Budget Gaming PCs v3.7
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The EVGA Geforce GTX 660 2GB Superclocked, the video card newly recommended for Tier 2.
Click on a section to jump to it:
- Recommended parts summary
- Recommended parts in details
- Want more performance? See our Mainstream/High-End Gaming PCs
About Hardware Revolution’s Budget Gaming Computers:
Performance and reliability at a low-cost
With their low-cost, our Budget DIY(Do-It Yourself) Gaming Computers feature parts that were hand-picked to offer the maximum bang for your buck, or in other terms: to offer the best performance possible at a given price, while fitting within your budget.
However, these low-cost PCs are still designed with reliability in mind. They feature a safe, reliable power supply and a case with good cooling abilities, so that your PC will last you many years and to ensure that it will not overheat.
Tier System:
Instead of having several articles that each cover one specific build, there are Tiers, allowing you to pick one of several systems at broader price points.
The Tiers are color coded as such:
Choose from five Tiers:
Tier 0.5: (Identified by a Dark Red color): $320
This is our lowest cost Tier that’s perfect if all you want to do is play at 1366 x 768 or 720p with medium/high settings, older games, browse the Internet, watch some videos, listen to some music, do some Office work and the like, on a reliable and relatively quiet PC that doesn’t consume much power.
Tier 0.625: (Identified by a Red color): $371
This is our lowest cost Tier that’s perfect for playing games at lower resolutions (1366 x 768) with high graphic settings or higher resolution (1600 x 900) with medium settings. With an alternative motherboard and after-market CPU Cooler, both of which are recommended in this guide, Tier 0.625 can be overclocked to reach even higher performance, despite its rock bottom price!
Tier 0.75 (Identified by a Fuchsia color): $471
This is our lowest cost Gaming PC, which is fine for older games or more modern games at a low or medium resolution (1600 x 900 or 720p HDTVs). 1920 x 1080 should be playable too, although with lower graphic settings. With an alternative motherboard and after-market CPU Cooler, both of which are recommended in this guide, Tier 0.75 can also be overclocked to reach even higher performance, despite its low price.
Tier 1 (Identified by a Green color): $501
Great entry-level gaming machine, perfect for gaming at a 1680 x 1050 or 720p resolution. 1920 x 1080 should be playable too, although with lower graphic settings.
Tier 2 (Identified by an Orange color): $591
This Tier can handle most games at high/maximum settings at 1920 x 1080/1080p.
Need a Tier recommendation for a specific video game?
Ask us on the forums: Tell us about the video game, the level of details that you want (i.e. I just want to be able to play the game, medium, high or maximum details) and the resolution (e.g. 1920 x 1080. NOT the size) of the monitor (HDTVs: 720p or 1080p) that you’ll use.
Recommended Parts Summary:
Main recommendations, upgrades and alternatives:
1. Recommended Components are in Bold, with one or more colors/symbols for the Tier(s).
2. Suggested Alternatives and Upgrades are in Italic. You can upgrade as many parts as you want to, including parts from higher Tiers.
3. All Parts are interchangeable/compatible with each other, except for AMD CPUs that only work with AMD motherboards and Intel CPUs that only work with Intel motherboards. Smaller Mini-ITX and Micro-ATX cases that don’t support larger Micro-ATX and ATX motherboards respectively and may not support some large after-market CPU Coolers. Ask us on the forums if you want us to double-check your build.
4. If this is your first build and if you just a simple template to follow, stick to the recommended parts for a Tier.
Recommendations in details:
Motherboard:
Tier 0.5:
$48 – MSI A55M-P33 FM1 Micro-ATX: For Llano APUs
Compatible only with AMD Llano APUs, not AMD Trinity APUs nor Intel CPUs.
This motherboard offers AMD FM1 Llano CPU support and UEFI support at a great price ($47), making it an excellent choice for the lowest cost Budget Gaming PC Tier.
Despite its low cost, it’s equipped with solid capacitors for long-term reliability and it comes with a three year warranty.
It comes with VGA and DVI video outputs.
Ports, expansion slots, features, what’s included in the box, etc.
Ports on the back: Six USB 2.0 ports, two PS/2, VGA, DVI, Gigabit LAN and 6 Channels audio on the back.
Expansion slots: On the board itself, you have one PCI-Express 2.0 16X, one PCI-Express 2.0 1x and one PCI slot.
Other connectors/features on the motherboard: Three fan connectors (Two four pins, one three pins), six SATA 3.0Gb/s and three USB 2.0 headers.
Included in the box: Motherboard, two SATA cables, manual, CD with drivers/utilities and I/O backplate.
Tier 0.625:
$55 – ASRock FM2A75M-DGS FM2 USB3 SATA6Gb/s Micro-ATX: For Trinity APUs
Compatible only with AMD Trinity APUs, not AMD Llano APUs, AMD AM3 CPUs, nor Intel CPUs.
This motherboard offers AMD FM2 Trinity CPU support and UEFI support at a great price ($55), making it an excellent choice for the 2nd lowest cost Budget Gaming PC Tier.
Despite its low cost, it’s equipped with USB 3.0, SATA 6.0Gb/s, solid capacitors for long-term reliability and it comes with a three year warranty.
It comes with VGA and DVI video outputs.
Note that due to its limited amount of Phase PWM, it’s not the ideal choice for overclocking the Tier’s 0.625 unlocked APU. If you intend to overclock, consider one of the two alternatives below.
Ports, expansion slots, features, what’s included in the box, etc.
Ports on the back: Four USB 2.0 ports, two USB 3.0, two PS/2, VGA, DVI, Gigabit LAN and 6 Channels audio on the back.
Expansion slots: On the board itself, you have one PCI-Express 2.0 16X, one PCI-Express 2.0 1x and one PCI slot.
Other connectors/features on the motherboard: Three fan connectors (Two four pins, one three pins), six SATA 6.0Gb/s, one USB 3.0 header and three USB 2.0 headers.
Included in the box: Motherboard, two SATA cables, manual, CD with drivers/utilities and I/O backplate.
Alternatives
- $75 – ASRock FM2A75 Pro4-M FM2 USB3 SATA6Gb/s Micro-ATX: For Trinity APUs
- $80 – ASRock FM2A75 Pro4 FM2 SATA6Gb/s USB3 ATX: For Trinity APUs
Tier 0.75-1:
$55- Asrock 960GM/U3S3 FX Micro ATX AM3+
Compatible only with AMD Phenom II/FX CPUs, not AMD Llano/Trinity APUs nor Intel CPUs.
This motherboard offers AMD AM3+ support at a great price ($55), making it an excellent choice for Tiers 0.75 and 1 of the Budget Gaming PCs that are equipped with AMD AM3+ CPUs.
It comes with an integrated graphic processor, so that you can use your PC without a dedicated video card if necessary. This is great if you’re waiting to get your dedicated video card or to troubleshoot your PC if your dedicated video card isn’t working.
Note that while it is compatible with the 125W AMD Phenom II X4 965 recommended for this Tier, don’t expect to overclock it much with this motherboard, due to low number of power phase and lack of VRM cooling. See the alternative motherboard if you want one that offers good overclocking capabilities.
Also something to note: It features an IDE (PATA) port, allowing you to re-use your older IDE/PATA hard drives and/or optical drives.
Ports, expansion slots, features, what’s included in the box, etc.
Ports on the back: Four USB 2.0 ports, two USB 3.0 ports, two PS/2, VGA and DVI outputs, Gigabit LAN and 6 Channels audio on the back.
Expansion slots: On the board itself, you have one PCI-Express 3.0 16X, one PCI-Express 1x slot and one PCI slot.
Other connectors/features on the motherboard: Three fan connectors (Two four pins, one three pins), two SATA 6.0Gb/s, four SATA 3.0Gb/s, one IDE/PATA and two USB 2.0 headers.
Included in the box: Motherboard, two SATA cables, manual, CD with drivers/utilities and I/O backplate.
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Alternatives
- $103 – GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3 AM3+ ATX
– If you have the money, the GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3 is a great upgrade, providing excellent overclocking ability (provided you use an after-market CPU Cooler), a USB 3.0 header (so you can connect a case front panel USB 3.0 port to it), four RAM slots and six SATA 6.0Gbps ports. Note that it has no video outputs, so you must have a video card to use it. Also make sure your case can fit ATX motherboards.
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Tier 2:
$50 – ASRock B75M-DGS Rev.2.0 LGA1155 SATA 6Gb/s USB3 Micro-ATX: For Intel CPUs
Compatible only with Intel 2nd and 3rd generation of “Core” CPUs, not AMD Llano APUs nor AMD CPUs.
This motherboard offers Intel LGA1155 and UEFI support at a great price ($50), making it an excellent choice for the higher Tiers of the Budget Gaming PCs that are equipped with Intel CPUs.
It also allows you to use the integrated graphic processor (IGP) from the CPU, so that you can use your PC without a dedicated video card if necessary. This is great if you’re waiting to get your dedicated video card or to troubleshoot your PC if your dedicated video card isn’t working.
Ports, expansion slots, features, what’s included in the box, etc.
Ports on the back: Two USB 2.0 ports, twoUSB 3.0 ports, two PS/2, VGA and DVI HDMI outputs, Gigabit LAN and 6 Channels audio on the back.
Expansion slots: On the board itself, you have one PCI-Express 3.0 16X and one PCI slot.
Other connectors/features on the motherboard: Three fan connectors (Two four pins, one three pins), one SATA 6.0Gb/s, three SATA 3.0Gb/s, USB 3.0 header and two USB 2.0 headers.
Included in the box: Motherboard, two SATA cables, manual, CD with drivers/utilities and I/O backplate.
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Alternatives
- $90 – ASRock B75M-ITX LGA 1155 SATA6Gb/s USB3 Mini-ITX: For Intel CPUs
- $85 – ASRock Z75 Pro3 LGA 1155 Z75 ATX: For Intel CPUs
In short, if you intend to invest into your PC and upgrade it as time goes by, the last motherboard is as future-proof as it gets.
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CPU:
Regarding “Trinity”, the new 2nd generation of AMD’s APUs:
As you may have heard, AMD recently launched “Trinity”, their 2nd generation of their APU (Accelerated Processing Unit), a combination of a CPU and a relatively powerful GPU (video card) on a single chip, for the desktop platform. Featuring even faster GPUs, they are now fast enough in my opinion to be recommended for the Budget Gaming PCs.
Tier 0.5
$85 – AMD A8-3850 Llano APU (CPU+GPU) Radeon HD 6550D
Powerful APU at a low price:
The AMD A8-3850 is based on AMD’s first generation of APUs, Llano. It features a 2.9GHz Quad-Core CPU and the Radeon HD 6550D onboard GPU.
VS the competion:
Intel only offers dual-core offerings with rather underwhelming integrated graphic processor at this price range, hence why the AMD A8-3850 is easy to recommend.
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Tier 0.625:
$129 – AMD A10-5800K Trinity APU (CPU+GPU) with Radeon HD 7660HD
High-end APU at a reasonable price:
The AMD A10-5800K is based on the 2nd and latest generation of APUs, Trinity and features the Radeon HD 7660D onboard GPU. This is AMD’s fastest APU.
Relatively low cost:
While it may seem expensive when compared to the CPU recommendation for Tier 0.75 and 1, keep in mind that those Tiers also need a discrete video card, bringing up the cost way higher when you compare the Tier 0.625′s AMD APU ($129 for CPU and video card) to the Tier 0.75 ($200) and Tier 1 ($230) CPU and discrete video card combos.
For the AMD A10-5800K integrated video card performance and what you can expect of it, see the video card Tier 0.625 section.
Unlocked and ready to be overclocked:
Being an AMD “K” series processor, it is fully unlocked and can easily overclocked. However, for maximum overclocking potential, I recommend upgrading the motherboard to the recommended alternative for overclocking and I recommend getting the alternative after-market CPU Cooler.
If you overclock it, I recommend overclocking the GPU (video card) cores, as they will give a bigger performance boost in games vs overclocking the CPU cores.
Tier 0.75 and 1:
$85 – AMD Phenom II X4 965 AM3 Quad-Core 3.4Ghz Unlocked
VS the Competition:
Intel offers no dual-core + Hyper-Threading or Quad-Core CPUs at this price range and with games now taking more and more advantage of quad-core CPUs, you don’t want to settle for only a dual-core CPU.
The AMD Phenom II X4 965 is a 3.4GHz Quad-Core CPU and on top of that, it can easily be overclocked, thanks to its unlocked multiplier. If you do choose to overclock it though, make sure to upgrade the motherboard and CPU Cooler to handle the additional power draw and heat, in order to maximize the CPU’s overclocking capabilities.
Ideal for:
A budget Gaming PC, when you can’t afford faster CPUs.
However, if you have a bit more money to invest and can afford a Core i3-3220, then by all means, go for it. AnandTech’s bench tool clearly shows how much more powerful the Core i3-2100 is versus the Pentium G850 , the G850 being a slightly slower version of the Pentium G860.
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Tier 2:
$110 – Intel Core i3 3220 Dual-Core + Hyper-Threading 3.3GHz
Replacing the Core i3-2120:
Based on the 3rd generation of Core processors, codename “Ivy Bridge”, the Core i3-3220 replaces the Core i3-2120. While they both run at the same frequency (3.3GHz), the Core i3-3220 has a slight performance advantage (5-10%) and a slighly lower power consumption compared to the Core i3-2120.
VS the Competition:
While AMD’s APUs offer great performance for lower Tiers, when you start using a dedicated video card, the Intel CPUs just have the edge when it comes to performance in video games with a dedicated video card.
Don’t let the dual-core part fool you vs AMD “quad-core” processor available at the same price: Intel’s and AMD’s definition of a core isn’t the same thing any more so an AMD quad-core isn’t comparable to an Intel quad-core.
AMD’s FX line-up stand no chance either. While they offer competitive performance for multi threaded programs and workstations loads, the similarly priced FX-4170 just can’t keep up in gaming performance vs the Core i3-3220.
On top of that, the Core i3-3220 consumes about 100W less at load compared to the AMD FX 4170 and roughly 20 Watts less at idle!
Alternative:
For $60 more, you can upgrade to the $180 – Intel Core i5-3350P Quad Core 3.1-3.3GHz Turbo No IGP
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Video Card:
A few important recommendations and notes regarding video cards:
- Get the latest version of the video card drivers directly from AMD or Nvidia. That way, you’ll be sure to get the latest bug fixes as well as the best performance possible from your video card(s).
- Most video cards require one or two PCI-Express 6 or 8 pin power connector(s) to be plugged into them to function properly. Make sure that your power supply comes equipped with enough 6 and/or 8 pin connectors for your video cards. Of course, I double-checked that already for the recommendations in this article, I simply mention it if you decide to modify a build to your own taste.
- Looking for a monitor recommendation? Visit The Best Monitors For Your Money article.
Tier .05:
Free – Radeon HD 6550D – Integrated
The Radeon HD 6550D is the integrated video card featured on the AMD A8-3850 APU.
What games can this video card handle?
The Radeon 6550D is capable of handling the vast majority of games at 1366 x 768 or 720p with medium/high graphic settings. Older games should be playable with higher graphic settings.
The recommended motherboard has VGA and DVI video outputs.
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Tier 0.625:
Free – Radeon HD 7660D – Integrated
The Radeon HD 7660D is the integrated video card featured on the AMD A10-5800K APU.
What games can this video card handle?
The Radeon 7660D is capable of handling the vast majority of games at 1366 x 768 or 720p with high or maximum graphic settings and at 1600 x 900 with medium/high settings, although you might have to lower details for the most demanding games.
The recommended motherboard has VGA and DVI video outputs.
Tier 0.75:
$115 – Sapphire Radeon HD 7770 1GB
Replacing the Geforce GTX 550Ti is the Radeon HD 7770 1GB.
The Radeon HD 7770 HD outperforms the Geforce GTX 550 Ti in the vast majority of games and also consumes roughly 35 Watts less under load, resulting in also a more quiet card.
What games can this video card handle?
This card is capable of handling the vast majority of games at 1600 x 900, although you might have to lower details for the most demanding games. 1920 x 1080 should be playable too, although with lower graphic settings.
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Tier 1:
$145 – Sapphire Radeon HD 7790 OC 1GB
Replacing the previously recommended Geforce GTX 650 Ti is the Radeon HD 7790.
I’m recommending the Radeon HD 7790 over the Geforce GTX 650 Ti simply because it offers a a 12% performance advantage overall, it consumes roughly 12 Watts less under load and it’s more quiet at idle and under load, all according to AnandTech.
The Radeon HD 7790 will do the job at 1680 x 1050 and even 1920 x 1080 although you might have to lower details in more recent and more demanding games.
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Tier 2
$205 – EVGA GeForce GTX 660 SUPERCLOCKED 2GB
Performance:
Replacing the previously recommended Radeon HD 7850 1GB is the Geforce GTX 660 2GB
Thanks to price cuts, the Geforce GTX 660 is only $35 more than the Radeon HD 7850, and for that price, you get significantly higher performance, as well as a more future-proof video card, thanks to the 2GB of onboard memory, compared to 1GB for the Radeon HD 7850.
This particular EVGA card is factory overclocked, for even higher performance than the standard Geforce GTX 660.
The Geforce GTX 660 is capable of handling most games at 1920 x 1080, although you might have to lower details a tad in more recent and more demanding games.
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Need a monitor recommendation?
No problem, I invite you to visit The Best Monitors For Your Money article.
RAM:
Tier 0.5 and 0.625:
$38 – G.Skill 4GB (2 x 2GB) 1.5v DDR3 1866MHz
AMD Llano and Trinity APU performance under video games dramatically increase when using DDR3 1866MHz RAM versus slower RAM, which makes sense considering that the integrated video card relies on the system RAM for storing data.
In other words, it’s the exception to the rule that faster RAM usually doesn’t boost performance much.
Alternative
- $68 – G.Skill 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1866MHz
Tier 0.75, 1 and 2:
$37 – ADATA 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600MHz
4GB of RAM is pretty much mandatory to handle the latest video games along with Windows and background background such as your anti-virus, web browser, music/video player, etc.
Considering the price of RAM these days and the ever-expending memory use of games and programs, 4GB of high-speed DDR3 memory is a no-brainer.
I went with this particular kit from ADATA for their great low price and excellent reliability.
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Is it worth it to get more than 4GB of RAM?
Except for a few exceptions, according to Tom’s Hardware, current games and applications won’t take advantage of more than 4GB.
However, if you intend on keeping this Gaming PC for more than say, 2-3 years, I’d highly consider getting more than 4GB of RAM now, considering that RAM prices have never been this low!
Faster or More RAM?
Can’t decide between getting faster (Higher frequency) RAM, or more (More GB) RAM?
I recommend going with more RAM, as this will allow your PC to be more future-proof and it will improve its responsiveness when you’re using demanding programs/games.
In short: More RAM will give you more performance, in the long run.
Maximum amount of RAM: Motherboards in this guide that supports two sticks of RAM can be equipped with up to 8GB (2 x 4GB) of RAM and the motherboards that support four sticks of RAM, can be equipped with 16GB (4x4GB) of RAM.
If you want more than 4GB of RAM, here’s my recommended upgrade:
- $56 – ADATA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600MHz
– Inexpensive and reliable choice for a 8GB kit of RAM.
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Heatsinks and CPU cooler clearance:
Every kit that I recommend in this guide feature either no heatsinks or small heatsinks that don’t raise too much above the RAM sticks.
Why?
- Because RAM heatsinks barely make any difference when it comes to RAM temperatures. Besides, even if you overclock it/raise the voltage (at your own risk), RAM temperatures aren’t a problem as long as you have decent airflow in your case.
- Tall RAM heatsinks can get in the way of larger aftermarket CPU Coolers, preventing you from installing your aftermarket CPU Cooler!
Important: RAM can require manual configuration within the BIOS to reach its full potential or function properly!
By default, some RAM kits will boot at lower frequencies than they are rated for. This is perfectly normal, it does not mean that your RAM is defective.
You simply have to go within the BIOS/UEFI (The first thing that you see when your PC starts) and enable XMP, for your RAM to function at its rated speed. If XMP is not available or doesn’t work for some reason, you can adjust the RAM settings manually, such as frequency (In MHz, usually linked to the CPU, look for a CPU:RAM ratio), voltage (e.g. 1.50v) and timings (a series of numbers, such as 9-9-9-24). Refer to your motherboard manual and your RAM specifications for more information.
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Storage:
Tier 0.5, 0.625, 0.75, Tier 1 and Tier 2:
$57 – Western Digital Caviar Blue 500 GB SATA III
The Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB hard drive is available for $57 and it’s pretty much the least expensive reliable modern hard drive that’s available on the market right now.
SATA III hard drive on a motherboard with SATA II? Not a problem.
The SATA standard is backward compatible, meaning that SATA III hard drives will work on a motherboard equipped with SATA II.
As I explain below, this will not result in any performance bottleneck, seeing as no hard drive offers performance that’s high enough to be bottlenecked by a SATA II connection.
SATA II 3.0Gb/s vs SATA III 6.0Gb/s: No performance difference for hard drives!
SATA 3.0 Gb/s (SATA II) and SATA 6.0Gb/s (SATA III) refer to the speed of the connection between the drive and the motherboard.
However, the best hard drives reach about 210MB/s (or 1.68Gb/s) in best scenarios. SATA 3.0Gb/s is plenty enough to handle that and for hard drives, SATA 6.0Gb/s does not offer any performance advantage, since the hard drives can’t even max out a SATA II 3.0Gb/s connection.
Only SSDs take advantage of SATA 6.0Gb/s due to their higher transfer rates.
In other words, if you take two otherwise identical hard drives, the SATA III model will not be faster than the SATA II model. SATA III for hard drives is just a marketing scheme 
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Hard Drive alternatives:
- $67 – Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 64MB cache SATA III
– For only $10 more you can double your capacity and get one of the best performing and most reliable 7200RPM drives on the market.
- $115 – Western Digital Red 2TB SATA III
– Replacing the Samsung F4 HD204UI, which I no longer recommend now that it’s a rebranded Seagate hard drive and is thus no longer what I’d consider a reliable hard drive, is the Western Digital “Red” 2TB hard drive. While it’s optimized for NAS (Network Attached Storage) usage, it’s also an excellent hard drive for a desktop PC, offering great performance, great reliability being designed for 24/7 usage, low power consumption and noise as well as a 3 years warranty. Thanks to its 1TB platters, its performance is excellent, despite its lower rotation speed and low power consumption/noise, being capable of trading blows with the much more expensive Western Digital Caviar Black hard drives.
- $151 – Western Digital Red 3TB SATA III
– Same series as the drive above, but with 3TB of storage capacity.
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Solid State Drives
SSDs dramatically improve storage performance. SSDs are for you if you want:
- Much faster OS boot, Shutdown, Sleep and Hibernation
- Much faster program and game loading, meaning that you don’t have to wait as long for your program or your game to load.
- A system that feels more responsive.
Ideally, what you want to do is get a SSD to store Windows and your favorite (or most demanding) games, with the rest of your media/games on the hard drive.
Here are my recommendations, in order of storage capacity and price:
- $64 – Sandisk 2.5″ 64GB SATA III SSD
– 64GB is a great choice for a boot drive with a few games.
- $100 – Samsung 840 2.5″ 120GB SATA III SSD
– A high performance, reliable 120GB SSD that’s selling for only $100.
- $171 – Samsung 840 2.5″ 250GB SATA III SSD
– A high performance, reliable 250GB SSD that’s selling for only $171.
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Optical Drive:
All Tiers:
$24 – Lite-On SATA 24X DVD Burner
This drive is able to read and burn CDs and DVDs. Relatively silent (it obviously makes some noise when reading/burning at high speed), compatible with all major formats including DVD-RAM.
The motherboards for all Tiers includes two SATA cables, of which one will be used for the hard drive and one for this DVD Burner, so you don’t need an additional cable, unless you decide to add a SSD, another hard drive or another optical drive.
If you need additional SATA cables, we recommend this SATA cable: $3- 18″ SATA Cable w/Locking Latch
Upgrade for Blu-Ray playback and burning:
If you’d like to watch BluRay movies or TV shows and want the ability to burn Blu-Ray disks as well, then the $65 – Pioneer Black 15X SATA Blu-Ray/CD/DVD Burner
Regarding Blu-Ray playback:
As far as I know, you still require a specific software to playback Blu-Ray disks on a PC.
Based on various reviews and feedback on various forums, PowerDVD 13 3D Ultra is the software that I recommend to you. You’ll want at least the professional version for Blu-ray playback.
It is fully compatible with Windows 7/8 and shouldn’t give you any problems.
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Case:
Tier 0.5 and 0.625:
$30 – NZXT GAMMA Classic 1 x 120mm fan
- Cooling wise, this case includes one 120mm case fan, which is enough for Tier 0.5-0.625.You can also add five additional 120mm case fans (Two on the side, two at the top, one in the front) if you wish to.If you live in warm weather without A/C, adding a front 120mm case fan is recommended. See the cooling section for my case fans recommendations.
Features wise, you get:
- Plenty of ventilation holes, so your parts won’t starve for fresh air.
- 2x USB 2.0, 1x eSATA, Audio out, MIC in at the front.
- Various holes and space to route and hide your wires.
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Tier 0.75 and 1
$60 – Corsair Carbide 200R 2x120mm USB 3.0 x2
- Cooling wise, this case includes two 120mm case fans, insuring proper cooling for your Gaming PC. You can also add many more case fans if you wish to. Here’s what possible: (x5) 120mm/140mm fan mount locations, (x3) 120mm fan mount locations, Includes (x1) front-mounted 120mm fan and (x1) rear 120mm fan
Features wise, you get:
- Tool-free SSD, hard drive, and optical drive installation.
- The inside of the case is painted in black
- 2x USB 3.0, Audio out, MIC in at the top.
- An hole on the back panel, to easily install after-market CPU Cooler without having to remove the motherboard from the case.
- Various holes and space to route and hide your wires.
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Tier 2:
$70 – Rosewill R5 3x120mm USB 3.0 Fan Controller
A new case from Rosewill, the R5 is an excellent case for the price, offering a lot of features for $70.
- Cooling wise, this case includes three 120mm case fans, ensuring proper cooling for your Gaming PC. The R5 supports up to 10 fans (6 x 120 / 140mm + 4 x 120mm)
Features wise, you get:
- Removable top and front compartment panels with filter
- The inside of the case is painted in black
- An hole on the back panel, to easily install after-market CPU Cooler without having to remove the motherboard from the case.
- Various holes and space to route and hide your wires.
- 2x USB 2.0, 1x USB 3.0, E-SATA, Audio out and MIC in on top of the case.
- 6 internal drive bays that support for 2.5″ (e.g. SSDs and laptop hard drives) and 3.5″ drives.
- A fan controller to adjust the speed of the case fans.
Recommended alternatives:
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If you a want with a different look, more case fans, a smaller form-factor, an handle (LAN parties anyone?) and/or other features (e.g. fan controller, USB 3.0 front ports, etc.), take a look at my list of other recommended cases.
The vast majority of them are compatible with any Tier, although it’s always good to check the video card length clearance, CPU Cooler height clearance and the accepted motherboard form factors (ATX, Micro-ATX, Mini-ITX, etc.).
Of course, there are many other cases available on the market, so feel free to look at other options if you’re looking for something different.
Ask us on the forums if you have a doubt about whether a case is compatible or not with your build.
ATX cases alternatives: Compatible with ATX, Micro-ATX and some of them are also compatible with Mini-ITX motherboards:
- $35 – NZXT Source 210 Black 1x120mm
- $40 – NZXT Source 210 White 1x120mm
- $50 – NZXT Source 210 White Elite 2x120mm
- $45 – Rosewill Blackbone 3 x 120mm fans
- $40 – Cooler Master Elite 430 2 x 120mm fans
- $50 – COUGAR AF-2 Black & Army Green 1x120mm
- $62 – Cooler Master HAF 912 2x120mm
- $60 – Rosewill Line Glow USB 3.0 4x120mm
- $70 – NZXT Apollo 2 x 120mm fans
- $50 – NZXT M59 2 x 120mm fans
- $45 – NZXT Tempest 210 1x120mm
- $60 – NZXT Tempest 410 2x120mm
- $70 – NZXT Guardian 921 3 x 120mm fans
- $70 – NZXT Vulcan 2 x 120mm, 1 x 200mm fans + handle
- $70 – NZXT Lexa S 3 x 120mm, 1 x 140mm
- $70 – Cooler Master Storm Scout 1 x 120mm, 2 x 140mm
- $80 – Cooler Master Storm Enforcer, 1 x 120mm, 2 x 200mm
- $100 – Cooler Master HAF 922 Red LEDs 1 x 120mm, 2 x 200mm
- $100 – NZXT H2 H2-001-BK Black 3x120mm
- $90 – SILVERSTONE Precision PS06B-W 1x180mm 1x120mm
- $98 – Corsair Carbide 400r 3x120mm
- $50 – Rosewill Challenger Mid-Tower 2 x 120mm, 1 x 140mm fans
- $76 – COUGAR Challenger Black 1x120mm 1x200mm
- $81 – COUGAR Challenger Orange 1x120mm 1x200mm
- $110 – COUGAR Evolution Black Window 2x120mm
- $95 – COUGAR Evolution White Window 2x120mm
- $100 – Fractal Design Define Mini Micro-ATX 2 x 120mm fans
- $100 – NZXT Phantom 410 Black 1x140mm + 2x120mm fans
- $100 – NZXT Phantom 410 White 1x140mm + 2x120mm fans
- $100 – NZXT Phantom 410 Black Orange 1x140mm + 2x120mm fans
- $100 – NZXT Phantom 410 Gunmetal 1x140mm + 2x120mm fans
- $100 – NZXT Phantom 410 Red 1x140mm + 2x120mm fans
- $100 – Antec Eleven Hundred 1 x200mm + 1x120mm fans
- $60 – Antec Three Hundred Illusion 3x120mm 1x140mm fans
- $75 – Antec Three Hundred Two 1x140mm 1x120mm
- $120 – Corsair Vengeance C70 Black 3x120mm
- $80 – Corsair Carbide Series 300R 1x140mm 1x120mm
- $98 – Corsair Carbide 400R 3x120mm
- $100 – COOLER MASTER HAF XB Cube 2x120mm
- $100 – COOLER MASTER Storm Scout 2 Black 1x120mm
- $110 – Antec P280 Sound proofing panels and foam 3x120mm
- $80 – Fractal Design Define R4 Black 2x140mm
- $110 – Fractal Design Define R4 Window Black 2x140mm
- $110 – Fractal Design Define R4 White 2x140mm
- $120 – Fractal Design Define R4 Window White 2x140mm
- $110 – Fractal Design Define R4 Titanium 2x140mm
- $120 – Fractal Design Define R4 Window Titanium 2x140mm
- $119 – Corsair Carbide 500R Black 3x120mm 1x200mm
- $100 – Corsair Carbide 500R White 3x120mm 1x200mm
- $100 – LIAN LI PC-7HX 1x120mm 2x140mm Aluminum
- $130 – Corsair Vengeance C70 Black 3x120mm
- $120 – COOLER MASTER HAF XM 1x140mm 2x200mm
- $130 – Corsair Obsidian 550D 3x120mm
Micro-ATX cases (Only compatible with Micro-ATX and Mini-ITX motherboards) :
Note that some of them may not support larger after-market CPU Coolers, so pick a smaller CPU Cooler (see the cooling section for our recommendations) and preferably ask us on the forums to double-check your build to ensure that everything is compatible and will fit.
- $70 – NZXT Crafted Series Vulcan Micro-ATX 2x120mm
- $75 – SilverStone SST-PS07B Micro-ATX USB 3.0 2x120mm
- $84 – SilverStone SST-PS07W White Micro-ATX USB 3.0 2x120mm
- $100 – Fractal Design Define Mini Micro-ATX USB3.0 2x120mm
- $109 – Thermaltake A30 Micro-ATX USB 3.0 1x230mm 1x90mm 2x60mm
- $100 – SilverStone TJ08B-E Micro-ATX USB3.0 1x180mm 1x120mm
- $123 – LIAN LI PC-A04B Aluminum Micro-ATX USB3.0 3x120mm
- $100 – Fractal Design Arc Mini Micro-ATX USB 3.0 3x120mm fan contr.
Mini-ITX cases (Only compatible with Mini-ATX motherboards) :
Note that some of them may not support larger after-market CPU Coolers, so pick a smaller CPU Cooler (see the cooling section for our recommendations) and preferably ask us on the forums to double-check your build to ensure that everything is compatible and will fit.
- $90 – BitFenix Prodigy Black 2x120mm
- $80 – BitFenix Prodigy White 2x120mm
- $90 – BitFenix Prodigy Red 2x120mm
- $90 – BitFenix Prodigy Orange 2x120mm
- $110 – LIAN LI PC-Q08B Black Aluminium 1x140mm 1x120mm
- $120 – LIAN LI PC-Q25B Black Aluminium 1x140mm 1x120mm
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Power Supply:
All Tiers:
$38 – Antec VP-450 450W
The Budget Gaming PCs parts are fairly energy efficient and don’t feature very power hungry components, so you don’t need a power supply that’s very powerful.
However, the power supply is one of the most important components when it comes to the stability and reliability of a PC.
This is why I’m not cutting corners here, by making a recommendation for a fairly high-quality Antec 450W power supply.
Mind you, at $38, it is a very affordable power supply considering its quality.
It is capable of delivering up to 450W, but more importantly, 30A on the 12V lines, the most important lines for a power supply in a modern PC.
Note that if you intend on overclocking Tier 0.75, 1 or 2, you’ll want to upgrade to the 600W PSU recommended below. Tier 0.5 and 0.625 can be overclocked with the Antec VP-450.
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Upgrades:
- $56 – SilverStone Strider 500W 80 PLUS
– For $18 more, you get an additional 50W and a more efficient power supply that’s 80 PLUS certified.
- $65 – SilverStone 600W 80 PLUS
– For $27 more you can get an extra 150W. Ideal for overclocking Tier 0.75, 1 or 2.
- $75 – SilverStone ST50F-P 500W 80PLUS BRONZE Modular
– A more efficient power supply as well as a modular one to reduce cable mess. If you’re going to use a Mini-ITX motherboard/case, I highly recommend getting the set of shorter PSU cables below, so that you don’t have way too long cables in your smaller case.
- SilverStone PP05 Set of Short Cables for PSU
– A set of shorter cables for the SilverStone ST50F-P power supplies, ideal for Mini-ITX cases.
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Power Consumption:
How to calculate power consumption:
I recommend using the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator. Here are the settings that I used:
- CPU depending on the Tier, 90% TDP.
- Video Cards depends on the Tier, None if integrated
- Two sticks sticks of DDR3
- One regular SATA drive
- 1 DVD-RW/DVD+RW Drive
- 4 USB Devices
- 4 x 120mm regular fans
- System Load: 90%
- Capacitor Aging: 20%
A quick note about the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator:
While this is the main tool that I use to estimate power consumption, do note that sometimes, I’ll do some additional research on my own to verify these numbers. This is why you may notice that the numbers that I give below may or may not match what the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator gives you. In doubt, stick with my numbers or ask us on the forums.
Give your power supply some overhead:
While you can match a 650W PSU with a 630W requirement, it is good practice to add about 75-100W of overhead, so that your PSU doesn’t run at full capacity all the time, as that will reduce its lifespan, increase its chance of failure, increase its heat output and its noise output.
Estimated Power Consumption, per Tier:
According to the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator, with the settings that I described above, it is estimated that this system will require at load (peak usage), the following numbers. The minimum requirements are in Italic, while my recommendations (including overhead) are in Bold:
277W/350W with the AMD A8-3850 and the integrated Radeon HD 6550D (Tier 0.5).
277W/350W with the AMD A10-5800K with the integrated Radeon HD 7660D (Tier 0.625).
345W/450W with the AMD Phenom II X4 965 and the Radeon HD 7770 (Tier 0.75). Upgrade to the 600W PSU for overclocking.
360W/450W with the AMD Phenom II X4 965 and the Radeon HD 7790 (Tier 1). Upgrade to the 600W PSU for overclocking.
350W/450W with the Intel Core i3-3220 and the Geforce GTX 660. (Tier 2). Upgrade to the 600W PSU for overclocking.
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Cooling:
CPU Cooler:
All Tiers:
Stock Cooler
To save on costs, I recommend using the cooler included with the CPU.
While there are better coolers, the one that is included is good enough to keep the CPU at safe temperatures.
The recommended case includes one or several cooling fans as well to help you keep your system cool.
However, here are two reasons why you may choose to upgrade your CPU Cooler:
- To keep your CPU temperatures lower, which improves the reliability of your PC and the longevity of your CPU.
- To lower noise, as the stock cooler can get noisy at times, especially during prolonged work sessions, or in a warm room.
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Alternative:
$28 – Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is the improved version of the Hyper 212 Plus and now that it’s only $3 more than the 212 Plus, it offers the a better bang for your buck, offering great cooling performance and much lower noise compared to the stock cooler, for only $28.
Need help figuring out how to put the Thermal Compound with the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo?
Follow this tutorial, where they compare different methods to figure out the best one.
Thermal compound:
All recommended CPU Coolers include thermal compounds which are pretty good, so no need to spend more money on a tube of thermal compound.
Micro-ATX
- $35 – COOLER MASTER GeminII M4 120mm
– Recommended if you want an after-market CPU Cooler with a Micro-ATX case. Note that the Bitfenix Prodigy cases support the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO, so use that instead for those cases.
Mini-ITX
- $29 – COOLER MASTER Vortex Plus 92mm
– Recommended if you want an after-market CPU Cooler with a Mini-ITX case.
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CPU and Case Fans:
On the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO, you can add a second 120mm fan to improve performance.
If you want to add a different fan to your CPU Cooler, or simply want to add a case fan to help keep your computer components cool, here are my recommendations:
- $18 – CM Barometric Ball .6k-2k RPM 26-86CFM 13-30dBA PWM
- $10 – Rosewill 1.2k-2.2k RPM 43-87CFM 23-38dBA Blue LED fan contr.
- $12 – AC Fluid Dynamic .3k-1.35k RPM Max 57 CFM w/ 4 Pin PWM
- $17 – Silverstone 2Ball .8k-2.4k RPM Max 110CFM 17-40dBA fan contr.
- $19 – Noctua NF-P12 SSO .9k-1.3k RPM PWM
- $10 – Cooler Master 120mm Red LED Fan
- $10 – Cooler Master R4 Series Silent 140mm Fan
- $15 – 200mm Red LED fan for Cooler Master HAF cases
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Sound:
5.1 channels sound card: Integrated on the motherboard
Integrated with the motherboard, this sound card will handle many different sound setups, including headphones, a microphone and more.
While integrated audio on a PC used to be absolutely horrible, it has gotten much better in the last few years, thus why I have no trouble recommending it.
Recommended upgrade:
However, if you do want better sound quality, all the recommended and alternative motherboards (except the ASRock B75M-ITX Mini-ITX, see below) have space for a PCI sound card. I recommend the $30 – ASUS Xonar DG 5.1 PCI Sound Card
The only exception is the ASRock B75M-ITX Mini-ITX alternative motherboard for Tier 2, which has no space for an add-on card. If you want a better sound card, simply get the $43 – ASUS Xonar U3 USB Sound Card w/ Headphone Amplifier
Both are equipped with an headphone amplifier, with three settings in the control panel, which will bring out the best out of your headphones and speakers.
Speakers:
While I do not include speakers in the Tiers budgets, seeing as you may already own some or simply do not want any, here are some recommendations for great speakers at various price points:
Note that the power output is in RMS Watts, a more accurate measurement.
2.0 speakers: 2 satellites and no sub-woofer:
- $24 – Logitech X-140 2.0 5W
- $56 – Creative Inspire T12 2.0 18W
- $71 – Creative Gigaworks T20 Series II 2.0 28W
2.1 speakers: 2 satellites and a sub-woofer:
- $40 – Logitech Z313 2.1 25W
- $60 – Logitech Z323 2.1 30W
- $75 – Logitech Z523 2.1 40W
- $129 – Logitech Z623 2.1 200W
5.1 speakers: 5 satellites and a sub-woofer:
Headphones/Earphones
I do not include headphones nor earphones in the Tiers budgets, seeing as you may already own a pair or simply do not want any.
Also keep in mind that sound quality is subjective, so while these are some great recommendations, in my opinion, at their respective price points, those recommendations are based on my own research, not yours. I do recommend that you do your own research, to figure out the best headphones for your needs, based on the type of music that you listen to and the games that you play.
Open Design Headphones:
As the name implies, an open hear headphone means that it doesn’t cover or seal off the ear from hearing outside noises.
Pros: Enough airflow to keep your ears cool. On average lighter than closed design headphones. Resonance is significantly reduced providing better audio quality and a better audio experience.
Cons: You hear outside noises, so they can’t be used in noisy environments. They leak out sound, so they provide no privacy and can bother people that are close to you.
- $16 – Koss KSC75 Clip on headphones
- $45 – Koss PortaPro
- $53 – Superlux HD668B
- $79 – Grado SR-60i
- $100 – Audio Technica ATH-AD700
- $99 – Grado SR-80i
Closed Design Headphones:
These are the opposite of open design headphones. These headsets usually have larger ear cups that isolate the user’s ears from his surroundings and its design is typically meant to block out outside sounds.
Pros: 1- Closed ear cups that seal off the ear from the outside world so you can expect sounds not to leak in and out of the headphones.
2- You can enjoy exclusive audio entertainment particularly in a typically noisy environment.
Cons: 1- Due to the closed ear design, airflow is greatly minimized or prevented, producing more resonance and this can negatively affect the quality of sound.
2- Due to how they isolate you from outside noise, it makes you more vulnerable to accidents.
- $19 – Koss UR-20
- $44 – Audio-Technica ATH-M30
- $88 – Shure SRH440
- $130 – Audio Technica ATH-A700
– Usually $150+, currently at a great price.
- $107 – Audio Technica ATH-M50S (Straight Cable)
– There’s also the $102 – Audio-Technica ATH-M50 (Coiled Cable)
, non-S version, which comes with a coiled cable. I personally ordered myself a pair of the ATH-M50 a few months ago and I love them, they sound better than any other ~$100 headphones that I tried before and isolate fairly well from the sound. They are tight at first, so you need to “flex” them a bit. Of course, as in with any good pair of headphones/earphones/speakers, having a good source of source makes all the difference in the world. I use them on the laptop with an ASUS Xonar U3 and they are a great combo.
In-Ear Headphones:
Simply put, these are headphones that you insert straight into your ear, to create a seal between the headphones and your ears.
Important: Make sure to take your time to properly test the different size of included tips, to find the ones that best fit your ears. This will make all the difference between a poor sounding pair and a good sounding one.
Microphone:
If you want a dedicated microphone, to talk to your teammates online or for any other purpose, I recommend the $9 – Syba 3.5mm microphone with stand, which is an excellent low-cost option with perfectly fine audio quality and build quality (Well, unless you have an habit of throwing your microphone around after losing a game…
).
Personally, I recommend going for a pair of headphone with this dedicated microphone versus going with a headset that has a microphone, for two reasons:
1- The sound quality is on average superior with a dedicated pair of headphones and a dedicated microphone vs a headset at comparable price points.
2- If the microphone on the headset breaks down (and they do more often than not…), you’ll be stuck without your headset if you get it replaced, or either getting a new headset ($$) or a separated microphone. If either the headphones or the microphone breaks down, you still have the other that you don’t have to replace.
However, if you do high quality broadcasts such as podcasts, or you record music I recommend the $65 – Blue Microphones Snowball USB Microphone
Headsets:
Headsets are basically headphones with an integrated microphone.
If you go with an headset, make sure to check them all out, since they vary considerably in design.
- $13 – Yapster TM-YP100A
- $27 – Koss SB-45
- $58 – Corsair Vengeance 1100
- $44 – Sennheiser PC 151
- $57 – Razer Moray Plus
- $50 – ARCTIC Sound P531
- $84 – SteelSeries Siberia V2
- $95 – Logitech G35
- $84 – Creative Sound Blaster Tactic 3D Wrath Wireless
- $110 – Logitech G930
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Network:
Ethernet RJ-45 10/100/1000 Mbps LAN: Integrated on the motherboard
Integrated with the motherboard, this network adapter will allow you to access your local network and Internet, using a standard LAN (RJ-45) cable.
If a LAN network is not an option or if a wireless network is preferable for you, know this before you use wireless for a Gaming PC:
The problem with wireless is that:
- It’s not as reliable as LAN, with signals dropping out, interference and the like.
- It induces additional latency compared to LAN, which is the last thing that you want when you’re playing online, especially with first-person shooters.
In short, for reliability and getting a low ping, LAN is simply superior (and cheaper!).
If you understand that and still want to go with wireless, here are my suggestions:
I recommend two adapters:
1- If you want a fast adapter without spending a fortune, I’d consider the $20- Rosewill RNX-N180UBE Wireless USB 2.0 Dongle 802.11b/g/n w/ 5 dBi Antenna, which connects in a USB 2.0 port. It comes with a base, so that you can move it away from the PC for better reception and a 5dBi external antenna to improve reception further more. It support 802.11b/g/n, with transfer rates up to 300Mbps.
2- The best solution is the $35 – TRENDnet TEW-684UB Dual Band 802.11b/g/n 450Mbps USB2.0
Recommended wireless routers:
Need a wireless router too? No problem. Here are my recommendations, in an ascending order of performance and price:
- $26 – TP-Link WL TL-WR841N 300Mbps
– A great basic no-frill fairly reliable 300Mbps router.
- $52 – TP-LINK TL-WR1043ND 300Mbps USB
– Similar to the one above, but with an extra antenna and a USB port, to share a printer, storage, etc.
- $64 – D-Link DIR-645 300Mbps USB
– Higher performance than the TP-LINK TL-WR1043ND, hangs out with more expensive routers, but at a lower price.
- $99 – ASUS RT-N56U Dual-Band 600Mbps
– High-performance dual-band router, with great looks too!
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Recommended operating systems:
The operating system cost, if there’s one, is not included in the total cost. The two reasons for this are:
- The budget only considers hardware.
- You may be able re-use a previous license, go with an open-source OS such as Linux or, if you’re so inclined and are aware of what you’re doing, use torrents.
If you decide that you need an OS, here are some recommendations:
Windows 7
Despite Linux gaining more and more support, Windows still is the platform of choice for compatibility at the moment.
Considering that you’ll have 4GB of RAM or more, along with a dedicated video that also has memory (512MB or 1GB), you’ll need a 64-bit version, as 32-bit is limited to 4GB of memory for the entire system, which is not enough now, nor in the future if you decide to upgrade.
64-bit drivers are widely available for pretty much any devices nowadays.
Windows 7 is by far better than Windows Vista, looks better, more functional, less annoying, consumes less resources and brings DirectX 11 to the table.
Three Available Versions:
- Windows 7 Home Premium: The basic edition, with all the looks, most of the functionality and DirectX 11.
- Windows 7 Professional: If you want the virtual XP mode, you’ll need at least the Professional edition. Also required if you want to backup to a network, using the built-in backup mode in Windows. Also good to know: You’ll need at least the pro version to take advantage of Remote Desktop Connection.
- Windows 7 Ultimate: To help protect data on your PC and portable storage devices against loss or theft with BitLocker and to work and switch between 35 languages.
OEM Versions:
- Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit OEM SP1
– $90
- Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit OEM SP1
- Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit OEM SP1
Retail Versions:
- Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Retail
– $170
- Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Retail
– $292
- Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate Retail
– $330
OEM vs Retail:
The OEM version allows you to only install it once on a computer. You cannot transfer the license to another computer in the future and you do not receive support from Microsoft. It’s the same type of license you get when you get Windows on a desktop or laptop that you buy from Dell, HP and such. It’s less expensive, but gives less flexibility. Ideal if you intend on keeping your computer for many years.
The Retail version is the full version, which allows you to transfer the license to another computer in the future and you can call Microsoft if you need any form of support. Ideal if you intend on upgrading/changing your computer down the road.
Other than that, you get the same features on both, only the license differs. The price between the two differs obviously.
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Windows 8
Released on October 26th 2012, Windows 8 is Microsoft’s latest version of the popular Windows operating system. While it uses the same core as Windows Vista and Windows 7, visually it is a departure from these two OS, using colourful tiles and a look often referred to as “Metro”.
While you can switch back to the classic desktop look, “Metro” loads up by default. The “Start” button and menu are gone too. While this will irratate some users, it is possible to have the desktop load by default and it is also possible to bring back the start button and menu by installing third parties apps.
The vast majority of applications that ran on Windows Vista and 7 should have no problem running on Windows 8.
For more information on Windows 8, there are countless reviews of it available online that will do a better job than I can fully describing the changes that it brings to the Windows OS.
Let’s address the obvious question:
Should you use Windows 7 or 8 for your gaming PC?
While I welcome novelty and change, gaming performance doesn’t improve on Windows 8 and the “Metro” looks makes it less efficient to multi-task and switch back and forth between various open applications, which is problematic for some of us who use their Gaming PCs for everything.
More importantly, Windows 8 is a brand new OS, while Windows 7 has been around for three years. What this means is that Windows 7 bugs have been nearly all fixed, while Windows 8 is crippled with bugs, as any new operating system usually is.
Considering these two points, I’d sticking with Windows 7 for now. Don’t get me wrong though, Windows 8 definitely brings some good changes to Windows and it has the potential of being a great OS for gaming PCs, but it still needs some time to get its bugs fixed to be reliable enough for a workstation laptop. Perhaps when its first service pack (SP) will be released, Windows 8 will be the OS of choice.
Note that to fully take advantage of all Windows 8 features (such as secure boot) you will need a motherboard that features UEFI. All the recommended and alternatives motherboards in this guide feature UEFI, so no need to worry about that.
To find out more about Windows 8, I invite you to read one of many reviews available online that get deep into what has changed from Windows 7 to WIndows 8.
That said, if you’re interested in Windows 8, there are two versions available:
Linux
A lot of people these days boot more than one OS. Linux is a wonderful choice: powerful, cool, and cheap. Take your pick of distribution and have fun! For Fedora, Ubuntu, Debian, Slackware, and Mandriva, try Distrowatch.com, Cheapbytes.com, LinuxQuestions.org or one of the many others.
While Linux does not offer the wide compatibility of Windows with video games, gaming on Linux is still possible, through projects such as Wine, Cedega and Crossover. For more on the topic of Linux Gaming, I invite you to read this excellent article from AnandTech: Linux Gaming: Are we there yet?
What about Word processing, Excel and other Windows-based programs that you need? Linux, being an open platform, has many free alternatives for you. For Word/Excel and such, try LibreOffice.
Cost: Free
Conclusion
What do you think of the latest version of the Budget Gaming PCs? Let me know if you have any suggestion to improve this article or your opinion on it by leaving a comment below. Additionally, if a part goes out of stock, let me know.
Don’t agree with my choices? Have a better idea?
Feel free to leave a comment. There’s always place for improvement and after some research I may change the part according to your suggestion.
Building this PC?
If you build this system, I invite you to share your experience on how well it runs: What applications do you use, what type of work do you do, how well does this PC performs, is there anything that slows it down? Your feedback will help other people make an informed decision on what to buy for their own needs.
Do you need a guide on how to build a computer, need help or do you have some questions?
Computer Builds FAQs:
I often get questions such as:
- Who are you to tell me which parts to choose?
- Can you suggest me a step by step guide to build a computer?
- Why should I build a PC instead of buying one in a store?
- And many more…
1. You will find the answers to all of these questions and more in this article: FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer
2. Is this your first build? Here are 10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders to get you started.
3. Newly built computer won’t start? I invite you to read Help me: Why won’t my newly assembled PC start or boot?
4. Visit our forums here, where you can join our helpful community and ask questions
Recommended step-by-step guides to build your PC:
Newegg TV has three great videos on how to build your PC. The first covers choosing your parts, which we help you with in this article, so I chose not to include it. The second one, below, shows you in detail how to assemble your PC. The 3rd one shows you how to install Windows and software.
If you prefer a text version with pictures, here are two great guides by ArsTechnica, the first one covering the assembling and the second one covering Windows and software:
- Arstechnica Outstanding Guide for Hardware (Building the PC)
- Arstechnica Outstanding Guide for Software (EFI/BIOS, Windows, etc.)
Free Assistance
If you have any question(s) about the build, simply head over to the forums and our community will be there to assist you.
No worries, there are no stupid questions here on Hardware Revolution. We all started from scratch and learned through our mistakes. We”ll just help you make sure to avoid those mistakes 
If you want to have your final build double-checked and get my opinion on it before ordering, or for anything else, don’t be shy, just post a thread on the forums.
Build your Gaming PC today!
Why should you?
For the same price, you’ll get more performance out of your custom PC, or you’ll save money while getting the same performance compared to a retail PC. Not to mention that retail PCs come with tons of bloatware and limited warranties. Why settle for less?Stop relying on HP, Dell and other companies:
Build your own custom PC today. It’s easier than you think!This Build includes all the parts/cables that you need and it was double-checked to ensure compatibility. Simply order your parts, set aside some time, grab a screwdriver and build your own personal PC. No worries, we’ll (the HR community) be there to assist you if you have questions or need help.
Then you’ll be able to say, “See that computer over there? Yeah, I built that.” Talk about being proud of a job well done.
Want or need a more powerful Gaming PC? No problem.
If you’re looking for a Gaming PC that boots and launch games/applications faster thanks to a SSD (Solid State Drive) and that can handle most of the latest video games at a 1080p (1920 x 1080) resolution at their maximum graphic settings, head over to our Mainstream Gaming PCs article.
If you’re looking for a Gaming PC that can handle all of the latest video games maxed out at a 1080p (1920 x 1080) on a 120Hz monitor or to play video games on a multiple monitor setup or to play games in 3D, head over to our High-End Gaming PCs article.
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Category: Gaming PC
