settings would set too high of a voltage.

    To resolve this, simply adjust your voltage settings manually in the BIOS, for your RAM (1.65v), PCH (1.00V) and anything else that lights up an LED, other than the obvious RAM setting, which should be yellow like you said, due to 1.65v (Nothing to worry about though, standard is 1.50v, but 1.65v is required by some RAM, nothing dangerous.)

    Consult your motherboard manual if you're not sure how to adjust voltages.

    Good thing that you're double-checking this, since too high voltage on the RAM can actually damage the CPU over a long period of time.

    Glad to hear that my website inspired you to build your PC and that you've nearly got it working properly. Best of luck with the OS installation, remember to set your boot priority correctly (Make the optical drive boot first to begin with, so you can install Windows from the disk, then set the hard drive first, so you can boot Windows from it.) for everything to work properly.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Dan Adrian
    Adjusting the voltage worked like a charm, thank you! The motherboard automatically overclocked the i5 to run at 3.36ghz, which was why the voltage was so high. I went into the BIOS, dialed it down to 3.06ghz and the red LED problem was solved.

    This build is INCREDIBLE. After changing to speed mode during a gun fight in Crysis, with all settings at 'VERY HIGH' and experiencing no chug whatsoever, I felt like I was playing the game for the very first time again! Starcraft II on all 'ULTRA' settings is beautiful and chug-free, even when a fleet of 12 Protoss Carriers launch 8 Interceptors each on a swarmful of 100 retaliating Zerg.

    I never realized, until building this computer, I hadn't completely experienced Supreme Commander & Sup Com 2, Dragon Age: Origins & Awakenings, Sins of a Solar Empire, Mass Effect 2, ...you get the drift.

    THANK YOU for the inspiration, motivation, and all the detailed info. I'm saying thanks via Paypal today in the hopes you keep the same great builds and reviews coming (and if you're reading this, you know EXACTLY what I am talking about).
  • Nick A
    Hi Mathieu, following this column I'm taking the plunge and purchasing a version of this machine. Could you please glance over the components and let me know in case I'm missing anything or if there are any better options for the money I'm looking at spending? I'd really appreciate it. It hopefully should only take you a sec b/c it's nigh nigh identical to the one above. Sorry for any excessive handholding, it's just the first time I've done this and it's a bit of cash.

    http://secure.newegg.com/Shopping/ShoppingCart.aspx?Submit=view

    A few random comments about my choices:
    - I opted for the slight upgrade in the RAM b/c it seemed worth the money.
    - I would love to get USB 3.0 if possible.
    - I knew I wanted a blue-ray player.
    - in addition to the above I have a 320 GB hard-drive to back my stuff onto. I will arrange the 2 1 TB hard disks in RAID 0.

    Thanks again for all your help!
  • Nick,

    Glad to hear that my article convinced you to take the plunge. I'm sure that you'll be thrilled with the results.

    It would be my pleasure to take a look at your components list and help you out, however the link that you left leads to an empty shopping cart, so if you please could double-check it, that would greatly help.

    Thank you,
    Mathieu
  • Nick A
    That would be a problem. Weird. Here it is the old-fashioned way, although I really wish I could just put in the links b/c it'd be easier. Thanks so much.

    Case: COOLER MASTER HAF 932 RC-932-KKN1-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Comput
    Item #: N82E16811119160
    $129.99
    Hard Drives: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5"
    Item #: N82E16822152185
    (x2, in RAID 0, I also have a 300 GB harddrive for back-up)
    $149.98
    Graphics: GIGABYTE GV-N460OC-1GI GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI
    Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card (x2, Crossfire)
    Item #: N82E16814125333
    $459.98
    ($229.99 each)
    Motherboard: ASUS P7P55D-E Pro LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel
    Item #: N82E16813131621
    $179.99
    CPU: Intel Core i7-870 Lynnfield 2.93GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor
    Item #: N82E16819115213
    $289.99
    Power Supply: SeaSonic S12D 850 Silver 850W ATX12V V2.3/EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS
    SILVER Certified Active PFC Power Supply
    Item #: N82E16817151083
    $119.99
    RAM: G.SKILL ECO Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
    Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO
    Item #: N82E16820231321
    $102.99
    Monitor: ASUS VE246H Black 24" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor
    Item #: N82E16824236082
    $219.99
    Blu-Ray/DVD: LG Black 10X Blu-ray Burner - Bulk SATA WH10LS30 LightScribe Support
    Item #: N82E16827136181
    $109.99
  • Nick A
    EDIT: after reading a series of reviews I think I might shell out the extra cash for the Cooler Master HAF X case. The system is getting pretty pricey at this point, but what're you gonna do? And, the case should last me a very long time.
  • Nick,

    I just took a look at your list and quite frankly, I don't have much to say about it, other than good job, as everything looks great to me. Everything is compatible and you've got one heck of a solid Gaming PC that will last you years.

    Regarding the case: I personally don't think that the HAF X is worth $60 over the HAF 932, considering what it brings more than the HAF 932, but that's just my own opinion, the decision is yours.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Shawn
    Mathieu,

    Great website!

    Thanks to your advice I've decided to build my first PC. The parts will be arriving in a few days. I upgraded the mobo to the Asus P7P55D Pro and added the Cooler Master Red Case Fan (would the Cooler Master Hyper 212 be considered overkill?). And to think I originally intended on building a $600-$700 unit!

    I made my own modification by adding the Corsair CMPSU 850TX instead of the 750TX. A combo deal on newegg made it too attractive to pass up. I'm curious, I also saw a combo deal for the Asus P7P55D-E Pro and was wondering how it was different from the one you suggested. Also, I noticed the monitor comes with built-in speakers so passed on the added speakers (for now).

    I was wondering whether or not this system will have wireless capabilities? I'm guessing that comes from the mobo? Do I have to worry about any compatability issues regarding the mouse and keyboard and do you have any suggestions for a wireless mouse and keyboard?

    In addition to your recommended hardware, will I need any additional cables or miscellaneous components in order to get everything up and running? Lastly, any additional hardware modifications if I wanted to add a TV tuner and/or a second hard drive (ie. Blue-ray) in the future?

    Thanks again for all your help. Well worth a donation I would say!



  • Shawn,

    Glad to hear that I've convinced you to build your first PC. I'm sure that you'll be proud of a job well done when you'll be using it and looking at it ;)

    For the Hyper 212 + cooler, are you going to overclock? If no, then it's overkill, unless you consider the stock cooler too noisy, in which case the Hyper 212+ is an excellent silent alternative.

    The difference between the P7P55D Pro and the P7P55D-E Pro is that the "-E" version is the higher-end version, with the two SATA 6.0 Gbps, two USB 3.0 and one E-SATA ports that the non-E version doesn't have. Whether that's worth $10 or not to you is up to you.

    Corsair 850TX with a combo deal? Very nice and you're pretty much sure that you won't need a power supply upgrade for many many years.

    To have wireless capabilities, you'll need to add either a PCI wireless card such as this one or a USB 2.0 stick. A PCI card will have better reception and transfer rates though.

    Wireless internet and wireless mouse/keyboard working simultaneously isn't a problem at all, each device picks a different channel, which avoids interference.

    While there are just too many choices, styles and since your personal tastes are probably different than mines, I'd suggest that you look yourself for a keyboard/mouse. I can recommend going with Logitech or Microsoft though, they both make excellent products, at various price points.

    As to whether you need extra cables and such, could you please list me the components that you're going to use? I'd rather just double-check.

    "any additional hardware modifications if I wanted to add a TV tuner and/or a second hard drive (ie. Blue-ray)"

    For the TV tuner, as long as you have a free PCI or PCI-Express 1x slot, it's a simple add-on card. If you don't have a free slot, a USB 2.0 stick TV Tuner will do.

    "second hard drive (ie. Blue-ray)"
    Not sure what you meant here, so I'll cover both:
    Hard Drive: Just make sure you have a spare SATA cable and a free 3.5" internal bay.
    Blu-Ray: Just make sure you have a spare SATA cable and a free 5.25" external bay.

    Any of this (tv tuner, hard drive, blu-ray) is a simple matter of shutting down the PC, unplugging the power supply, switching off the PSU, open case, add part, close case, replug/switch back on PSU, restart PC, enjoy.

    Hope that helps, let me know your components list so I can double-check it, let me know if you have any other questions and need help with the build.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Corbin
    Hello MathieuB,

    I was always wondering, can you sli with two different video cards. I'm assuming not because I've never heard or seen it. But say I wanted a GTX 480 and a GTX 460 in sli, would It work?

    Also, are you ever going to make a "Best Motherboards for your money" topic.
  • Corbin,

    No, you cannot SLI two different models. You can Crossfire two different Radeon cards, like a Radeon HD 5770 and a Radeon HD 5830, although the faster card will slow down to match the slower card. Not exactly an ideal situation.

    Regarding making a "Best Motherboards for your money" article, I will at some point, but anytime soon.

    The thing is, the motherboard is one of the, if not the most complex component in the PC.

    On top of that, you currently have three platforms available, the sockets AM3 (AMD), LGA 1156 (Intel) and LGA1366(Intel).

    On top of that? Intel is expected to update their platforms toward the end of 2010, early 2011, making any guide that I would make now pretty much useless.

    Basically, such a guide will be very time-intensive to research and write, so I'll most probably wait until Intel release their new platforms and that AMD confirms whether their own new CPU will support current AM3 motherboard or not, in order to make sure that it's relevant and worth all the time that it's going to take to research and write.

    For now, I rather focus on catching up and updating the builds and Best Of articles. I'm also working on a new server and design for Hardware Revolution. Finally, I also reply to many comments/e-mails everyday.

    Put that together and I'm sure that you'll understand that I'm already busy enough to not want to take on a huge article a few months before a major Intel platform update and spread myself too thin.

    Hope you understand.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • FinallyICanPlayCrysis
    Mathieu,

    I am strongly considering building this as my first desktop (I've been living off of a laptop for 5 years, although its graphics card has kept up surprisingly well!). I just have one problem, with the RAID status of the HD's.

    Since my Wife will be using the computer as well for basic word processing and stuff, I've been considering keeping both drives in RAID 1 for reliability, or perhaps buying two more and doing a RAID 1+0 to also keep some performance.

    Does switching from the suggested RAID 0 to RAID 1 impact performance significantly on this system (gaming, specifically)? My searches have turned up conflicting results. Some say it is only a 1 to 2 second loading time difference. Which I wouldn't notice, since I've been living off a pretty slow computer for quite a while.

    The motherboard is spec'd for RAID 1+0, at least to my knowledge, so if I decide to go this more expensive route (perhaps 4 500GB) am I correct in saying this system is compatible?

    Thanks for the help, and, in a week, I'll be pulling the trigger to order this system and build my first CPU!

    -Sean
  • Sean,

    Two modern high-performance hard drives like the ones that I recommend here, even in RAID1, will blow away your current 5-years old+ laptop hard drive performance by any measure.

    Putting four of them in RAID 1+0 will indeed decrease loading times, specifically on larger games that take longer to load to begin with. Windows and other apps will also load faster.

    By how much is hard to say, since that depends on the games that you play, but I wouldn't expect a major drop in loading times, just a few seconds at most. Considering where you're coming from, RAID-1 for reliability will already be a huge jump in performance compared to your laptop hard drive.

    So, in my opinion, RAID 1+0 and the two extra drives aren't worth the cost considering what you'll get for it. If you do want a big drop in loading times, I would look into getting a SSD, although those don't come cheap. Something like a SSD with the OS, main apps and games on it and the rest on the regular hard drives would do. Keep an eye open, as I should be updating "The Best Hard Drives & SSDs For Your Money" article tonight.

    On a separate note, I wouldn't rely solely on RAID-1 for reliability. An external hard drive/usb thumb drive (even better if it's stored away from the main PC, accessible via a network or over the web) is desirable, in the case your PC gets damaged or worse (power surge, fire, theft, etc.). Besides, while RAID-1 reduces the chance of data loss, it is not infallible, hence why I also recommend other means of backups (Backups on DVDs is also an option for example), on top of RAID 1.

    In the case you do decide to go with 4 drives in RAID 1+0 (1+0 is the same as 10 if you wonder), yes, this system, specifically the motherboard and case, is compatible with this. The motherboard supports up to six SATA devices, includes six SATA cables, while the case supports up to five internal 3.5" devices (Hard Drives or SSDs) and five external 5.25" devices (Optical Drives).

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • IcanfinallyplayCrysis
    (PS, forgot to mention. Laptop has a 70 GB HD. Yes, 70 GB. Oh, man, am I looking forward to 1 TB.)
  • Sean,

    Yeah, I know what you mean by backing up on an old computer, it is a pain. Although you should know that backing up these days can be easy, with automatic backups that run in the background without bugging you. There are various software to do that, although Windows 7 integrated backup system is pretty good (just need to activate/configure it)

    I LOL'ed at the CAD and Engineering desktop. Of course, nothing like a professional desktop for "work" right? =D But yeah, I can understand the need for that, justifying the price of a PC can be tough, especially when someone doesn't understand the difference between less and more expensive parts.

    Take care,
    Mathieu

    P.S. If you think that having 1TB of storage will be fun, I can tell you that it's nothing next to the sheer increase in responsiveness and speed that you will experience on your new PC ;)

    Although, I remember moving from 160GB (laptop) to 2TB (Two 1TB in RAID 0 in my workstation) and the feeling of freedom that came with it. Having a lot of space to work with is just fun.
  • FinallyIcanplayCrysis
    Thanks Mathieu, that is exactly the answer I was looking for. For now, I will probably do the 2x 1 TB drives in RAID 1, and perhaps give in to the suggestion of backing things up every once and a while. I've avoided it until now since my poor laptop does everything at a snails pace (FYI Dell Latitude 1.66 GHz dual core, some old 512MB NVIDIA card, 2 GB RAM, which, 5 years ago, was great!). I guess the bonus of learning how to put together a computer is that you can also upgrade it easily later down the road!

    I'll be looking forward to your updated drive thread, as SSD are quite interesting, although I am already having a fun time justifying the price of my cough cough "CAD and Engineering" desktop to my wife. Since two years ago a 1TB HD was ridiculous, I'm guessing these SSD's will really come into their own and be worth it (vs price) in another two years.

    Thanks again, I am extremely grateful for your help! Impressive site, which I will highly recommend to others.

    -Sean
  • gwill2112
    Great site Mathieu! I love how you a) keep your builds updated with the latest & greatest, and b) how you provide so many upgrade ideas for your builds, and good reasons why you would want to look into said upgrades.

    Question on this build: any particular reason you choose the gigabyte version of the video card? Looking at Newegg, I see the same card made by many different companies, all for pretty much the same price. Is it just personal preference/experience that you choose Gigabyte? Doing some research, it seems that maybe they run cooler & quieter than the other brands. Is this true?
  • gwill2112,

    First of all, thank you for your kind words regarding my builds, I'm glad to hear that you like them. If you have any suggestions to improve them, let me know, I like to listen to my readers ;)

    Regarding your question: I always pick a specific brand for specific reasons, not because I prefer a brand over another. While I am human and may prefer a brand or another for some reasons, I do my best to stay neutral and independent when I recommend products and I recommend them based on their merits.

    I picked the Gigabyte brand of the GTX 460 for the following reasons:
    1. At $230 per card, it's currently at the lowest price point.
    2. The Cooling system: With its dual fan system, it cools better and more silently compared to other cooling systems featured on the GTX 460, two important factors when it comes to picking a video card, especially when you set up a SLI system.
    3. Gigabyte as a brand usually makes excellent reliable products.
    4. The reviews for it on NewEgg are excellent, something that does affect my choice when I pick a specific brand for a product, as customers who bought and are using a product that I'm considering are one of the best source of information to know whether a product is a flop or a success.

    I hope this answers your question, let me know if you have other questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Nick A
    I want to echo the praise of others. I have decided just recently to forge in and build a machine for the first time, and this site has proven the most helpful (it's you and BitTech that have helped the most, in case you're curious). I am going to put together a version of this machine w/ a couple of the suggested upgrades -- imitation being the sincerest form of flattery -- but I had a couple of questions. If anyone can lend a hand I'd appreciate it.

    My plan is to follow the build above, except for:
    - Case: Cooler Master HAF 932
    - Hard Drives: 2x 1 TB drives in RAID 0
    - Optical Drive: LG 10X Blu-ray Burner SATA
    - Power Supply: SeaSonic S12D 850W 80PLUS SILVER Certified

    2 questions. First, I was planning on getting the COOLER MASTER 200mm Red LED Case Fan for additional cooling, on the theory that for an extra $20 more cooling would always be good. Is that still a decent plan if I am using the Cooler Master HAF 932?

    Second, do you have any opinions about this larger Asus monitor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236052? It's Newegg reviews are solid, so I imagine it's a good choice, but I know so little about monitors.
  • Nick A,

    First of all, thank you for the kind words about the site, I'm glad that it was useful to you so far.

    Regarding your questions:
    1- Unlike the HAF 922, the HAF 932 already comes with a large side fan, meaning that you don't need to buy one for the HAF 932.

    2- That ASUS monitor is pretty similar to the one I recommend except one critical point: Its response time is 5ms instead of 2ms on the one that I recommend.

    Problem with an higher response time on LCDs is that you get a form of lagging, commonly known as "ghosting", which the previous image/picture lags behind the new one, which can seriously be annoying in fast-paced games or TV/movies.

    While 5ms is generally "good enough" for most situations, you're better off with 2ms, which will end up costing you about the same.

    If you want to stick to an ASUS, but with a 2ms reaction time, here's what I recommend:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236082

    You get the 2ms reaction time, VGA, DVI and HDMI inputs as well as low power consumption thanks to its Energy Star 5.0 rating (< 35W under usage, compared to < 60W on older models. 25W less power usage ain't bad at all.)

    Hope that helps you out, let me know if you have other questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Nick A
    Great, thanks. I figured it was as you said w/ the fans, but I wanted to double check.

    Thanks so much for the monitor info, that's the sort of stuff I had no clue about. The one you linked to looks great, and has some good reviews behind it, so I'll probably pick that up when I have the chance to actually get this whole thing together. Thanks again.
  • Anman
    That power supply is quad rails and can only 25 amps on the +12V rail! Yikes! You'd be much better off spending an extra $15 and getting a single rail corsair 750TX: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006
  • What are you talking about? The power supply can deliver up to 56A (672W) on the 12V lines in total. The 25A that you referring is a limit PER rail. 25A at 12V being 300 Watts (More than anything will pull), this won't be a problem, unless you could somehow plug everything on the same cable, which is clearly impossible by design.

    Multiple rails vs single rail is the same exact thing, except in very-high 1000W+ power supplies, it's just good old marketing at its best ;)
  • Anman
    It's much cheaper for companies to make quad/tri/dual rail power supplies then have a single rail pushing out 60A.

    Also after the mail in rebate on the Corsair PSU it's cheaper than the Antec PSU.

    Besides which in the EggXpert Tiered List of PSUs Antec Earthwatts > 700W is listed as Tier 4.

    I am sort of surprised that the 460 wouldn't use over 25 amps, but you seem to be correct after I did a bit of research.
  • "It's actually cheaper to make a single +12V rail PSU because you forgo all of the components used in splitting up and limiting each rail."

    I highly suggest that you read this article, I'm sure that you'll find it interesting and learn a thing or two about single vs multiple rail PSUs.

    Prices on the parts are always before MIR, since what you pay at the checkout is the price with the MIR. Not to mention the long delay before you receive said MIR. If you receive it...

    Yeah, the GTX 460 is based on the GF104 chip, which is much more efficient and consume way less power compared to the GF100 found in the GTX 470 and GTX 480, hence why 25amps is plenty enough for it.

    I'm surprised that the Antec 750W would be listed as Tier 4 in the EggXpert Tiered List of PSUs, but considering that I recommend that list in my own PSU article, based on its reliable information, I won't doubt it. I'll take a look and see what I can replace the Antec 750W Earthwatts PSU with.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Anman
    Thanks for the interesting read. I'm glad that you listen to your readers input too.

    I just referenced the Corsair PSU since they make quality ones (All Tier 1 or 2) however there are some other nice 750W ones. (Such as XFX's Black Edition 750W Modular which is Tier 1)

    Thanks again though for listening.
    Regards,
    Anman
  • Alright, the Antec EarthWatts 750W has been replaced by the Corsair CMPSU-750TX. Considering the current prices (the Antec went up $5 to $105) and how the Corsair is superior in many regards (60A vs 56A on the 12V, higher tier on the EggXpert Tiered List of PSUs, only $5 more), it was the logical choice.

    Then again, for $10 more, the SeaSonic S12D 850W is awfully tempting, with its higher wattage and efficiency, while being in the same tier 2 as the Corsair.
blog comments powered by Disqus