January 13, 2010 | Comments Comments

Hardware Revolution’s $500 Gaming Build: Version 1.1

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Cooler_Master_Elite_310_SilverYesterday, I started to publish and update our Gaming PC Builds Designs, starting with Hardware Revolution’s $400 Gaming Build: Version 2.0.

We are continuing today with an updated $500 Gaming Build Design and we’ll keep going at it for the next days/weeks, as I update all/add Gaming PC Builds. Needless to say, if you haven’t done so already, make sure to subscribe for free via RSS or E-mail to not miss the future posts.

If the fact that you’ll be receiving outstanding custom Gaming PC designs for free is not enough to convince you, here are 7 Reasons to Subscribe.

About the $500 Gaming Build:

  1. It will handle gaming, with modern titles, at a resolution up to 1680 x 1050 (Up to 20-22″ monitor)
  2. It will be easily upgradeable in the future, with:
    • PCI-Express 2.0 16x slot for the video card.
    • AM3 socket to support more powerful and future AMD CPUs.
    • 1600MHz 1.5V DDR3 RAM.

This version (1.1) compared to the previous version of the $500 Gaming Build:

This version of the $500 Build is more of an evolution than a revolution with the hardware, hence why I’m calling it Version 1.1, instead of 2.0.

What parts have changed?
The Motherboard, RAM, case and power supply.

  • The motherboard change gives you: A PCI-Express 2.0 16x slot as opposed to PCI-Express 1.0 16x, a full-size ATX instead of Micro-Atx, giving you more space to work with, especially for expansion cards. You also get more USB ports and other ports compared to before.
  • The RAM is now clocked at 1600MHz and only requires 1.5V to run, making it more user-friendly.
  • The case and power supply are now sold separately, allowing for more flexibility in the choices that you have and allowing for a more solid power supply. This will also help avoid the out of stock situation that happened with the previous $500 Gaming Build case/power supply combo.

So, as you can tell, you don’t get a big performance bump compared to the previous $500 Build, but rather a more balanced build that is more future-proof, as in it’s more suited for upgrades, whether it’s a CPU or Video Card upgrade.

Computer Builds FAQs:

I often get questions such as:

  • Who are you to tell me which parts to choose?
  • Can you suggest me a step by step guide to build a computer?
  • Why should I build a PC instead of buying one in a store?
  • And many more…

You will find the answers to all of these questions and more in this article: FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer

Also, if this is your first build, here are 10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders to get you started.

$500 Gaming computer hardware parts recommendations, short version:

  • In Bold, you’ll find my recommendations, with a price that fits the overall budget.
  • In Italic, you’ll find the best possible upgrades, that is the parts that offers the best bang for your buck.
  • In simple terms, if you want a more powerful CPU or video card, pick it from the list of recommended upgrades that are in Italic.
  • All upgrades are compatible with the rest of the system, as well as other upgrades, meaning that you can choose one or many upgrades without a problem.
  • If upgrades just don’t cut it, visit the Gaming PCs page, where you’ll find our other gaming computer custom build designs.
Components Make, Model and Specifications
Price
CPU/Processor AMD Athlon II X3 425 Rana 2.7GHz Triple-Core AM3 95W
AMD Athlon II X3 435 Rana 2.9GHz Triple-Core AM3 95W
AMD Athlon II X4 630 Propus 2.8GHz Quad-Core AM3 95W
$76
$87
$113
Motherboard ASRock M3A770DE: Socket AM3, AMD 770 Chipset, ATX
GIGABYTE GA-MA770T-UD3P: Socket AM3, AMD 770 Chipset, ATX
$60
$80
RAM G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 1.5V DDR3 1600 Dual Channel $94
Video Card Radeon HD 5750 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 DirectX 11
Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 DirectX 11
$135
$165
Hard Drive Western Digital 320GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s
Western Digital 500GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s
Western Digital 640GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s
W.D. Caviar Black 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s
$48
$56
$70
$80
Optical Drive LITE-ON Black 24X SATA CD/DVD Burner $24
Power Supply Antec NEO ECO 400W 80 PLUS Active PFC (No Power Cord)
Antec NEO ECO 520W 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC (No Power Cord)
6 ft. Computer AC power cable

10 ft. AC Power Cable
10 ft. Right-Angle AC Power Cord
$40
$60
$3
$7
$9
Case Cooler Master Elite 310 (Black/Silver) – 1x 120mm fan
Cooler Master Elite 310 (Black/Red) – 1x 120mm fan
Cooler Master Elite 310 (Black/Blue) – 1x 120mm fan
Cooler Master Elite 310 (Black/Orange) – 1x 120mm fan
Antec Three Hundred Illusion – 3x 120mm 1x 140mm fans
$40
$40
$40
$45
$60
Cooling AMD CPU Stock Cooler included with CPU and Case Fans
ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 92mm CPU Cooler
ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 Thermal Compound
Rosewill 120mm Case Fan
Scythe 120mm “Slipstream” Case Fan
Free
$30
$8
$4
$9
Sound 8 channels sound card: Integrated on the motherboard Free
Network Ethernet RJ-45 10/100/1000 Mbps: Integrated on the motherboard Free
Total price Not Including OS, Shipping nor handling. Within -/+ 5% of Budget
$517

Is this the right type of PC for me?

If you’re looking for a PC to play video games, you’re at the right place. If this is not what you’re looking for, check out our other Computer Systems instead.

About Gaming PCs:

Gaming Computers are all about playing video games. Every year, new video games that pushes the boundaries of visual effects are released and demand more and more power from your computer to run.

This is why our Gaming Builds Designs focus both on current performance for today’s games, as well as being ready to upgrade, to be ready to handle future games. For Gaming Builds Designs, the majority of the budget goes to the Video Card and the Processor to ensure high performance in video games, as well as a solid power supply with a case with good cooling abilities, to ensure reliability.

Upgrades will usually focus on the processor and video card for enhanced performance, as well as on the power supply and cooling, to enhance overclocking capabilities. You may choose to upgrade the hard drive for more capacity, or change the case to get one that matches your personal preferences, such as look, cooling, size, etc.

$500 Gaming Computer Hardware parts recommendations, detailed version:

Motherboard:

ASRock M3A770DE

ASRock M3A770DE AM3 AMD 770 ATX

A basic, yet reliable motherboard at a great price that supports everything in this system. Come with six USB ports, two of them being Hybrid E-SATA/USB ports, S/PDIF Out via Optical and Coaxial, two PS/2, Gigabit LAN and 8 Channels audio on the back.

Two PCI-Express 2.0 16X (Green at 16X, Orange at 4x), one PCI-Express 1X and three PCI slots, four SATA ports and the usual IDE port, etc.

If you wonder who is ASRock, they belong to ASUS. Simply put, they are their budget brand, offering the same reliability known from ASUS, but with lower prices.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. GIGABYTE GA-MA770T-UD3P: Socket AM3, AMD 770 Chipset, ATX – Based on the same chipset, the AMD 770, however this is board well known on Hardware Revolution, as it is the one that I recommend on most AMD AM3 builds. Why? Because it offers the perfect balance of performance, reliability and low price. If you don’t mind spending a bit more to get the peace of mind of going with a brand name, this is the way to go.

CPU:

AMD Athlon II X3 425 Rana 2.7GHz Triple-Core AM3 95W

AMD Athlon II X3 425 Rana 2.7GHz Triple-Core AM3 95W

The other contenders in the same price range would have been the Intel E5300 (2.6GHz $70) or the E6300 (2.8GHz). I picked the AMD Athlon II X3 425 over them for the following reason:

  • The AMD Athlon II X3 435 outperforms the E6300 in four out of four benchmarks. I’m sure that you can figure out that even if you take out a few FPS to account for the 200MHz difference between the Athlon II X3 425 (The one recommended) and the Athlon II X3 435 (The one in the benchmark), the X3 425 still comes out on top of the Pentium E6300.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. AMD Athlon II X3 435 Rana 2.9GHz Triple-Core AM3 95W – For $11 ($87) more, you get an extra 200Mhz.
  2. AMD Athlon II X4 630 Propus 2.8GHz Quad-Core AM3 95W For $37 ($113) more, you get an extra core and an extra 100MHz.

Video Card:

Radeon HD 5750

Radeon HD 5750 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 DirectX 11

The Radeon HD 5750 is AMD’s replacement for the Radeon HD 4850 and they did a great job with it. The Radeon HD 5750 consumes way less power, supports DirectX 11 for the new video games and has a 1GB of memory buffer, to handle games such as GTA: 4.

It is capable of handling the vast majority of games at 1680 x 1050 with high visual quality.

Finally, it is HDCP Ready and will handle Blu-Ray and other 1080p content playback, with audio over HDMI as well, no matter what kind of audio setup (2.1, 5.1, 7.1, etc.) you throw at it.

VS Nvidia video card:
The main competition from Nvidia at this price range is the Geforce GTS 250. Both cards perform on par, however, with its higher power consumption and lack of DirectX 11 support, it is hard to recommend the GTS 250 these days.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 DirectX 11 This one offers performance on the level of the 4870 1gb, while consuming way less power at idle (15W!) and at load (108W) than any card offering this level of performance thanks to the 40nm process it’s based on. Support DirectX 11 as well. Perfect for 1680 x 1050 or some 1920 x 1080 (1080p), althought you might have to lower the details a bit depending on the video game.

RAM:

G.SKILL RipJaw DDR3 1600

G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 1.5V DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel

4GB of RAM is pretty much mandatory to handle the latest video games along with Windows and background background such as your anti-virus, web broswer, music/video player, etc.

Considering the price of RAM these days and the ever-expending memory use of games and programs, 4GB of high-speed DDR3 memory is a no-brainer.

I went with G.Skill for their high reliability and compatibility with the majority of motherboards. I chose these particular sticks as they only require the standard 1.5V to run at 1600MHz, resulting in lower power consumption, but more importantly, because they are user-friendly as they don’t require to increase the voltage for stock settings.

In my opinion, there is little incentive to move to faster frequency RAM, as it brings only a small performance increase (According to Tom’s Hardware ) for a much higher price. DDR3 1600MHz is the sweet spot, costing about the same as lower speed, offering good performance and overclocking headroom.

Note that the RAM will most likely not run at 1600MHz to begin with. This is normal, you need to adjust your BIOS settings to reach that speed.

Hard Drive:

Western Digital Caviar Blue 3.5" 160GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s

Western Digital Caviar Blue 3.5″ 320GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s

A standard SATA hard drive, that offers 320GB of storage, plenty enough to handle your video/music collection and all your games.

I went with Western Digital because their hard drive offers the highest reliability in my experience, being less prone to failure on average. The Blue Caviar series drives come with a 3 year warranty.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. Western Digital 500GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s - ($56) Get an extra 180GB for $8 more.
  2. Western Digital 640GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s- ($70) Get twice the capacity for $22 more.
  3. Western Digital Caviar Black 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s - ($80) This is the first upgrade that offers more performance, thanks to a larger 32MB cache and the fact that this is the high-performance series from Western Digital, the Caviar Black. For $32 more, you get 430GB more, a tad more performance and a 5 years warranty instead of 3.

Optical Drive:

LITE-ON Black 24X SATA CD/DVD Burner

LITE-ON Black 24X SATA CD/DVD Burner

This drive is able to read and burn CDs and DVDs. Silent, compatible with all major formats including DVD-RAM.

The motherboard includes two SATA cables (One will be used for the hard drive and one for this DVD Burner), so no need to worry about cables.

Also, seeing as DVD Burners are often go out of stock lately, here are a two alternatives that you can use to replace it. All are SATA based.

  1. LITE-ON Black 24X SATA Black CD/DVD Writer
  2. HP Black 24X SATA 24X CD/DVD Writer – Retail

Case:

Cooler Master Elite 310 Silver

Cooler Master Elite 310 ATX Mid Tower (Black/Silver)

Priced at $40, this new case is a nice surprise from Cooler Master. It offers a nice design, it’s solid (not flimsy metal usually found on cases at this price), a side window and decent cooling. Seriously, in my opinion, for $40, this case just plain rocks!

The case comes with one 120mm case fan on the back. That’s nothing spectacular, but it’s good enough to keep your system cool enough. Mind you, it has space for two additional 120mm fans, one on the side window and one in the front, which requires to remove the front panel though.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. Cooler Master Elite 310 (Black/Blue) – 1x 120mm fan – The same case, but with a blue bezel.
  2. Cooler Master Elite 310 (Black/Blue) – 1x 120mm fan- The same case, but with a red bezel.
  3. Cooler Master Elite 310 (Black/Orange) – 1x 120mm fan - The same case, but with an orange bezel.
  4. Antec Three Hundred Illusion – 3x 120mm 1x 140mm fansThe Antec Three Hundred is a smaller version of the well known Antec Nine Hundred. This particular edition (Illusion) comes with three 120mm and one 140mm case fans, all of them on which you can adjust the speed.If you intend on overclocking, for an extra $20, this case will definitely help you lower your temperatures.

Power Supply:

Antec NEO ECO 400W

Antec NEO ECO 400W 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC

This power supply is capable of delivering up to 400W, not that should rely on this information only as I often point in posts such as Warning: 6 Surefire Ways of Blowing Up Your Computer Due to an Inadequate Power Supply, but more importantly 30A on the 12V line, the most important factor when it comes to choosing a power supply for a gaming computer.

Best of all, it is 80 PLUS certified, meaning that it’s always at least 80% efficient, resulting in less heat, more silence and a lower electricity bill for you.

Power Consumption:

According to the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator, it is estimated that this system will consume at load (peak usage):

  • 238W with the recommended Athlon II X3 425 and the Radeon 5750.
  • 256W with an Athlon II X3/X4 and a Radeon 5770.

This goes to prove how efficient these new Radeon 57xx cards are, especially compared to the older Radeon 48xx series. The power supply will have no problem handling any of the recommended upgrades, even in the worse case scenario. However, if you intend on overclocking, I cannot recommend enough that you upgrade the power supply.

Upgrades:
Antec NEO ECO 520W 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC (No Power Cord) – If you intend on overclocking or simply want more overhead, this power supply offers an extra 120W over the main recommendation, for an extra $20.

Note that neither the recommend power supply nor the upgrade comes with a power cord.
If you don’t happen to have an extra one laying around, here are some that you can buy:

Cooling: Stock cooling

To save on costs, I recommend using the cooler included with the CPU. While there are better coolers, the one that is included is good enough to handle the cpu under normal operation. The case includes cooling fans as well to help you keep your system cool.

However, there are two reasons why you may choose to upgrade your cooling system:

  1. To keep your computer components cooler, which in return extend their lifespan and allows you to overclock to higher speed.
  2. To keep your system silent, as the stock cooling can get noisy at times, especially during prolonged gaming sessions.

Alternatives:

  1. Cpu Cooler: If you have any intention of overclocking, I cannot stress enough the importance of a good cooler.The ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 92mm CPU Cooler offers the best value regarding performance for the price.
  2. Thermal Compound: Use the ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 Thermal Compound either with the stock cooler or better, with the upgraded CPU cooler to lower your CPU temperatures further more. For $8, this is a wise investment.
  3. Case cooling: You can add up to two additional 120 mm fans in the Cooler Master Elite 310, one in the front (Requires removal of front panel) and one on the side. At least adding one on the side will help keep your video card cool, but the best is to get two. If you’re on a tight budget and don’t mind a bit of noise at 29.3 dBA, the Rosewill 120mm Case Fan is a good choice.
    Go for the Scythe 120mm “Slipstream” Case Fan if you’re looking for a higher-quality, more silent fan. This particular model is relatively silent at only 24dBA.

Sound Card: 8 channels sound card: Integrated on the motherboard

Integrated with the motherboard, this sound card will handle many different sound setups, including headphones, a microphone and more. While integrated audio on a PC used to be absolutely horrible, it has gotten much better in the last few years, thus why I have no trouble recommending it.

Network: Ethernet RJ-45 10/100/1000 Mbps LAN: Integrated on the motherboard

Integrated with the motherboard, this network adapter will allow you to access your local network and Internet.

Recommended operating systems:

The operating system cost, if there’s one, is not included in the total cost. The two reason for this are:

  1. The budget only considers hardware.
  2. You may be able re-use a previous license, go with an open-source OS such as Linux or , if you’re so inclined and are aware of what you’re doing, use torrents.

If you decide that you need a need OS, here are some recommendations:

Windows 7

Despite Linux gaining more and more support, Windows still is the platform of choice for compatibility at the moment. Considering that you’ll have 4GB of RAM or more, along with a dedicated video that also has memory (512MB or 1GB), you’ll need a 64-bit version, as 32-bit is limited to 4GB of memory for the entire system, which is not enough now, nor in the future if you decide to upgrade.

Windows 7 is by far better than Windows Vista, looks better, more functional, less annoying, consumes less resources and brings DirectX 11 to the table.

Three Available Versions:

  1. Windows 7 Home Premium: The basic edition, with all the looks, most of the functionality and DirectX 11.
  2. Windows 7 Professional: If you want the virtual XP mode, you’ll need at least the Professional edition. Also required if you want to backup to a network, using the built-in backup mode in Windows.
  3. Windows 7 Ultimate: To help protect data on your PC and portable storage devices against loss or theft with BitLocker and to work and switch between 35 languages.

OEM vs Retail:

The OEM version allows you to only install it once on a computer. You cannot transfer the license to another computer in the future and you do not receive support from Microsoft. It’s the same type of license you get when you get Windows on a desktop or laptop that you buy from Dell, HP and such. It’s less expensive, but gives less flexibility. Ideal if you intend on keeping your computer for many years.

The Retail version is the full version, which allows you to transfer the license to another computer in the future and you can call Microsoft if you need any form of support. Ideal if you intend on upgrading/changing your computer down the road.

Other than that, you get the same features on both, only the license differs. The price between the two differs obviously.

OEM Versions:

  1. Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit OEM – $105
  2. Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit OEM – $140
  3. Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit OEM – $175

Retail Versions:

  1. Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Retail – $184
  2. Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Retail – $275
  3. Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate Retail – $292

Linux

A lot of people these days boots more than one OS. Linux is a wonderful choice: powerful, cool, and cheap. Take your pick of distributions and have fun! For Fedora, Ubuntu, Debian, Slackware, and Mandrake, try Distrowatch.com, Cheapbytes.com, LinuxQuestions.org or one of the many others.

While Linux does not offer the wide compatibility of Windows with video games, gaming on Linux is still possible, through projects such as Wine, Cedega and Crossover. For more on the topic of Linux Gaming, I invite you to read this excellent article from AnandTech: Linux Gaming: Are we there yet?

What about Word processing, Excel and other Windows-based programs that you need? Linux being an open platform, there are many free alternatives that will answer your needs. For Word/Excel and such, try OpenOffice.

Cost: Free

Conclusion

What do you think of this 1.1 version of the $500 Gaming PC?

What about the new Gaming PC layout?

Let me know what you think by leaving a comment below.

Building this system?

Do you need a guide on how to build a computer or do you have some questions?
Consult our:
FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer

Also, if this is your first build, here are 10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders to get you started.

Finally, if your newly built computer won’t start, I invite you to read Help me: Why won’t my newly assembled PC start or boot?

Don’t miss the new/updates to the Gaming PCs!

Make sure not to miss the next Gaming PC Builds that will be published in the next days/weeks by subscribe for free via RSS or E-mail. If the fact that you’ll be receiving outstanding custom Gaming PC designs for free is not enough to convince you, here are 7 Reasons to Subscribe.

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  • Andy
    hi,
    just finished building this PC and got to the point of windows 7 installation. A problem came up when windows couldnt detect my WD hard drive. Ive tried searching around for answer, but have come up with empty handed. Any ideas?
    In the bios i have "onchip ide channel" enabled.."onchip sata controller" enabled...and the "onchip sata type" set to native ide
  • Andy,

    Your settings sounds right to me. Try connecting your hard drive to another SATA port, see if that fix the problem.
  • Andy
    Seems the problem was the hd...d.o.a. Had it replaced and everything works great. Nice job on these guides.
  • NW
    What has been your experience with Radeon drivers? I have read about people having issues with this and a friend of mine told he had issues along these lines with his. sorry I don't have specifics, but I would like your thoughts on this just as well.
    Thanks
    NW
  • NW,

    While I do most of my work on a laptop equipped with a Nvidia Geforce video card, I haven't had any problems with Radeon drivers when I've build systems with ATI video cards lately.

    However, I have heard and read about users having problems lately due to some grey lines. As far as I know though, ATI has been releasing drivers that have fix some of the problems and the rest should be fixed in their next release. As far as I know, it's an issue that happens to some users with Windows 7 64-bit.

    Drivers problems is something that happens both with Nvidia and ATI, but rest assured that both companies usually fix such problems very quickly.
  • cheap pc
    thanks for the much needed info cut my price in half with even better performance:)
    thanks mark
  • Glad to hear I could help you out Mark.
  • Patrick
    Thank you very much for this guide! I built this system with enough optional upgrades to make it $620 with shipping from NewEgg but it all works wonderfully. The only remaining setup issue I have is with the memory clock speed. I bought the Gigabyte mobo with the recommended G.Skill ram, but when I set the clock speed to 1600 my system became unstable, randomly bluescreening or resetting itself. Can anyone recommend any solutions to this problem?
  • Patrick,

    First of all, my pleasure for the guide, I'm glad that it was useful to you.

    Regarding your RAM issues at 1600 MHz, double-check your timings and voltage, set them manually to the right settings. If you still have problems, try slightly increasing timings (by 1-2) and RAM voltage (say to 1.65V). That should help.

    You could also choose to leave the RAM speed at 1333MHz, the real world performance difference between 1333 and 1600 is too little to notice without using benchmarks. Aka, not enough for you to worry about it, as it's only about 2-3% in video games, according to this Tom's Hardware article.

    Hope that helps.
  • anthrax15
    hi... i got problems with this system...
    it does not start after it was shut off for some time...
    sometimes i can hear the fans working but theres no picture, sometimes it hangs before or after post, it sometimes stops while loading windows and sometimes it loads windows but i can't use the mouse or keyboard (both usb with a hub)...
    after a few resets it works great though and there are no problems at all...

    i tested the hdd the ram and everything, i updated and downgraded the bios, i cleared the cmos, i played around with the ram timings and voltage but nothing really worked...

    my exact specs are:
    ASRock M3A770DE
    AMD Athlon II X4 630
    Cougar Power 400W ATX 2.3 AC
    4GB-Kit DDR3-RAM PC1600 CL9 A-DATA XPG G Series
    HIS HD 5750
    Samsung HD502IJ

    maybe sombody got some ideas what i could be before i beat this things with a hammer...
  • All the symptoms point out to the power supply and after seeing what you got as a power supply, I'm 99% sure it is that.

    Do yourself and your system a favor: Get a solid power supply like the ones I recommend.

    Read this post to learn why you don't want to cut corners on a power supply, like you did : Warning: 6 Surefire Ways of Blowing Up Your Computer Due to an Inadequate Power Supply

    After reading that, you'll understand why I always recommend top-notch power supply, even with the $250 Web PC Build ;)

    Hope that helps.
  • anthrax15
    ok, but just because you don't know this brand doesn't mean that it is some cheap shit ;)
    it's the same price range as your antec (which by the way i did not find in german stores) with 80 plus certification and the ratings are pretty good aswell...
    but i guess its time to change the components and i'll start with the power supply...
  • I actually know the brand, I've heard of it too often from people having similar problems as yours. Unfortunately, I'm not kidding, search Google for "Cougar Power Supply", you'll see what I mean.

    How much you spend doesn't necessarily mean that it's a good power supply. Throughput testing, research and experience will help you find a quality power supply. Even their high-end Cougar 1000W power supply was quoted:

    "And now we hit the major snag. The ripple output across all rails on the Cougar 1000CM was quite frankly shocking! Actually scratch that...I don't think there is a word which can describe how appalling 144mV of ripple on the +12v rail is during Test 1! This is already outside of ATX specification which states that ripple should be no higher than 50mV on the +3.3v/+5v rails and 120mV on the +12v rails, and we havent even applied any significant load yet! Similary the +3.3v and +5v rails are also cringe-worthy topping out at 118mV and 106mV respectively.

    Fast forwarding to Test 4 and as you'd expect, things only get worse. 194mV of ripple on the +3.3v rail, 192mV on the +5v rail and 212mV on the +12v rail. It's almost like somebody forgot to solder in the capacitors! At this point we actually uplugged the Cougar from the testing equipment and tried a different PSU in there to make sure that there wasn't an issue with our load tester. There wasn't. "


    You can read more at OverClock3D, where they tested it.

    If you can't find an Antec, here are nine other brands that I can recommend:

    1. Cooler Master: Avoid their eXtreme series but the rest of Cooler Master power supplies are recommended.
    2. Corsair
    3. EnerMax
    4. PC Power and Cooling
    5. RoseWill: Only their Xtreme/RX series. Avoid other series.
    6. SeaSonic
    7. SevenTeam
    8. Silverstone
    9. Thermaltake: Only their Purepower and Toughpower series. Avoid other series.
  • anthrax15
    well... tested it with a be quiet! Straight Power 450W... same problem...
    has to be the motherboard then...
  • Either motherboard or BIOS settings. Did you check voltages/timings?
  • anthrax15
    since i knew that the m3a770de has problems with the auto settings for the ram that was the first thing i checked... i tried the recommended timings and voltage (9-9-9-24 1,5V) and every other combination that made sense and tested the ram twice...

    i also tested the hdd, upgraded an downgraded the bios and cleared the cmos...
    i even took the whole damn thing apart and put it back together...
  • Yeah, at that point and after trying a new power supply, I would RMA the motherboard.
  • anthrax15
    got a new motherboard... same problem...
    suggestions?!
  • Here's two things to try then:

    -Upgrade the motherboard BIOS to the latest version.
    -Download and burn the freely available memtest86+ bootable CD image. Boot your system from that CD and let memtest86+ run overnight to make sure there are no errors with your RAM.
  • f16jetman
    What do you think about the Antec Earth Watts 430 EA-430
    80 Plus Certified ATX12V v2.2 compliant power supply? I found it on sale at staples for $40 and was wondering if it is a good buy? -Aaron
  • It's a good power supply that I can recommend instead of the Antec Neo 400W. Go for it!
  • Aaron
    Could i update to a 1tb hard drive and still remain close to budget? if so what would you recommend
  • Sure thing. Go with the SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB. It's $90, so that adds $40 to the budget.
  • Anthony
    I've never built a computer before, so I feel pretty good seeing many of my selected parts on this list!

    I'd like to add that Fry's has some good deals on CPU + Mobo; a few weeks ago they had an i5 + mobo for $215

    Also, check Newegg for combo deals
  • John
    Hey Mathieu, just wondering if this setup would be good for Empire Total War?
  • BrokenFighter
    I am looking the cheapest build that would be able to handle Adobe Photoshop, Dreamweaver, and Fireworks at the same time without lag, and would be able to handle the game Left 4 Dead 2 (are you familiar with it, if not this webpage has the minimum and recommended requirements: http://store.steampowered.com/app/550/) with minimal lag (enough to play on a competitive level) at moderate settings.

    Thank you for this site, it is amazing! :)
  • BrokenFighter,

    What's the resolution of the monitor that you intend to use with such a build?

    I just need to know that first to recommend you a build that would suit your needs.

    Thanks,
    Mathieu
  • BrokenFighter
    1680x1050.
  • This build will suit your needs then.

    I would highly recommend the AMD Athlon II X4 630 Propus 2.8GHz Quad-Core CPU upgrade to help you handle Adobe Photoshop, Dreamweaver, and Fireworks at the same time though.

    Also, you may want to consider getting 2 kits of RAM, for a total of 8GB (4 x 2GB) of RAM, but then again, that depends on what you do with the programs and what memory usage you expect.

    Mind you, nothing stops you from getting only one kit to start with and adding another later on, just make sure to get the same one to ensure compatibility.
  • BrokenFighter
    Thank you very much! You have helped me tremendously with building my first computer both with your guides and with your responses to my question. Thank you again.
  • I forgot to add: Left for Dead 2 at 1680 x 1050 will fly on this system, with max settings that is.
  • justin
    Hey Mathieu, I bought the last version of this build with the antec 900 case... at first everything came on except nothing showed up on the screen... turned out that i had a 24 pin power connector on the motherboard that i thought powered the whole motherboard but... there was a 4 pin power connector specifically for the processor... so i had everything with juice except for the brain... well i am MORE than satisfied with the build... thanks so much for your help.
  • Will
    What about the NZXt Gamma for a case? I think it has much more value for the same price as listed.

    I have seen that you have been recommending the Antec Neo Eco 400w, I have recently got mine for my own $500 build. How do you think it compares to Corsairs CX400?
  • Will,

    The NZXT Gamma is a great case and I would recommend it if only it wasn't
    out of stock.I will most likely recommend it in future updates.

    As for the Corsair CX400, it offers the same wattage, the same 30A on the
    12V line and same efficiency (80 PLUS) as the Antec Neo Eco.

    On average, Corsair power supplies are a notch up in reliability compared to
    Antec, but Antec power supplies still are very reliable.
    What I mean is that if I was to build a highly overclocked build, where I
    wanted every last MHz, then I would probably go with a Corsair over an
    Antec. Then again, with such a build, the $10, $20 or $30 wouldn't bother me
    as in this $500 build.

    So, on average, Corsair power supplies are a notch up in reliability, but
    also a notch up in price on average. In this case, the CX400 was $10 more
    compared to the Antec one and the Antec provides plenty enough stability for
    this build, hence why I went with Antec here.

    If the prices were the same, which happens once in a while with promotions,
    then I would recommend the Corsair over the Antec.
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