$850 Gaming PC: Time for a Major CPU Upgrade!

Mathieu Bourgie | July 28, 2010 | View Comments
Antec Three Hundred Illusion

The Antec Three Hundred Illusion, the case featured in this build.

Upcoming Updates

Last week, I updated the $400 Gaming PC, the $500 Gaming PC and the $600 Gaming Computer. Yesterday, I updated the $700 Gaming Computer. Today, I’m updating the $850 Build and I’ll be updating the $1000 and $1250 Gaming Builds later this week. Expect updates to the more expensive ($1500+) Gaming Builds starting in the second week of August, with updates to our Best Of type of articles in the first week of August.

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This version compared to the previous version of the $850 Gaming Build:

  1. The CPU gets a major upgrade: From an AMD Athlon II X4 630 2.8GHz Quad-Core to the Intel Core i5 750 2.66GHz Quad-Core. Don’t let the lower frequency fool you, the Intel Core i5 750 2.66GHz has no problem beating AMD’s fastest CPU, the Phenom II X4 3.4GHz, despite the 733MHz disadvantage. More on that in the CPU section.
  2. The Video card was slightly downgraded from a Radeon HD 5850 1GB to a Gigabyte Geforce GTX 460 OC edition. The GTX 460 trails the Radeon 5850 by only a few % on average, beating it on some occasions, but costs $60 less and has an incredible overclocking headroom.
  3. The Motherboard was changed from an ASUS M4A785TD-V EVO AM3 785G to a GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 LGA1156 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0 Crossfire 8x/8x, due to the platform (AMD AM3 to Intel LGA 1156) change. Of course, the SATA 6.0Gb/s, USB 3.0 and Crossfire 8x/8x features, which the ASUS M4A785TD-V EVO AM3 785G doesn’t offer, don’t hurt at all.
  4. The DVD Burner was changed from an ASUS 24X to a LITE-ON 24x model, which is $4 less expensive and is just as reliable.
  5. The Hard Drive was upgraded, performance wise, from a Western Digital 640GB Black Caviar to a Samsung F3 500GB, simply because the Samsung model performs better.
  6. The Power Supply was downgraded from an Antec 650W 80PLUS to a Silverstone 500W 80PLUS. Simply put, 650W is overkill for this build with the recommended parts, so no need to waste money. However, if you do decide to upgrade, you can simply upgrade the power supply.
  7. Other than that, the build is unchanged and now costs $852 instead of $838, a $14 increase, that is easily justified by the appreciable gain in performance, especially CPU-wise and additional features compared to the previous version.

Is this the right type of PC for me?

If you’re looking for a PC to play video games, you’re at the right place. If this is not what you’re looking for, check out our other Computer Systems instead.

$850 Gaming computer hardware parts recommendations, short version:

Explanation:

  • In the left column, you have the component type, such as the Processor, Video Card, etc.
  • In the middle column, you have the specific brand, model and a quick look at specifications for that part, as well as a link to buy it.
  • In Bold, you’ll find my recommendations for the parts that you should buy in order to have the best overall performance while fitting the overall budget.
  • In Italic, you’ll find the best possible upgrades if you have money to spare. These are the parts that offer better features or more performance, while still being relatively affordable in regard to the overall budget. In simple terms, if you want a more powerful video card, pick it from the list of recommended upgrades that are in Italic.
  • In the right column, you’ll find the best price that I found after double-checking at various trustworthy online sellers such as Amazon.com, NewEgg.com, Buy.com and others.
  • If upgrades just don’t cut it, visit the Gaming PCs page, where you’ll find our other gaming computer custom build designs.
  • Note that all upgrades are compatible with the rest of the system, as well as other upgrades, meaning that you can choose one or many upgrades without a problem. Of course, please carefully read any note(s) that I may leave to clarify and avoid some possible issues.

Required components:

Components Make, Model and Specifications Price
CPU/Processor Intel Core i5-750 2.66GHz LGA1156 95W Quad-Core
Intel Core i5-760 2.8GHz LGA1156 95W Quad-Core
Intel Core i7-870 2.93GHz LGA1156 95W Quad-Core HT
Intel Core i7-875K 2.93GHz LGA1156 Quad-Core HT Unlocked
$195
$210
$290
$330
Motherboard GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 LGA1156 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0
ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 P55 Micro ATX
ASUS P7P55D PRO LGA 1156 P55
GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD4P LGA1156 P55 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0 ATX
ASUS Maximus III Formula LGA1156 P55 ATX w/ Sound Card
$140
$150
$170
$185
$230
RAM G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 9
G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 7 1.35V
CORSAIR XMS 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 2000MHz 1.65V
G.SKILL 8GB (4 x 2GB) DDR3 1600MHz
$100
$105
$120
$200
Video Card GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 460 1GB OC Edition
Radeon HD 5850 1GB
GeForce GTX 470 1280MB
Two GIGABYTE Radeon HD 5770 1GB SOC Edition in Crossfire
Two GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 460 1GB OC Edition in SLI
$230
$285
$300
$310
$460
Hard Drive Samsung F3 500GB SATA II 3.0Gb/s
Samsung F3 1TB SATA II 3.0Gb/s
Two Samsung F3 500GB SATA II 3.0Gb/s in RAID 0 for 1TB
Two Samsung F3 1TB SATA II 3.0Gb/s in RAID 0 for 2TB
$52
$70
$104
$140
Optical Drive LITE-ON Black 24X SATA CD/DVD Burner
LITE-ON 4X Blu-ray Reader SATA
LG 10X Blu-ray Burner SATA
$20
$60
$110
Power Supply SILVERSTONE ST50F-ES 500W 80 PLUS Certified
SeaSonic S12II 520W 80PLUS BRONZE Certified
SeaSonic M12II 620W 80PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular
SeaSonic S12D 850W 80PLUS SILVER Certified
$60
$70
$90
$120
Case Antec Three Hundred Illusion
NZXT Apollo NP Orange
Thermaltake Soprano RS
LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58
RAIDMAX AZTEC ATX-619WO Orange
COOLER MASTER Storm Scout SGC-2000-KKN1-GP
LIAN LI Lancool PC-K56W
COOLER MASTER HAF 922
LIAN LI Lancool PC-K62
LIAN LI PC-7BYCF
Antec Nine Hundred
Antec Nine Hundred Two
$55
$70
$70
$50
$70
$80
$90
$90
$100
$90
$100
$120
Cooling Intel CPU Stock Cooler included with CPU
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus 120mm CPU Cooler
ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 Thermal Compound
CORSAIR All-in-One Water-Cooling CPU Cooler
Rosewill RFX-120 Adjustable 120mm Case Fan
Free
$25
$8
$75
$8
Sound 8 channels sound card: Integrated on the motherboard
Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE 7.1 24-bit PCI
Free
$35
Network Ethernet RJ-45 10/100/1000 Mbps: Integrated on the motherboard Free
Total price Not Including OS, Shipping nor handling. Within -/+ 5% of Budget $852

Accessories:

Accessories Make, Model and Specifications Price
Headphone Rosewill RH-40C 3.5mm Circumaural
SONIC HP-259 3.5mm Circumaural
PLANTRONICS .Audio 355 3.5mm Circumaural
SENNHEISER PC31 Dual 3.5mm Supra-aural
KOSS SB45 3.5mm Circumaural
Logitech G330 3.5mm/ USB Circumaural
ABS AZ1 Circumaural USB
SENNHEISER PC151 3.5mm Binaural
$7
$8
$20
$28
$30
$43
$50
$50
Speakers Logitech X-140 5 watts 2.0
Creative Inspire T3130 15 Watts 2.1
Logitech X-540 70 watts 5.1
$27
$50
$89
Monitor ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080
Two ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080
$180
$360

Computer Builds FAQs:

I often get questions such as:

  • Who are you to tell me which parts to choose?
  • Can you suggest me a step by step guide to build a computer?
  • Why should I build a PC instead of buying one in a store?
  • And many more…

You will find the answers to all of these questions and more in this article: FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer

Also, if this is your first build, here are 10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders to get you started.

About Gaming PCs:

Gaming Computers are all about playing video games. Every year, new video games that pushes the boundaries of visual effects are released and demand more and more power from your computer to run. Being so powerful to handle cutting-edge video games, they are also very good all-around computers, capable of handling photo/video edition, web development, High Definition content playback and much more.

This is why our Gaming Builds Designs focus both on current performance for today’s games, as well as being ready to upgrade, to be ready to handle future games. For Gaming Builds Designs, a big portion of the budget goes to the Video Card and the Processor to ensure high performance in video games, as well as a solid power supply with a case with good cooling abilities, to ensure reliability.

Upgrades will usually focus on the processor and video card for enhanced performance, as well as on the power supply and cooling, to enhance overclocking capabilities. You may choose to upgrade the hard drive for more capacity, or change the case to get one that matches your personal preferences, such as look, cooling, size, etc.

$850 Gaming Computer Hardware parts recommendations, detailed version:

Motherboard:

GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3

GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 LGA1156 P55 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0 ATX

This motherboard is filled with great features, such as SATA 6.0Gb/s and USB 3.0.

Of course, this motherboard supports/is compatible with everything in this system.

It come with ten USB ports, two, of them being USB 3.0 and eight of them being USB 2.0.

Other than that, on the back, it has a S/PDIF Out via Optical and Coaxial, one PS/2, Gigabit LAN and 8 Channels audio.

On the board itself, you have two PCI-Express 2.0 16X (Top one at 16x, second one at 4x, in Blue), two PCI-Express 1X and three PCI slots, along with two SATA 6.0Gb/s and six SATA 3.0Gb/s ports and the usual IDE port, etc.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. If you’re looking for a smaller, Micro-ATX motherboard, but do not want to sacrifice performance, overclocking nor Crossfire and SLI support, the ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 P55 Micro ATX packs one heck of a punch! If you’re going for a Crossfire or SLI setup along with overclocking, make sure to at least take a look at this motherboard. Note that the onboard sound is a SupremeFX X-Fi, a big notch up from the usual onboard sound.
  2. Reliable, great overclocking motherboard, Crossfire/SLI support are a few words that I can use to describe the ASUS P7P55D PRO LGA 1156 P55 It doesn’t have any particular outstanding feature, instead it’s a good all-around motherboard, capable of doing what you want, whether that’s overclocking, two video cards in SLI or Crossfire or just a normal stock reliable machine.
  3. Similar to my recommendation, the GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD4P LGA1156 P55 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0 ATX throws in SLI support, even more ports in the back, such as FireWire, includes Dual-LAN and keeps the USB 3.0/SATA 6.0Gb/s support, as long as you don’t use Crossfire or SLI that is.
  4. The ASUS Maximus III Formula LGA1156 P55 ATX w/ Sound Card is one mad motherboard. Optimized for overclocking, it includes a dedicated sound card and supports nothing short of ten SATA devices. Considered by many, including myself, as the best motherboard for overclocking on the LGA 1156 socket.

CPU:

Intel Core i5-750

Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz 8MB L3 LGA1156 95W Quad-Core

In the same price range, AMD offers the Phenom II X4 965BE. I went with the Core i5-750 for the following reasons:

  1. The Core i5-750 outperforms the X4 965 in three out of four gaming benchmarks on Anandtech, with an average of 92.9 FPS for the Core i5 750 and an average of 87.1 FPS for the X4 965.
  2. Unlike the AMD X4 965, you can upgrade the Core i5 750 to a faster CPU on the same socket without a problem.
  3. The Core i5 750 (2.66GHz) has a lot more overclocking potential than the nearly maxed-out Phenom II X4 965 (3.4GHz).

Recommended upgrades (Compared to the Intel Core i5-750 main recommendation):

  1. Intel Core i5-760 Lynnfield 2.8GHz 8MB L3 LGA1156 95W Quad-Core – For a mere $15 more, you can an additional 133MHz, along with an higher multiplier, if you want to overclock.
  2. Intel Core i7-870 Lynnfield 2.93GHz 8MB L3 LGA1156 95W Quad-Core w/ HT – Here you get 266MHz more, along with Hyper-Threading, allowing this CPU to handle up to 8 threads. While HT brings no performance advantage to gaming, it’s a big bonus if you do any audio/photo/video editing or work with highly demanding programs.
  3. Intel Core i7-875K 2.93GHz 8MB L3 LGA1156 95W Quad-Core w/ HT Unlocked – Same as the Core i7-860, except for one big advantage: The Core i7-875K comes with an unlocked multiplier, allowing you to easily overclock it without stressing your motherboard and RAM. Note that the i7-875K does not includes a CPU Cooler, you need to buy one.
  4. For additional options, check out our guide to The Best CPUs For Your Money. Make sure to double-check compatibility with sockets, chipsets and memory if you pick another CPU. You can also leave a comment to ask me ;)

Video Card:

GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 460 SOC

GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 460 1GB OC Edition

Overtaking my previous recommendation for this build, the Radeon HD 5830, the Geforce GTX 460 is the new king at the ~$200 price point. Based on the GF104 die, its power consumption is much more reasonable than the GTX 470 or GTX 480, while its performance is unmatched at this price point, as I pointed out in our latest edition of The Best Video Cards For Your Money series of articles.

For its price, you’ll not find a card that offers as much performance as the Radeon HD 5770,

The Geforce GTX 460 is capable of handling pretty much any game at a resolution of 1920 x 1080 with high visual quality.

Finally, it is DirectX 11 compliant, HDCP Ready and will handle Blu-Ray and other 1080p content playback, with audio over HDMI as well.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. Radeon HD 5850 1GB – If you want a card with even more power, to be more future-proof, in order to keep playing future games at 1080p for some time, the Radeon HD 5850 is an excellent choice.
  2. GeForce GTX 470 1280MB – The Geforce GTX 470 is one step above the Radeon HD 5850 when it comes to performance, but that performance comes at the cost of much higher power consumption (An additionnal 80W compared to the same setup with the Radeon HD 5850) and somewhat higher noise.
  3. At $300, the Geforce GTX 470 offers a bit more bang for the buck than the Radeon HD 5850 at $285. Ultimately, the choice is up to you, whether more performance is worth the tradeoffs (power consumption and more noise). Note that you’ll need to upgrade the power supply in order to upgrade to this card, with, for example, the Seasonic 620W unit that I recommend below.
  4. Two GIGABYTE Radeon HD 5770 1GB SOC Edition in Crossfire – For about the same price as a Geforce GTX 470, two Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire will offer superior performance, similar to a Radeon HD 5870, with still reasonable power consumption.
  5. Two GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 460 1GB OC Edition in SLI – This makes for one heck of a powerful setup: Two GTX 460 in SLI will outperform a GTX 480, the fastest single-GPU video card on the market, without a problem, performing in the same class as the fastest video card on the planet, the dual-gpu Radeon HD 5970.
  6. Other, more powerful options are available in our guide to The Best Video Cards For Your Money. Make sure to consider power requirements and the length of a video card if you decide to go with a different card. Also very important: A very powerful video card will be useless in a low-end Gaming PC, as you want to balance the components to avoid having your CPU bottleneck your video card for example.

RAM:

G.SKILL Ripjaws DDR3 1600

G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 9

4GB of RAM is pretty much mandatory to handle the latest video games along with Windows and background background such as your anti-virus, web browser, music/video player, etc.

Considering the price of RAM these days and the ever-expending memory use of games and programs, 4GB of high-speed DDR3 memory is a no-brainer.

I went with G.Skill for their high reliability and compatibility with the majority of motherboards. I chose these particular sticks due to their low price and regular 1.5V requirement for DDR3 1600MHz frequency.

Recommended upgrades

  1. If you want a kit that has lower latencies and needs only 1.35V to run at 1600MHz, take a look at the G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 7 1.35V memory kit.
  2. CORSAIR XMS 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 2000MHz 9-9-9-24 1.65V – If you intend to overclock, this kit of RAM will give you more headroom to breath, preventing your RAM from being the limiting factor in your overclocking and resulting in more performance from the higher RAM frequency. Of course, if you get an unlocked CPU, with which the overclocking can easily by done by raising the CPU multiplier, which doesn’t affect the RAM at all, then you can stick with DDR3 1600MHz. Then again, for only $20 more, this kit gives you the flexibility of raising the bus speed to overclock.
  3. G.SKILL 8GB (4 x 2GB) DDR3 1600MHz – Future-proof your system from ever increasing software and game memory usage by upgrading to 8GB. Note that if you intend to overclock, you’re better off sticking to two sticks of 2GB for the best overclocking results, as more sticks/GB puts additional stress on the CPU.

Hard Drive:

Samsung F3 500GB

Samsung F3 500GB 3.5″ 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s

A standard SATA hard drive, that offers 500GB of storage, plenty enough to handle your video/music collection and all your games. In this Tom’s Hardware hard drive article, the SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ (The 1TB version) finishes on top of all transfer rates benchmarks, even ahead of what used to be my recommendation for high-end builds, the Western Digital Caviar Black.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. Samsung F3 1TB SATA II 3.0Gb/s – This is the 1TB edition that I wrote about just above. For only $17 ($70) more, you get twice the capacity.
  2. Two Samsung F3 500GB SATA II 3.0Gb/s in RAID 0, Total Capacity: 1TB – For $106, you get two of these Samsung drives, ready to be setup in RAID 0, for a capacity of 1TB and transfer rates of 300+MB/s!
  3. Two Samsung F3 1TB SATA II 3.0Gb/s in RAID 0, Total Capacity: 2TB – Same as above, 300+MB/s transfer rates, except that you get a 2TB storage capacity this time.
  4. Interested in SSDs (Solid State Drives), or want a different drive? I invite you to take a look to our guide to the Best Hard Drives & Best SSDs For Your Money.

Optical Drive:

LITE-ON CD/DVD Burner

LITE-ON Black 24X SATA CD/DVD Burner

This drive is able to read and burn CDs and DVDs. Silent, compatible with all major formats including DVD-RAM.

Also, seeing as DVD Burners are often go out of stock lately, here are a two alternatives that you can use to replace it. All are SATA based.

  1. LITE-ON Black 24X SATA Black CD/DVD Writer
  2. HP Black 24X SATA 24X CD/DVD Writer – Retail

Upgrades:

If you’d like to watch BluRay movies or TV shows, this LITE-ON 4X Blu-ray Reader SATA will do the job. However, note that it can only READ CDs, DVDs and Bluray disks, not burn any of them.

If you want the ability to burn disks as well, the LG 10X Blu-ray Burner SATA is what you want.

Regarding Blu-Ray playback:

As far as I know, you still require a specific software to playback Blu-Ray disks on a PC. Based on various reviews and feedback on various forums, PowerDVD 9 Ultra is the software that I recommend to you. It is fully compatible with Windows 7 and shouldn’t give you any problems.

Case:

Antec Three Hundred Illusion

Antec Three Hundred Illusion 3x 120mm + 1 x 140mm

For only $55, this is one great deal from Antec:

  • Cooling wise, this case includes three 120mm and one 140mm case fans, insuring proper cooling for your Gaming PC. You can also add an additional 120mm case fan on the side, to improve cooling for your video card(s) if you wish to.

Features wise, you get:

  1. A solid steel case. No flimsy panel here.
  2. Support for up to six hard drives
  3. Dust filters.
  4. 2x USB, Audio out, MIC in at the top

Recommended upgrades:

Power Supply:

SILVERSTONE ST50F-ES 500W

SILVERSTONE ST50F-ES 500W

This power supply is capable of delivering up to 500W, not that should rely on this information only as I often point in posts such as Warning: 6 Surefire Ways of Blowing Up Your Computer Due to an Inadequate Power Supply, but more importantly 34A on the 12V line, the most important factor when it comes to choosing a power supply for a gaming computer.

Best of all, it is 80 PLUS certified, meaning that it’s always at least 80% efficient, resulting in less heat, more silence and a lower electricity bill for you, compared to a less efficient power supply.

Power Consumption:

According to the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator, it is estimated that this system will consume at load (peak usage):

  • 349W with the recommended Intel Core i5 750 95W (Or any CPU Upgrade), the Geforce GTX 460 and this build without upgrades.
  • 358W with an Intel Core i7 870 95W, a Radeon HD 5850 and two hard drives in RAID.
  • 387W with an Intel Core i7 875K overclocked to 3600MHz 1.4V and a Geforce GTX 460.
  • 406W with an Intel Core i7 875K overclocked to 3600MHz 1.4V and two Radeon HD 5770 in Crossfire.
  • 475W with an Intel Core i7 875K overclocked to 3600MHz 1.4V, two hard drives in RAID and a Geforce GTX 470.
  • 519W with an Intel Core i7 875K overclocked to 3600MHz 1.4V, four sticks of RAM, two hard drives in RAID and two Geforce GTX 460 in SLI. This is the worse case scenario.

The power supply will have no problem handling the base recommended setup or an upgrade to the Geforce GTX 460 or Radeon HD 5850. However, for the upgrade to the Geforce GTX 470 or for overclocking and/or upgrading to a SLI or Crossfire setup now or in the future , upgrading the power supply is a must to ensure a properly working PC that is stable and that will last.

Recommended upgrades:

  1. SeaSonic S12II 520W 80PLUS BRONZE Certified – A must for overclocking the stock setup, with its stable power delivery and high-efficiency, at a reasonable price; Recommended By Jonnyguru, an authority when it comes to testing power supplies.
  2. SeaSonic M12II 620W 80PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular – (Recommended for GTX 470 upgrade, Radeon 5770 Crossfire, or GTX 460 in SLI or overclocking) If you want to be future-proof, for example to be capable of upgrading to a dual Geforce GTX 460 setup in the future, a setup that will pull about 500W with a quad-core Phenom, you’ll want at least this power supply. This is also what you want if you have a single video card system, but that decide to overclock it.
  3. SeaSonic S12D 850W 80PLUS SILVER Certified – Recommended to be future-proof, if you do consider upgrading to a Crossfire or SLI setup now or at one point, but also want to overclock to your heart’s desire, something that would bring power consumption to 600W, if not even 700W+, you’ll want to pick a solid power supply. On top of delivering up to 850W, this unit is certified 80PLUS Silver, resulting in less heat, more silence and a lower electricity bill for you, compared to a less efficient power supply.
  4. If you’re not sure and need help to pick the right power supply, set some time aside and read Warning: 6 Surefire Ways of Blowing Up Your Computer Due to an Inadequate Power Supply.

Cooling: Stock cooling

To save on costs, I recommend using the cooler included with the CPU. While there are better coolers, the one that is included is good enough to handle the cpu under normal operation. The case includes cooling fans as well to help you keep your system cool.

However, there are two reasons why you may choose to upgrade your cooling system:

  1. To keep your computer components cooler, which in return extend their lifespan and allows you to overclock to higher speed.
  2. To keep your system silent, as the stock cooling can get noisy at times, especially during prolonged gaming sessions.

Alternatives:

  1. CPU Cooler: If you decide to give overclocking and/or unlocking cores, I cannot stress enough the importance of a good cooler.The COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus 120mm CPU Cooler offers the best value regarding performance for the price.
  2. Thermal Compound: Use the ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 Thermal Compound either with the stock cooler or better, with the upgraded CPU cooler to lower your CPU temperatures further more. For $8, this is a wise investment.
  3. Case cooling:You can add an additional 120 mm fan in the case, on the side. Although the Antec case already comes with four case fans, feel free consider adding one Rosewill RFX-120 Adjustable 120mm Case Fan in order to improve airflow to your video card(s).

Sound Card: 8 channels sound card: Integrated on the motherboard

Integrated with the motherboard, this sound card will handle many different sound setups, including headphones, a microphone and more. While integrated audio on a PC used to be absolutely horrible, it has gotten much better in the last few years, thus why I have no trouble recommending it.

Note that the ASUS Maximus III GENE motherboard comes with onboard SupremeFX X-Fi sound, while the ASUS Maximus III Formula includes a dedicated sound card.

Recommended upgrade:

For $35, you can get the Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE 7.1 24-bit PCI, which will definitely provide a nice boost in audio quality.

Network: Ethernet RJ-45 10/100/1000 Mbps LAN: Integrated on the motherboard

Integrated with the motherboard, this network adapter will allow you to access your local network and Internet.

Accessories:

Headphones – With a Microphone:

Headphones, with a microphones, are a must for many games, especially First Person Shooters (FPS), where a lack of team communication can break a team. However, I do realize that we all have different tastes when it comes to headphones, as in which size is comfortable, which brand sounds the best, etc. This is why I found eight great pair of headphones, with prices ranging from $7 to $50, for you to choose from:

  1. Rosewill RH-40C 3.5mm Circumaural
  2. SONIC HP-259 3.5mm Circumaural
  3. PLANTRONICS .Audio 355 3.5mm Circumaural
  4. SENNHEISER PC31 Dual 3.5mm Supra-aural
  5. KOSS SB45 3.5mm Circumaural
  6. Logitech G330 3.5mm/ USB Circumaural
  7. ABS AZ1 Circumaural USB
  8. SENNHEISER PC151 3.5mm Binaural

Speakers:

If all you want is a pair of decent, inexpensive speakers, the Logitech X-140 5 watts 2.0 at $27, or the Creative Inspire T3130 15 Watts 2.1 for $50 will do a great job.

Looking for higher quality speakers, without breaking the bank still? The Logitech X-540 70 watts 5.1 make for an excellent and affordable 5.1 setup.

Display:

For a long time, you’ve been asking for recommendations for a good monitor to play on. I’m listening to you and I’ve decided to include at the very least, one recommendation of a good monitor for every Gaming PC.

My recommendations are based on the following criteria:

  • Price: I obviously won’t recommend a $1000 monitor if the budget for the PC is $800.
  • Resolution: The resolution of the monitor directly impacts the performance within video games, as higher resolution are more demanding on the system, resulting in lower FPS. Picking the right resolution for a particular system is crucial to achieve good performance.
  • Response time: The lower the better, very important with video games.
  • Brightness and Contrast Ratio: The higher, the better.
  1. With its resolution of 1920x 1080, the ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080 gets my main recommendation for the $850 Gaming PC, as it is, without upgrades. This Build will have no problem offering excellent performance in all video games on this monitor. It is also the best option to be able to play future video games (Think DirectX 11 games) without upgrading, or at least, not as soon.
  2. If you get yourself two cards in a Crossfire or SLI, you can consider two ASUS VH226H 21.5″ 2ms Full HD 1080P 1920 x 1080 side by side, for a resolution of 3840 x 1080.

Recommended operating systems:

The operating system cost, if there’s one, is not included in the total cost. The two reason for this are:

  1. The budget only considers hardware.
  2. You may be able re-use a previous license, go with an open-source OS such as Linux or , if you’re so inclined and are aware of what you’re doing, use torrents.

If you decide that you need a need OS, here are some recommendations:

Windows 7

Despite Linux gaining more and more support, Windows still is the platform of choice for compatibility at the moment. Considering that you’ll have 4GB of RAM or more, along with a dedicated video that also has memory (512MB or 1GB), you’ll need a 64-bit version, as 32-bit is limited to 4GB of memory for the entire system, which is not enough now, nor in the future if you decide to upgrade.

Windows 7 is by far better than Windows Vista, looks better, more functional, less annoying, consumes less resources and brings DirectX 11 to the table.

Three Available Versions:

  1. Windows 7 Home Premium: The basic edition, with all the looks, most of the functionality and DirectX 11.
  2. Windows 7 Professional: If you want the virtual XP mode, you’ll need at least the Professional edition. Also required if you want to backup to a network, using the built-in backup mode in Windows.
  3. Windows 7 Ultimate: To help protect data on your PC and portable storage devices against loss or theft with BitLocker and to work and switch between 35 languages.

OEM vs Retail:

The OEM version allows you to only install it once on a computer. You cannot transfer the license to another computer in the future and you do not receive support from Microsoft. It’s the same type of license you get when you get Windows on a desktop or laptop that you buy from Dell, HP and such. It’s less expensive, but gives less flexibility. Ideal if you intend on keeping your computer for many years.

The Retail version is the full version, which allows you to transfer the license to another computer in the future and you can call Microsoft if you need any form of support. Ideal if you intend on upgrading/changing your computer down the road.

Other than that, you get the same features on both, only the license differs. The price between the two differs obviously.

OEM Versions:

  1. Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit OEM – $100
  2. Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit OEM – $140
  3. Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit OEM – $175

Retail Versions:

  1. Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Retail – $180
  2. Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Retail – $258
  3. Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate Retail – $276

Linux

A lot of people these days boots more than one OS. Linux is a wonderful choice: powerful, cool, and cheap. Take your pick of distributions and have fun! For Fedora, Ubuntu, Debian, Slackware, and Mandrake, try Distrowatch.com, Cheapbytes.com, LinuxQuestions.org or one of the many others.

While Linux does not offer the wide compatibility of Windows with video games, gaming on Linux is still possible, through projects such as Wine, Cedega and Crossover. For more on the topic of Linux Gaming, I invite you to read this excellent article from AnandTech: Linux Gaming: Are we there yet?

What about Word processing, Excel and other Windows-based programs that you need? Linux being an open platform, there are many free alternatives that will answer your needs. For Word/Excel and such, try OpenOffice.

Cost: Free

Conclusion

What do you think of this updated version of the $850 Gaming PC?

Let me know what you think by leaving a comment below.

Building this system?

Do you need a guide on how to build a computer or do you have some questions?

Consult our: FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer

Also, if this is your first build, here are 10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders to get you started.

Finally, if your newly built computer won’t start, I invite you to read Help me: Why won’t my newly assembled PC start or boot?

Don’t miss out on the new models/updates to the Gaming PCs!

Make sure not to miss the next Gaming PC Builds that will be published in the next days/weeks by getting them for free via RSS or E-mail. If the fact that you’ll be receiving outstanding custom Gaming PC designs for free is not enough to convince you, here are 7 Reasons to Get Our Posts Via RSS or E-Mail For Free!

Category: Gaming PC

About Mathieu Bourgie: Hi, nice to meet you! I’m a computer enthusiast with 10 years of experience in building, fixing and modifying computers. I opened up my first computer case over a decade ago, to see what it was made of, how it works and over time I’ve developed a great passion for computers, especially for all the hardware and bits that makes it happen. In the month of April 2008, I launched Hardware Revolution and ... Read more at my about page. .

  • Livingegg
    Hello Mathieu. Thanks a lot for this great resource!! I just built a new machine based on some of your specs here - its absolutely beautiful except that I am getting random freezing and lock-ups in windows 7 64-bit. See this page for details on my system specs and the problem: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/293946-31-random-freezing-lock-windows-help

    The only thing "off" that I have noticed is the memory frequency in the bios. The timing and voltage settings match the ram (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277) perfectly - but the freq. shows 1333 instead of 1600. I cannot see anywhere to change this freq and I subsequently read that this mobo (GA-P55A-UD3) combined with a core i-5 can't support 1600 without overclocking. I'm not comfortable enough with my knowedlge to overclock this fulltime, so I may have gotten myself into a bind and need to find new 1333 ram.

    Do you think this mem freq. discrepancy could be causing the random freezing and lockups?
  • Livingegg,

    I took a look at the thread on Tom's Hardware about your build and the issues.

    I can tell you right off the bat that the frequency of your RAM isn't the issue and that you shouldn't worry about that, since RAM is designed to scale back its frequency depending on the platform/CPU. Also, the performance impact between running your RAM at 1333MHz and 1600MHz is negligible, 1-2% at most.

    According to your temperatures, over-heating is also not the issue.

    Considering the symptoms, I'd highly suspect that the RAM is defective. Most likely, it is working alright most of the time, but is throwing some errors here and there, causing your PC to freeze.

    Try running http://www.memtest86.com/ over night (8hrs+), see if your RAM throws any error(s) at you. If it does, you just found your problem and you'll want to return the RAM for a new set.

    If it doesn't show any error, then your motherboard would be the culprit.

    Keep me updated on this, I'll do my best to help out figure out the problem.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Victor M.
    First of all amazing site, so I decided on building my first pc and well I mostly want this for autocad and playing a few games mostly starcraft 2 and from what i read the best processor and gpu to use are mentioned in this build, on top of that if you use the bundled deals that someone else posted here u can get all the parts for about $734.

    I got one question if I want to use this computer for autocad will this build run autocad just fine with 2 gtx 460s (which i will add in the near future) and duel monitors or should I be thinking of saving up a bit more money.

    Thank you in advance for the response.
  • Victor,

    Autocad shouldn't be a problem on two monitors if you use two GTX 460 in SLI. Just make sure to pick the 1GB edition for the extra memory and performance.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Victor M.
    Thank you for the fast response. Today I will start ordering the parts but I got one last question which motherboard would you recommend for the two GTX 460 in SLI because I was thinking on the asus P7P55D pro LGA but since im still new not sure if it is going to be worth the extra money for that motherboard over the gigabyte that you have for this build.
  • Victor,

    The Gigabyte motherboard that is my main recommendation for this build does not support two Geforce cards in SLI, so you will need to upgrade to a motherboard to supports SLI, such as the ASUS Maximus III Gene or the Asus P7P55D Pro, for example.

    Also very important, since a two video cards system will draw quite a bit more power than a single video card system, you will need to upgrade your power supply to a more powerful model, like the SeaSonic M12II 620W that I recommend in this post.

    Hope this clears up for you, let me know if you have more questions and/or if you want me to double-check your buying list before you actually buy the parts.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Victor M.
    This is my list of parts im going to order.
    (decided not to go with SLI in the end and just get a large screen)

    Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 LGA1156 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0
    Processor: Intel Core i5-760 2.8GHz LGA1156 95W Quad-Core
    Video Card: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 460 1GB OC Edition
    RAM: G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 7 1.35V (great deal with the
    motherboard on newegg.com)
    Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKS 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache
    SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5"
    Power Supply: SILVERSTONE ST50F-ES 500W 80 PLUS Certified
    Case: Rosewill DESTROYER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
    DVD drive: LITE-ON Black 24X SATA CD/DVD Burner

    I might upgrade the PSU and add a bit more RAM and might try to learn to overclock in the future.

  • TnWGamer
    Got a part of my order based on this build, the other part is going to be delivered monday.
    See here: http://a.imageshack.us/img826/1192/p1000432s.jpg

    I had never bought with NewEgg Canada before, but they're really a reliable company (their customer service is top-notch too).

    I'll post more photos of the parts soon so you can get a better idea of the build.
    Thanks Mathieu for this article, without it nothing of this would be possible :)
  • TnWGamer,

    Nice flashy boxes! Hehe, on a more serious note, glad that you're getting your parts, good luck with the build, let me know if you need help during the building process.

    Couldn't agree more about NewEgg (USA or Canada), they are reliable, have some of the lowest prices and most importantly, a kickass customer service. There's a reason why I recommend them the most ;)

    Good to hear from you, glad to hear that the article helped you out.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Bun_master_ho
    How far can I overclock the CPU and GPU for daily use and gaming and have good stability and temperaturs?

    Ive just built this great model you posted but with the i5-760, Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus, Seasonic S12II 520w, and Lancool PC-k62 case.
  • Josh
    I made this build with i5-750 the antec 300 and the same power supply. I was able to achieve 800/1600/2000 easily with the gpu probably, could go further but no need runs all games at ultra at a resolution of 1680*1050. The CPU I was able to get to 3.6 Ghz withthen with temps around 64 on full load and mid 30s on idle .I toned it back down to 3.2 Ghz cause i dont really need 3.6 for gaming and the cpu fan noticeably louder even at idle. Here is a great video on youtube on how to overclock the i5 proc on the gigabyte board which is a great guide to beginners. http://bit.ly/8Yxenu
  • Josh,

    Thanks for sharing your overclocking results.

    By the way, if the CPU fan noise is bugging you, you could get a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus, which will cost you about $30. It's very silent (It's what I use in my own quiet workstation in my quiet office), it automatically adjust its speed depending on the temperature of your CPU and will greatly lower your temperatures. With such a CPU Cooler, hitting 3.6GHz, if not even 3.8-4.0GHz shouldn't be a problem, at a reasonable noise level that is ;)

    To give you an idea, I use it with my own CPU, a Phenom II X2 555, unlocked to a quad-core running at 3.6GHz. Temperatures stay under 50 all the time and I can't hear a thing.


    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Bun_master_ho,

    That varies, each system has its own limits. For more information on overclocking, I invite you to visit the guys at EXTREME Overclocking Forums, they are the best when it comes to overclocking in my opinion.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Seth
    You have recommended this build as a viable option for building a CS5 workstation. I have heard that CS5 (especially Premiere and After Effects which I will be using a lot) like extra cores. Does this give any advantage to the AMD X6 processors with a slower speed, or would I still be better off with the Intel. It seems to me that you are an Intel guy all the way (and likely for good reason), but wasn't sure if those extra cores would be more helpful to me than the extra speed with CS5.
  • Seth,

    First of all, let's clarify this: I'm no Intel guy. Like anyone will be able to tell you here, I'm a fanboy of whichever company offers the product that offers the best performance at a given price, based on reliable information that I source.

    If you take a look at the $400, $500, $600 and $750 Gaming PC, you'll see that they are equipped with an AMD CPU.

    Now, regarding whether Intel or AMD is better for CS5: Quite frankly, reliable data on the matter is scarce. Here's what I could gather from what I got:

    At the $200 level, that is Intel Core i5-760 Quad-Core 2.8GHz vs AMD Phenom II X6 1055T 6-core 2.8GHz, the Phenom II is a tad faster in CS5 Premiere Pro, while the i5-760 is quite a bit faster in CS5 Photoshop, according to those benchmarks. You will notice that both processors are overclocked to 4.0GHz in that article. Since both are at 4.0GHz in the article and both are at 2.8GHz by default, the overclocking doesn't advantage either processor here.

    Now, if you go to the higher end, where the AMD Phenom II X6 1090T 6-core 3.2GHz and the Intel Core i7 870 Quad-Core + Hyper-Threading 2.8Ghz compete, it would seem that the Core i7 870 has the edge, according to those benchmarks. Note that the benchmark features the Core i7 930, which is virtually identical to the Core i7 870 performance wise (Both have 4-core, HT, 2.8GHz), hence why I use it for this comparison.

    So, as you can tell, it's a tough call, but despite the 6-core vs 4-core disadvantage, Intel CPUs have a slight edge over AMD's Phenom II X6 processors.

    Another thing to consider is that Intel's CPU power consumption is quite a bit lower, resulting in lower overall power consumption, less heat and less noise. Also, overall (outside of CS5), Intel Core CPUs generally have the edge over the Phenom II X6 CPUs.

    I hope this clears it up for you. Let me know if you have other questions.
    Take care,
    Mathieu

    P.S. For the record, my workstation features an AMD Phenom II X2 555 unlocked to a quad-core and overclocked to 3.6GHz ;)
  • Seth
    Mathieu,

    That is quite helpful indeed. I sorta realized after further browsing through your site and the comments page that you don't seem to favor one brand or the other. I think up to that point I don't think I had seen AMD on your site as it was not in the few builds I actually looked at.

    Anyways, it looks like the slight disadvantage in Premiere is worth the advantage in just about everything else. Also, limiting noise is a nice advantage to me as I will be using it for recording music as well.
  • Seth,

    Glad to hear that my comment helped you out. Indeed, I basically just favor whichever brand offers good performance at a low price, while being reliable of course. You could say that I'm "brand-blind" haha.

    Regarding your workstation, if I may suggest:
    If you want to limit noise further more, you'll want to consider a better CPU Cooler, such as the Cooler Master Hyper 212 +, a nearly silent cooler which adjust its speed automatically, based on the temperature of your CPU. While the included stock cooler that comes with the CPU does the job at cooling the CPU, I figure that you'll probably find it too noisy for recording music.

    Also, your case will also make a big difference in noise, depending on the quantity/speed of fans, as well on noise dampening material (or lack of.)

    The Antec Three Hundred is pretty good in that matter, for its price, as it comes with speed-adjustable fans, allowing you to adjust them to low speed so they don't disturb you.

    If you don't mind investing a bit more, the LIAN-LI PC-K62 is even better, as it features rubber mounts at important spots (such as hard drives mount, power supply mount, etc.) to reduce vibrations. If you equip it with a 5.25" front bay fan controller, you can control each fan and adjust them to make your PC virtually silent.

    How do I know this? Simple enough, it's what I use (Cooler Master Hyper 212 + CPU Cooler, LIAN-LI PC-K62 and fan controller) for my own workstation in my quiet office. I just like to work in a quiet work environment and keep the window open to listen to the bids sing (or the freaking dog of my neighbor...) and the like. As for the PC, I know it's on because of the lights, definitely not because of the noise ;)

    You also have other options such as noise dampening material in some cases, such as the Antec P183, although that might be starting to get expensive for your budget, at $140 for the case, compared to $100 for the LIAN-LI PC-K62 and $70 for the Antec Three Hundred Illusion.

    If you have some questions regarding what I just said, how to reduce noise or anything else, let me know.

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
  • Seth
    Hi again Mathieu,

    Well I'm getting really close to ordering this thing, just double/triple/quadruple checking everything to make sure I get what I want/need. I figure I have the weekend to figure it all out but would like to get stuff shipped on Monday so I can get it in time for the last week of my schooling this summer.

    Nevertheless, I plan on spending less now and more later. For example: I'll probably stick with the stock CPU fan as well as the 4 gigs of RAM as that's what I can afford, but will likely update that over the next couple months (ah, the beauty of building a computer). Those things make sense especially to me because I don't have to upgrade exactly, just add. I will look into the case upgrades seeing as the lack of noise could be a seriously nice feature when the MIC's are recording.

    I've been looking around online and trying to find the best monitor to fit in my budget and I have been recommended to check out the "Dell SP2309W 23-inch Full HD Widescreen Monitor with Webcam". It's 23 inches and has a max resolution of 2048 x 1152. This level of resolution might be unnecessary but for $200 (on sale right now!) it's cheaper than most of the lower resolution Dell monitors that don't seem to be as good. I'm curious what your thoughts are on this unit. Is it all it's cracked up to be? What do I need in terms of video cards to run such a thing? If I decide to get a second one down the road, what would be necessary... another video card? Can I run a video card that doesn't support this resolution without negative effect?

    I have heard that Autodesk programs (Maya is what I use) are picky about video cards. The autodesk website has a list of approved graphics cards but they only list NVIDIA and ATI cards. My guess would be that they have a deal with these companies, but I want to make sure I have something that works. Do you have any advice/information regarding this?

    Right now I'm looking at upgrading to the i7-870 (as recommended) and going with the Corsair XMS RAM seeing as it's only $20 more. I'll probably upgrade the case after your pitch to me as well. Other than that, I'm still undecided on my graphics card and will plan on adding a CPU cooler, extra RAM, more hard drives, possibly a sound card, firewire ports, and likely an extra graphics card as I get more money.

    Thanks again for all your help.

    Seth
  • Seth,

    Indeed, that's the great thing about a custom PC, upgrading one is a piece of cake.

    Regarding the monitor, it has pros and cons. It has a big resolution at a low price, along with a fast 2ms reaction time, however according to reviews that I've read, the most common problems are:
    - Poor color accuracy (Needs to be adjusted out of the box)
    - Text can be hard to read, due to the high resolution on a 23" monitor.
    - The viewing angles are bad
    - Frequent dead pixels on arrival
    - Dell can be slow to ship
    - Light bleeding from the bottom of the monitor

    The only other thing that might cause a problem is the fact that it has a slightly nonstandard resolution, so some programs/games may not support full native resolution.

    Not saying that it's a bad monitor for the price, I just want you to be aware of possible issues.

    In my opinion, the ASUS VH236H 23" 1080p is a best choice. Its 1920 x 1080 (1080p Full HD) resolution is standard, so it's perfect for games (or HD content). Comes with VGA, DVI and HDMI output. Low 2ms reaction. Reviews for it are stellar as well.

    Best of all? While it's at $199.99, if you use the promocode ASUSLCDPROMO (on the checkout page) you save $36 instantly. Do note that the rebate ends tomorrow, 8/22. On top of that, you can claim a $20 Mail-in Rebate. So basically, it's $164 with the promo code or 144 after the Mail-in Rebate.

    Regarding Maya, approved cards and ATI/Nvidia: Simply enough, ATI and Nvidia are the two main players in the dedicated video card market, with Intel being used only in integrated graphic chips. Maya does support any modern Nvidia Geforce Or Quadro FX (Workstation level card) or ATI Radeon or FirePro (Workstation level card).

    This build features a Geforce GTX 460, which should be supported by Maya without any problem. Just make sure to update your video cards drivers straight from Nvidia website and to keep Maya up to date as well.

    Also, keep in mind that if you do plan on adding an extra graphic card later, you might as well get an appropriate Power Supply now, instead of changing down the road, since your power requirements will go up quite a bit with a second graphic card. The Seasonic S12II 620W would be a good choice, offering enough power now and for your future upgrades, while being efficient (80 PLUS Bronze certified) and silent. For $10 more, you can get the modular version here, which allows you to only plug in the power cables that you need, instead of being stuck with all the power cables connected by default that are not removable, resulting in less of a mess in your cable and making your life easier when it comes to cable routing.

    Hope that helps,
    Mathieu
  • Seth,

    I forgot to answer your inquiries about the video card. High resolutions displays are supported on any modern card, with ATI and Geforce now all supporting dual-display or even 3 or 6 displays at once, depending on the card. With a single monitor, even a 2560 x 1600 resolution (Found on 30" monitors for example) is widely supported.

    For a workstation, a single video card can actually enough, but this really depends on how demanding your particular requirements are. You can start with a single card and see how you feel about performance at that point.

    What you might want to consider actually in your case is upgrading to a Nvidia Quadro card, which is the workstation/pro version of Geforce cards, specifically designed for workstation type of work. For a detailed analysis on the differences between Nvidia Geforce and Quadro cards, see the NVIDIA Quadro vs. GeForce GPUs White Paper [PDF link]

    Do note that Workstation cards do not come cheap though, with decent models starting at $450+, with mainstream parts at $900+ and higher performance easily reaching $2k+. So unless you truly need/want a workstation card, you can stick with the consumer Geforce cards and either save money, or spend as much for a more powerful card.
  • Seth
    Hey Matheiu,

    Well first off, thanks again for all the help. I went with your suggestions in almost every case, upgrading many of the components to get a computer that's only $26 over my budget of $1200 (including monitor). The savings on the ASUS monitor really sold me on it (not to mention that it has plenty resolution for what I actually need). I'm sticking with the Gigabyte Geoforce GTX 460 video card with the idea that if I decide to upgrade down the road a bit to a Nvidia Quadro, I wont be out too much money. Those cards seem really tempting, but unfortunately out of my budget at this point. I'm going with the Seasonic M12II 620 Modular power supply and the Lian L1 Lancool PC-K62 case as your description there was too good of a sell.

    Appreciate your help and I'll be in touch as I'm looking to upgrade my components.

    Thanks again,

    Seth
  • Seth
    Hi Mathieu,

    Well much of the computer building process has been completed yet I have run into a small issue. It seems the motherboard is only capable of supporting two extra fans yet this case has four. Any suggestions here in terms of how to get all the fans hooked up and/or what fans I should use if I can only hook up two of them?

    Thanks,

    Seth
  • Seth,

    Simply plug the two other fans using the larger, 4-pins connectors, that will be found on a wire coming from your power supply. Just to reassure you, it makes no difference whether you plug your fans on the motherboard or on the power supply.

    Hope that helps,
    Mathieu
  • TnWGamer
    Oh yeah and sorry for asking the same question (that one about "can it run crysis"?) just saw the answer.
    ty
  • TnWGamer
    Is there a huge difference between this build and the 700$ one? I mean, both of the builds have the same graphics card, amount of memory, power supply, etc :)
    Another thing, can both builds run tough games like Crysis at max settings?

    All help is appreciated :D
  • Seth
    From what I can tell looking at both, this build basically has a better processor as the only difference performance wise, but it is also much better if you think you want to upgrade later, graphics card wise especially.
  • TnWGamer
    Thanks for your help. Actually I own a Celeron-based PC (which is very limited for gaming, even with OC) so I really want a different system that can be powerful and upgradeable for an affordable price. Your observations helped me decide to get this build, thanks again.
  • CompyHopeful
    I have to say, this computer build looks great! I do have a question, though. If I'm planning to run games on 1440x900, will the recommended graphics card be able to turn on anti-aliasing on most games?
  • CompyHopeful,

    At 1440x900, the Geforce GTX 460 1GB will have no problem handling ANY game, whether it's Crysis, Metro 2033 or any demanding game that you can think of, with maxed out details as well as AA/AF.

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • CompyHopeful
    Thanks! It really gives me peace of mind that the computer will run that kind of stuff on 1440x900.

    I have another question if you don't mind. I don't have much space where I'll put the rig, so I'm wondering what are the smallest cases you can recommend to safely accommodate all the components, seeing as I don't need a case with like 6 HDD slots anything like that. Of course, if you picked those cases due to temperature, etc., then that's OK.
  • CompyHopeful,

    You can go with a smaller case, but you'll have to change the motherboard.

    Seeing as you're going with a single video card, the Gigabyte GA-P55M-UD2 Micro ATX would be my recommendation, as it's reliable, offers plenty of connections and is relatively inexpensive at $105.

    For the case, I offer you to choose between the following three cases. Any of them will do, from a compatibility/cooling point of view, so simply pick whichever you prefer ;)

    1- NXZT Vulcan - Most inexpensive at $70 and the best from a cooling point of view (120mm top orange LED fan, one 200mm side fan, and a front 120mm intake fan, plus the extra large mesh holes on side panel). Note that it includes an handle that you can choose to install or not. Dimensions(L x W x H): 16.00" x 7.00" x 16.60"

    2 - LIAN LI PC-A05NB - Very light and good looking, thanks to being made out of aluminum, which is brushed on the outside. Priced at $90. Dimension(L x W x H): 19.29" x 8.27" x 15.00"

    3 - Silverstone TJ08-B - This is the smallest one out of the three, at (L x W x H) 14.88" x 7.68" x 15.00", but also the most expensive at $95.

    If you'd ask me, I'd personally go with the NZXT Vulcan, since it's the most inexpensive and has the best cooling out of the three. However, the decision is yours and as I said earlier, any of three will do a good job of hosting your build and keeping it cool.

    Finally, while the recommended Silverstone power supply will fit in any of the three cases, I'd recommend upgrading to the SeaSonic M12II 620 Bronze Modular (There's a link to it in the post).

    Why?
    Because it's modular, which means that you only plug in the power cables that you need, instead of being stuck with all the cables that comes installed with the power supply by default and cannot be removed.

    While this won't affect performance, it will make your life way easier when it comes down to cable routing, since you won't have a bunch of unneeded power cables laying around in your case. Seeing as you're getting a smaller case, I'd definitely recommend going the modular way, with the SeaSonic M12II 620 Bronze Modular.

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • CompyHopeful
    Thanks for all the help! I decided to go with the Vulcan due to the great cooling, inexpensive price and a really nice design. I can't wait to get my hands on building this rig!
  • Seth
    Its kind of funny, I started out building the $700 computer, and as i kept thinking about it and looking around, I ended up with pretty much exactly the same computer as the $850 build, aside from the seasonic s12II 620w (n82e16817151096) I added and the 1tb hard drive which was only $8 more than the 500gb (n82e16819115215). For anyone wanting to build this, keep in mind there is a bundle for the processor and the motherboard together, and another bundle with the case and the ram together on newegg. (466031) and (469343)
  • Seth,

    The recent price cuts on the Seasonic S12II 620W and the Samsung F3 1TB make them even better deals than before, for top-notch components. I have two of those Samsung F3 1TB in RAID 0 and they rock. Over 300MB/s transfer rates and I can't hear a thing coming out of them.

    Bundles (Combo Deals) are indeed a great way to save money, I used to recommend some back in the days here on HR, but I stopped, since they don't last very long and it's impossible for me to keep up with them.

    In any case, thanks for sharing this info with other readers looking forward to build their own PC. How's your own PC advancing? Let me know if you need help with anything.

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
  • Seth
    I was just wondering... If I was to install a wireless card into the computer, how/where would I do that? Or is it already integrated into another part? This kinda seems like a stupid question, but I was wondering now if it was better/easier/cheaper to put wifi in, or if its already in, or if its just best to have a plug in wireless to wired product.
  • Seth,

    The best way to implement WiFi would be a PCI add on card, that you would
    insert in a free PCI slot.

    Usb 2.0 sticks are also an option, although the reception and speed won't be
    as good as with a PCI card.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Seth
    Any Suggestions? I'm using the ASUS Maximus III GENE LGA 1156 P55 Micro ATX.
  • Seth,

    Assuming that you might be using/intending to use(future upgrade) both PCI-Express 16x slots for Crossfire or SLI, better go with a USB stick.

    This USB stick will do the job.

    Just a tip: Plug it on the front of your case, or use an USB cord extension to make sure that your stick is well positioned for optimal reception.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • SamXD
    I have a question. I don't understand CPUs as well as video cards but, if a game needs a for example double core 2.8ghz, and i have the quad core 2.66, would i be able to run a game like that? Will the extra cores take over the .14ghz needed for the game? Or would I need to get a quad core with a better ghz?
  • SamXD,

    If you are referring to game requirements, you'll be just fine with a quad-core running at 2.66. Your two additional cores will make up for it, it's only a small difference anyway, nothing to worry about.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Sacred_G
    Hey great website, I have been wanting to build a computer for awhile and this site has been fantastic. I am not looking to build real soon but maybe in a few months to half a year. Just wondering when you think a new complete update of your setups will be around?
  • Sacred_G,

    I try to update the builds every few months and/or when a major release of
    new CPUs or Video cards ( New series ) happens and requires me to update the
    builds ASAP.

    For your information, when I update an older version of a build, it
    automatically redirect you to the latest version of it.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Lucas
    I'm not sure if this question has been asked before, or if you can even answer it, but how future-proof is the base build, is there something I can do to make sure this will last with games for a few, or many years to come?
  • Lucas,

    While I can't give you an exact answer as to how future-proof the build (Example: I can't tell you that it will last 3.5 years), since this will vary greatly depending on your monitor resolution (The higher it is, the more demanding it is on your PC), the games that you play now/will play in the future (I can't predict how demanding future games will be ;) ) and what levels of graphic details that you want as a minimum, I can tell you that this is a fairly powerful mainstream gaming PC that will have no problem handling any current game at 1920 x 1080 with maxed or nearly maxed-out details.

    If you play on an average sized 20"-22" monitor (1440 x 900 or 1680x1050) and play the average game with average quality settings, you can easily pull a good 2-3 years out of this system and stretch it to 4-5 years by lowering graphic details.

    If you play on a 1080P Full HD (1920 x 1080) 22"-24" monitor with maxed out details on the latest games, you'll have to upgrade in 1-1.5 years, if not even less, depending on the game.

    In order to future-proof your system, you need to know what matters the most when it comes to gaming performance, which is the Video Card(s), CPU and RAM, in that order. The motherboard and power supply also matter to make sure they remain compatible in the future and capable of handling future components.

    For example, to future-proof this build, I left open the option of adding a second GTX 460 in the future, by making sure that the motherboard is SLI compatible.

    As long as your CPU doesn't become too much of a bottleneck, you can just upgrade the video card(s) to give a second life to your Gaming PC, without upgrading the rest of the system.

    RAM: Games demand more and more RAM and eventually, 8GB will be the minimum that you'll want. Make sure that you can add more RAM to your system in the future.

    An easy way to future-proof the CPU is simply by overclocking it. With a good CPU Cooler, the Core i5 and i7 CPUs are amazing overclockers, often reaching close to or over 4GHz, which will make the CPU capable of handling future games for longer. Video Cards can also be overclocked, with some models overclocking better than others.

    Now, keep in mind that if you want to possibly upgrading to two video cards, a more powerful video card, overclock the CPU/Video Card(s) or all of the above, you'll need a power supply capable of feeding your upgraded and/or overclocked components.

    Since power supplies remain basically the same over the year, you can keep the same power supply for many years if you pick the right one to begin with. By picking a power supply with power to spare, you won't need to upgrade it in the future and end up spending more in that case.

    However, the motherboard/platform will eventually become a bottleneck, since the two PCI-Express slots are limited to 8x/8x. While this isn't a problem with one or two Geforce GTX 460, it will become a bottleneck if you want to upgrade in a few years.

    To remove that bottleneck, you can move to a motherboard with the X58 chipset, socket LGA 1366 and the Core i7 930 processor. Make sure that the motherboard supports SLI to leave open the second Geforce GTX 460 card option or for future upgrade. The X58 chipset platform also uses triple-channel memory, meaning that you need a three or six sticks kit of RAM.

    So to resume this:
    To be future-proof: Leave open the option of adding a second video card or upgrading it. Make sure you can add RAM in the future. Consider overclocking the CPU. Get a solid power supply. Considering getting a better motherboard with the X58 chipset, SLI support and 16x/16x bandwidth on the PCI-Express slots to make your build even more future-proof.

    To future-proof this build now:
    Upgrade to two GTX 460 in SLI. Upgrade the CPU Cooler to the Cooler Master Hyper 212+, get MX-2 thermal paste, overclock the CPU (Best intructions on how to do this will be found in overclocking forums, use google), upgrade the power supply to the Seasonic 850W. Get 8GB of RAM.

    To make it even more future-proof:
    Change the motherboard to one with the LGA 1366 socket and X58 chipset. Make sure that it's SLI compatible. Change the RAM to a triple-channel kit (3 x 2GB or 3 x 4GB to be more future-proof).

    While changing the motherboard and CPU for the X58 chipset/LGA 1366 socket platform will cost you even more to start with, you will end up saving in the long term, as your build will:
    A- Last a long time
    B- When it will finally need an upgrade, all you'll need to do is swap the two GTX 460 to one or two more powerful video card(s). Worse case scenario? In 3,4 or 5 years, you'll have to change the motherboard and CPU too, while keeping the rest of the build.

    If you stick with the P55 chipset/LGA 1156 platform, you'll be able to add a second GTX 460 but won't be able to upgrade the video cards afterward, as the motherboard will become a bottleneck with the limited PCI-Express 8x/8x bandwidth for the video cards.

    Obviously, I realize that money doesn't grow in tree, I'm simply suggesting what can be done to future-proof this build.

    If you tell me what your monitor's resolution is, what games you play now, what is the minimum level of details that you want and your budget, I can help you figure out what would be the most future-proof build within your budget.

    Hope that helps, I look forward to hear from you in the future.

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
  • jean-francois
    Good article, i'm still debating between a i5 and x6, they're both great cpu. But i might go x6 1045t + amd 3 870 chipset once the cpu is release....i think price performance features ratio is better on amd.

    1- Here's a interesting article about hdd, they include the latest version of the WD black as opposed to Tom's http://techreport.com/articles.x/19330/

    2- About your comment on cpu 'Unlike the AMD X4 965, you can upgrade the Core i5 750 to a faster CPU on the same socket without a problem.' but the i5 socket will be dead once sandy bridge gets here...am3 mobo will support new cpu architecture.

    3- That's a suggestion...but it would be interesting to have article about quiet computing buildup....it's usefull for htpc or general quiet computing needs.

  • Jean-Francois,

    For the Core i5 vs Phenom x6, it depends on what matters most to you. If
    performance (Higher FPS) is what matters the most, the i5 wins when it comes
    to gaming performance. The X6 is a good alternative for a good overall CPU,
    especially if you do a lot of video converting/editing, but you do lose some
    gaming power, not to mention that your system will also consume more power.

    Also, if you do decide to overclock, the Core i5 will overclock much more
    than the X6 and just get even more ahead of the X6 performance wise.

    First time I hear about the upcoming X6 1045t. Might be an interesting
    upgrade for myself (Got a X2 555 unlocked/overclocked to a X4 3.6GHz) since
    I do quite a bit of video converting, but whether or not it's worth it
    depends on its price. If it gets released for $150-$160, it might be a good
    upgrade option, but then again, that CPU isn't cheap to make for AMD.

    1. Thanks for the link to TechReport's HDD article, very interesting read. I
    see how the new WD Black is quite closer to the Samsung F3, although it's
    still quite more expensive and can't be used for RAID. Still good to know
    and it provides a good comparison for those who are interested. I'll be sure
    to use it as a reference for future articles.

    2. "am3 mobo will support new cpu architecture." As far as I know, this has
    not being confirmed by a reliable source yet. AMD might just change their
    socket as well and if they do and you have a X4 965, you can't get any
    better, while with a Core i5 750, you can get an i5 760, i7 860, 870 or
    875-K

    3. Good idea, I'll keep that in mind, although I'm not making any promise,
    I'm already booked for quite a while with all the work that I have to do on
    HR.

    Thanks for your comment and I look forward to hear from you in the future.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • jean-francois
    Interesting, i didn't knew about the raid issue for WD....i'm not planning to use raid anyway. Once SDD goes down in price i'll upgrade to this. From a pricecanada search they are 12$ more but you get an extra 2y of warranty....i don't think i'll notice the performance difference :)
  • Jean-Francois,

    Yep, WD requires you to use RAID-edition drives for RAID, with an higher price of course.

    I'm also waiting for SSD to come down in price, I'm probably thinking of picking up one for a laptop later this year or in early 2011.

    Good point about the warranty, if 2 years of warranty are worth the $12 to you, might as well get it.

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
  • Hjsharkey23
    Hey, I am seriously considering building this pc thanks to your help. I was just wondering if this pc could edit HD video. I bought an HD camcorder a year ago, and I'm not planning on doing any major fancy editing or anything like that, but i was just wondering if i could upload the videos to youtube. Also, i own an Happauge HD PVR which i use to record my Xbox 360 and some tv shows. Would that work? Thanks a lot.
  • Hjsharkey23,

    This PC will have no problem at all handling HD Video as it is, although if you want even better performance with HD Video, you'll want to upgrade the CPU to one of the two Core i7, as they offer Hyper-Threading, which will significantly improve performance with HD Video.

    It's not necessary, but like I said, it will improve performance quite a bit with HD video.

    As far as I know, the Happauge HD PVR has an USB 2.0 interface that you can use to connect it to your PC, so that won't be a problem.

    Hope that helps, let me know if you other questions.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Hjsharkey23
    Thanks a lot. I'm definitely going to build either this or the $750 gaming build within the next month, I'll be sure to let you know how it went after I complete it, as well as donate you some money. Thanks again.
  • Sounds good. Let me know if I can be of any help in the process or if you have other questions.

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
  • John
    I'm going to have to agree with aloha and the site being amazing, first off. Next, I have a question. I realize the $850 is top notch for its price range, but my question is, would it be better to build your base $850 build from this page or your $700 build with one of the X4 BE processors, one of the alternate recommended motherboards and an upgraded power supply? If it applies, when all is said and done, I'm hoping to run Dual GTX 460's in SLI and *maybe* more ram for further future-proofing.
  • John,

    If your goal in the end is to run two GTX 460 in SLI, you're better off, hands down, with the $850 base build compared to the $700 Build, even with said upgrades, from a performance point of view.

    The Core i5 processor in this $850 in this build offers much better performance compared to any AMD X4 processor and this performance gap will most likely just widen if you introduce SLI in the mix.

    As I mention in the articles, you want to balance the CPU and GPU, otherwise one will bottleneck the other. Basically, the i5 in this build will allow the two Geforce GTX 460 in SLI to reach more their full potential than any X4 could.

    The motherboard doesn't affect performance that much, it's mostly about the features that it supports. As for the power supply, you can upgrade that appropriately in any build.

    Makes sense?

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
  • John
    That makes perfect sense, and I cannot say thank you enough for your help.
  • Aloha
    Wow, John, i was just about to ask the exact same question! Thanks for answering Mathieu.

    Oh and Mathieu, I had a look at the $700 build. With prices as they are down here, it only turns out a bit cheaper than the $850 build. (very strange) And, eventually i would like to run 2 GTX 460s in SLI too. So i'm better off saving my money and going for the $850 build.
  • Aloha,

    Yeah, prices varies from one place to another, based on offer and demand, amongst other things.

    In the end, it's probably a good thing for you; the $850 Gaming Build is a big step up from the $700 one and will last you longer while offering significantly better performance.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • aloha
    Hey, just wanted to say, your website is amazing. It has some great advice for anybody looking to build a computer. Hopefully I can build this $850 PC soon - things cost a bit more down this end of the world, and I'm poor!
  • Aloha,

    Thanks for the kind words regarding the website, I'm glad that you like it.

    If $850 is a bit too much for you, know that I offer various other Gaming PCs, starting at $400.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Ken
    Mathieu. Awesome Site!!!! Thanks for all the hardwork and info. You've inspired me to build a computer. I'm interested in building own computer because 1) i want to save money 2) have the best bang for the buck 3) learn something. If you have time I have a couple questions....

    A) Why would I want the $400 vs $850 (or whatever) gaming computer? It would be nice to be able to see what kind of performance enhancements i'm getting for the extra mulah!
    B) Essentially, I don't know how much money I SHOULD spend. I'm fortunate enough to be able to afford a kick ass computer, but really dont want to spend money stupidly. Which is why I LOVE your site.

    I seem to have little time for games these days but my current computers are acting so slow they're making me angry. I need a computer that does basic stuff (music, internet, photo management) but if I'm spending the money, why not kick in extra money "just in case" i want to play some PC games {my gaming time is currently on consoles, but frankly, I hate FPS games on consoles if given the choice between PC and console}. I don't know my monitor resolution since I am out of town- I'll look it up when I return.
  • Ken,

    Well, thank you for all the kind words about the website. I'm happy to hear that I've inspired you to build your own PC, I'm sure that you'll enjoy the process and will end up proud of a job well done.

    Regarding your questions:
    A- Basically, the more than you spend, the more that you can play highly demanding games, at higher settings, on a bigger monitor(if not multiple monitors) at higher resolutions (Higher resolution = You see more "information" at once on your monitor). So, the $850 Gaming PC is capable of handling games that the $400 Gaming PC would struggle with and will play games that the $400 can handle, but with an higher resolution and/or higher details. Basically, a more expensive Gaming PC gives you access to more demanding games, at an higher resolution, with more eye candy.

    Also, spending more on a more powerful gaming PC helps with making it future-proof, so it can play future, more demanding, games without any problems.

    Now, that's over simplifying, but it gives you an idea.

    B- To figure out which Gaming PC would suit your needs to best, I suggest that you make a list of games that you would like to play. Using the list, do some research on Google/game forums, find out which game is the most demanding and see, according to your monitor resolution, what current gamers/reviews recommend as a setup

    Example: Gamer XYZ says that he plays ABC game at 1440 x 900 with a Radeon HD 5750 and that it runs smooth. But Gamer HGZ plays the same game at 1920 x 1080 with the same Radeon HD 5750 and say that his gameplay isn't so smooth. That was just an example, but that would tell you that you need more power than what a Radeon 5750 offers.

    Playing a game at an higher resolution is more demanding, hence why you need a more powerful Gaming PC, hence why knowing the resolution of the monitor that you'll play on is so important to figure out which Gaming PC to get.

    What you can do too when you've figured out the most demanding game, is google "Gamename benchmarks resolution", for example:
    Crysis benchmarks 1920 x 1080

    You'll be able to find various articles/reviews/forums posts with information.

    Do this and you should be able to quickly get a grasp on what kind of performance level that you need to play the most demanding game.

    Of course, you'll need your monitor resolution for that ;)

    From there on, I should be able to quickly guide you/help you figure out which Gaming PC would be the best for you.

    Hope that helps you, let me know if you other questions / when you have additional info.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • John
    I just recently started thinking about building my own pc because all of the retail ones lack something. I find these guides to be extremely helpful. I do have a few questions, though. They might sound stupid because I only just recently started looking about building a computer, but I want to make sure building a computer to my specifications is possible.

    First off, I don't really need a super high end computer. I only plan on playing Starcraft II at the moment, and I hear that it isn't too taxing on computers. I was thinking about getting an ATI Radeon 5670 because I think that this card will be able to play Starcraft II at relatively high settings (correct me if I'm wrong). I also want one of Intel's Core I series processors because I hear for just doing everyday kind of things, the Core I series is better than AMD's Anthlon. I looked at your other guides and they all had the AMD processor and this guide was the first one to have a Core i5 processor. I am just wondering if with the motherboard you recommended in this build would work with maybe a weaker Core i5 processor or even a Core i3 processor and whether putting in an ATI Radeon 5670 would work also. Again, these questions might sound stupid or might not make any sense at all, but I have just started to look at making my computer. I am also trying to minimize the cost as much as possible (hopefully to $500 or $600). I would love to hear some feedback. Thanks!
  • John,

    No worries, there are no stupid questions here, we all had to start at one point. I couldn't agree more on retail PCs, I personally love being able to choose what goes inside my PC and know what's inside of them for future reference.

    As I tell my readers, taking your time to figure out exactly what you need is a wise decision, you indeed don't need the best and latest in most situations. This is your PC, there's no rush, you build it when you want it, there are no pushy sellers here haha ;)

    First of all, to help you out, I'd like to know: What's the resolution (Not size, resolution) (Something like this: 1680 x 1050) of the monitor that you intend to play on? This will determine what level of hardware that you need.

    Assuming that you pick a reasonable resolution (1280 x 1024, 1440 x 900 or 1680 x 1050), the $500 Gaming Computer or preferably for 1680 x 1050, the $600 Gaming Computer will have no problem running Starcraft II with high settings.

    The Radeon HD 5670 could possibly run SC2, once again, that would depend on the resolution of the monitor that you will play on. Then again, I wouldn't recommend the Radeon HD 5670, simply because there are better video cards for the same price, as I point out in The Best Video Cards For Your Money: July 2010 article. At that price range, a Radeon HD 4850 will do a better job.

    Regarding the Core i series vs AMD Athlon:
    We are speaking of processors in completely different price ranges, basically comparing apples to oranges here. Core i3 CPUs start at $115, while the Athlon II CPUs start at about $60. Of course, if you compare a $115 CPU to a $60 one, you'd hope that it performs better!

    When it comes to getting the best performance for your money, also known as best bang for your buck, the AMD Athlon II win hands down, offering better performance than similarly priced Intel counterparts in the under $200 price range. Once you reach the $200+ price range, Intel wins due to superior performance. It may seems over-simplified, but that's pretty much how it is right now.

    My recommendations are based on whichever product offers the best performance and features at a given price. As you can see, the CPU in this build is priced at $195, exactly where Intel's CPUs start to beat AMD's CPUs when it comes to offering the best performance at a given price. In lower priced Gaming PC, AMD CPUs offer higher performance compared to similarly priced Intel CPUs.

    As I often say: I'm a huge fanboy. A huge fanboy of whichever company offers the best bang for the buck ;) This is reflected in my picks in the builds. Of course, this never comes at the price of reliability, I won't recommend a product that I wouldn't feel comfortable using in my own PC.

    I hope this answer your questions, let me know if you have more, it will be my pleasure to assist you.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • John
    Wow. Mathieu, your site is sooooo informative an soooo neatly laid out. I quickly found out that half of the questions I asked you had already been answered in your other articles!!! Haha sorry about that...

    I don't really know what my screen resolution is...my brother gave it to me a few years back so it can't be that great. In any case, I want to be prepared for a 1080p screen for the future.

    I got a preliminary build laid out. Surprise, surprise, it pretty much mimics your above build exactly except for a couple of things.

    Intel Core i5-750 2.66GHz LGA1156 95W Quad-Core
    GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 LGA1156 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0
    G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 CAS 9
    ATI Radeon 5770 (problem with it, though)
    Samsung F3 500GB SATA II 3.0Gb/s
    LITE-ON Black 24X SATA CD/DVD Burner
    SILVERSTONE ST50F-ES 500W 80 PLUS Certified
    Cooler Master Elite 310 ATX (nice looking case I found that is super cheap at around $40)
    2 SilverStone Case Fan Sleeve Bearing with 120mm 9 blades 26.6 Db FN121 (I chose these fans over the Rosewill you recommended only because these are black and will look better with the case, in my opinion; it got good reviews on amazon, too)

    So, basically, the only thing I am changing in your build is the graphics card and the case. As I saw in your article pertaining to the best video cards, the 5770 seemed like the perfect fit for me. Its got a lot of power at a pretty decent price. However, as I was researching which 5770 to get, I found out that there has been a lot of issues with it, especially with the companies Sapphire and XFX. It seems like this graphics card has been causing systems to crash unexpectedly a lot. I was just wondering if you had heard anything about this issue and whether it has been resolved or not...

    One more question: Do you think I need a fan on top of my motherboard (excuse my noobish phrasing haha; I have no idea if there is a specific name for this kind of fan but it sits on top of the processor, I think). With the Cooler Master Eilte 310 ATX case, the case only comes with one 120mm fan in the back but has two optional 120mm fan spots (one on the side and one in the front). I plan on buying 2 more fans and placing them in the optional spaces, but I am wondering if I need any more fans. I don't plan on overclocking my CPU because I don't really have a need to and don't know how to :). I know heat is pretty important to consider, and one fan doesn't seem like its going to be enough to keep the whole computer cool. Three will hopefully be better, but I am wondering if I should take the extra step an get another one for the processor.

    Once again, I got to thank you for all the help. Your site has been so informative and well written that I am simply amazed that you are the only person who works on this site. Just everything about it works...everything is neatly laid out, it has the most important information in it, and it is all up-to-date. I'll make sure I tell all my friends about it and donate if I have any money left after building this PC :).
  • (Sorry if you get two notifications in your e-mail inbox, I deleted my first reply by mistake.)

    John,

    No problem about the questions, it happens all the time ;)

    1080p most likely is higher/more demanding than what you have now, so we can use that as a baseline to figure out a build that can handle your current monitor and that 1080p monitor in the future.

    Regarding your build:
    The Radeon 57xx and 58xx had some issues early on, especially with Windows 7 64-bit. As far as I know, this has been resolved by newer drivers release from AMD. This avoid this, make sure to download the latest drivers directly from AMD's website, not from the included CD. Your video card will still function without drivers before you grab them on the website, it just won't be optimized for games.

    In any case, in my opinion the Radeon HD 5770 is a tad too weak to play at 1080p without any problem and this will get just worse with newer video games. I'd highly suggest upgrading to a much more powerful Geforce GTX 460 1GB instead, which will simplify your life regarding the driver issues anyway.

    Regarding the "fan sitting on top of the processor", you're most likely referring to the CPU Cooler, aka the big chunk of metal with a fan sitting on your processor ;)

    The CPU includes a CPU Cooler, that needs to be installed to cool down the processor. That CPU Cooler will do the job just fine if you don't overclock, so no worries here.

    The two additional case fans that you intend to buy will do the trick, with three 120mm case fans, you'll have enough airflow to keep your PC at reasonable temperatures.

    Yeah, needless to say, managing this website (Server, comments, e-mails and oh, you know...articles! Not to mention all the reading/research required.) is my full-time job.

    It's a lot of work, it can be a bit overwhelming at times, but I wouldn't trade this job for another, because I enjoy helping out people build their own custom computers, save money in the process and be proud of a job well done in the end. =)

    I'm glad that you're enjoying the website and that you'll recommend it to your friends. As for the donation, it's not mandatory, but anything is much appreciated, as it's part of what helps me pay for the bills ;)

    Let me know if you have other questions.

    Cheers,
    Mathieu
  • Herka Derka
    can this rig play modern games?
  • Most definitely, it can play pretty much any game at 1920 x 1080 with high details.
  • Marc
    I got sales-talked into buying a BFG GS 550 for this. The reviews for it seem to be good, but reading your article on power supplies worries me. Will it be sufficient for this build?

    I've held back on assembly so that I can return and purchase a different PSU instead.

    The differences from the main build are that I got the i5 760 instead, the normal Antec Three Hundred, and WD 500GB Caviar Blue.

    Thanks! Your guide was very helpful. I was initially going for the Athlon II x4 635 + HD Radeon 5850, but then I was told that the GTX 260 would be better and yeah, when I checked this site again there was this update so I changed the cpu and motherboard too.
  • Marc,

    After doing some research, I'd highly recommend returning that BFG GS 550, it's nothing more than a re-badged low-quality PSU, barely capable of sustaining a 400W load. In short: Not something that you'd want to use with this relatively powerful build!

    Get yourself the Silverstone or one of the Seasonic units above.

    By the way, whoever told you that a Geforce GTX 260 is better than a Radeon HD 5850? That person must be smoking some good stuff ;) A Radeon HD 5770 performs on par with a GTX 260, while a Radeon HD 5830, let alone a Radeon HD 5850, outperforms a GTX 260.

    Unless you meant a GTX 460?

    Let me know if I can help you with anything else.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • Marc
    Sorry I made a typo without even realizing it. I meant a GTX 460 as in your recommendation. Like its a small downgrade for bigger savings. Ok I will be returning the PSU (it was only $30!). By the way how does the Corsair 650W or Antec EarthWatts 650W with the ones you are proposing in this updated version. I remember last time it was the Antec 650W. Thank you very much.
  • Marc
    I should proof read what I post more. Not sure how to edit the post.
  • Marc,

    No worries about proof-reading, typos happen, especially to me hah!

    Regarding the power supplies:
    - The Silverstone is a great reliable unit, good enough for this build without upgrades or much overclocking. Of course, compared to the Antec or Corsair 650W, it's not as powerful, but not as expensive either.
    - The SeaSonic M12II 620W 80PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular is one of my favorite power supplies, as it combines solid power delivery(very little power fluctuation), high effiency (80 PLUS Bronze, meaning that it’s always at least 82% efficient at 20% and 100% and 85% efficient at 50% load), modularity (Only plug in the cables that you need, resulting in less of a mess in your case.) and great price ($90).

    Compared to the Corsair: Same price, Corsair has 30W more but is less efficient. I personnally prefer higher efficiency to a mere 30W more. Also, the Corsair unit is not modular.

    Compared to the Antec: The Antec is $10 cheaper, 30 Watts more, but once again, it's less efficient and not modular(If my memory serves me right here.)

    In the end, for the same price as the Corsair and only $10 than the Antec, I'd go for the better Seasonic unit.

    Funny fact? Many Antec and Corsair power supplies are actually manufactured by Seasonic. Seasonic is more of an OEM manufacturer, but they do sell a few retail power supplies under their own brand, which are excellent and well-priced.

    Hope that helps.

    Cheers,
    Mathieu

    P.S. There should be an edit button next to the reply one, if you ever need it in the future.
  • Anman
    "Don’t let the lower frequency fool you, the Intel Core i5 750 2.66GHz has no problem beating AMD’s fastest CPU, the Phenom II X4 3.4GHz, despite the 733MHz disadvantage."

    The Phenom II X6s kill the i5 750 in performance according to PassMark benchmarks.

    http://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html
  • Anman
    Also according to those benchmarks the 965 also outperforms it. Though it does beat the 955.
  • Anman,

    Those "benchmarks" are nothing more than a chart is based on a synthetic benchmark, which, no offense to you, means nothing when it comes to real-life performance.

    As I pointed out in the post:
    The Core i5-750 outperforms the X4 965 in three out of four gaming benchmarks on Anandtech, with an average of 92.9 FPS for the Core i5 750 and an average of 87.1 FPS for the X4 965.

    While the Phenom II X6 does have the edge for video converting, the i5 750 outperforms any current AMD offering when it comes to gaming performance

    Here are various reviews of the i5 750 proving my point:
    - Techspot
    - Guru3D
    - Tom's Hardware #1
    - Tom's Hardware #2
    - Tom's Hardware #3
    - Tom's Hardware #4
    - Tom's Hardware #5
    - Tom's Hardware #6

    As you can see yourself, on average, the Core i5 750 either performs on par or close to the AMD Phenom II X4 965 in some games or simply clearly takes the lead in other games. Overall, that makes it a better gaming CPU in my opinion.

    Even the $300 Phenom II X6 1090T can't keep up with the $195 Core i5 750 when it comes to gaming performance, as proven here by AnandTech

    Sure, with video converting, the X6 1090T would crush the Core i5 750, but then again, this is a Gaming PC last time I checked ;)

    I hope this clarify my point of view.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
  • EBOBO
    "AMD’s fastest CPU, the Phenom II X4 3.4GHz"

    What happened to the X6?
  • EBOBO,

    I should have made myself more clear, I meant the fastest, frequency wise. Then again, gaming wise, the X4 965 and X6 1090T are pretty much are par, according to Anandtech.

    Hope this clarifies things.

    Take care,
    Mathieu
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