Mainstream Gaming PCs v3.5.1: More Video Card Updates!
The HR 4th anniversary contest has officially ended. Congratulations to Edwin from South Carolina, David from Minnesota and Jesse from Georgia, your prizes are on their way! Thank you to all of you who participated.
Version 3.5.1 : Updated on May 17th 2012
After publishing the Mainstream Gaming PCs v3.5 yesterday, some of you left comments on the article or on the forums, expressing your desire to see less of a price gap between Tier’s 4 $230 Geforce GTX 560 Ti and Tier’s 5-6 $400 Geforce GTX 670.
After taking a second look at the article and the big price gap between Tier 4 and 5, I agree with you, there’s too much of a price gap. This is why I decided to update the Mainstream Gaming PCs to version 3.5.1, after doing the following updates:
- Tier 4: Upgraded from the $230 Geforce GTX 560 Ti to the $200 Radeon HD 6950 2GB. Lower cost and higher performance!
- Tier 5: Downgraded from the $400 Geforce GTX 670 to the $270 Geforce GTX 570, in order to lower the cost of Tier 5 and to reduce the price gap between Tier 4 and 5. Upgraded the PSU.
Never built a PC before and need help? No problem.
You don’t have to be a Geek to build a PC!
Building a PC has never been easier. We have hundreds of readers who had no experience and who built their first PC with the help of Hardware Revolution. If they can do it, so can you!Start by reading our “Building Your First PC?” article, which covers everything that you need to know to get started. We also have videos on how to build a PC and on how to install Windows/software a bit further down in the article.
Is this the right type of PC for me?
If you’re looking for a Mainstream Gaming PC, to play video games at a 1080p resolution, you’re at the right place. Otherwise, check out our other Do-It-Yourself Computer Systems or The Best Laptops For Your Money instead.
The new Gigabyte Geforce GTX 670, recommended for Tier 6, is factory overclocked for higher performance and features a triple fan cooling system for low temperatures/noise.
Click on a section to jump to it:
- Five Tiers to choose from
- Recommended parts summary
- Computer Builds FAQs
- Recommended parts in details
- Budget/High-End Gaming PCs
- Mainstream/High-End SFF Gaming PCs
About Hardware Revolution Mainstream Gaming Computers:
High-End Performance and Features at a Mainstream cost
Our mainstream gaming PCs feature parts that were chosen to offer the best balance between performance and features possible at a given price aka the best bang for your buck.
Designed with reliability and low-noise in mind
They feature a high-quality power supply, a case with a good balance between cooling abilities/low-noise and a quality after-market CPU Cooler, so that your PC will last you many years and to ensure that it will not overheat nor sound like a jet engine either.
Tier System:
Instead of having several articles that each cover one specific build, there are Tiers, allowing you to pick one of several systems at broader price points.
The Tiers are color coded as such:
Choose from five Tiers:
Tier 3 (Identified by a Red color): $845
Our lowest cost Tier that includes an Intel Ivy Bridge Quad-Core CPU. Tier 3 is the only Mainstream Gaming PCs Tier that does not include a SSD in its budget but it’s ready for one if you want to add one.
Tier 4 (Identified by a Green color): $973
Our lowest cost Tier that’s equipped with a 120GB SSD. Also equipped with a powerful Intel Core i5-3550 processor and an equally powerful Geforce GTX 560 Ti, Tier 4 is one heck of a powerhouse PC at a relatively low price considering the performance that it offers!
Tier 5 (Identified by an Orange color): $1204
Tier 5 offers a more powerful video card and an upgraded case. It offers not only a step-up in performance from Tier 4, but also a CPU with an unlocked multiplier, along with improved CPU voltage delivery on the upgraded motherboard and improved CPU Cooling with the upgraded CPU Cooler.
All of this results in a Tier that’s not only powerful as it is, but that’s also optimized to be easily overclocked, in order to reach new summits of performance!
Tier 6 (Identified by a Dark Red color): $1433
Tier 6 offers a more power video card as well as more storage capacity, with larger 240GB SSD/2TB HDD and just like Tier 5, Tier 6 features a CPU with an unlocked multiplier, along with improved CPU voltage delivery on the upgraded motherboard, improved CPU Cooling with the upgraded CPU Cooler and better case cooling.
All of this results in a Tier that’s not only powerful as it is, but that’s also optimized to be easily overclocked, in order to reach new summits of performance!
Tier 7 (Identified by a Fuchsia color): $1591
This Tier takes performance to the next level, with the a video card equipped with the fastest single GPU available: The Geforce GTX 680 2GB.
Just like Tier 5/6, Tier 7 features a CPU with an unlocked multiplier, along with improved CPU voltage delivery on the upgraded motherboard, improved CPU Cooling with the upgraded CPU Cooler and better case cooling.
All of this results in a Tier that’s not only powerful as it is, but that’s also optimized to be easily overclocked, in order to reach new summits of performance!
Need a Tier recommendation for a specific video game?
Ask us on the forums: Tell us about the video game, the level of details that you want (i.e. I just want to be able to play the game, medium, high or maximum details) and finally the resolution (e.g. 1920 x 1080.) of the monitor (HDTVs are usually 720p/1080p) that you’ll use.
Recommended Parts Summary:
Main recommendations, upgrades and alternatives:
1. Recommended Components are in Bold, with one or more colors/symbols for the Tier(s).
2. Suggested Alternatives and Upgrades are in Italic. You can upgrade as many parts as you want to, including parts from higher Tiers.
3. All Parts are interchangeable/compatible with each other. Ask us on the forums if you want us to double-check your build.
Building a PC, Got a Question, Need Help?
Computer Builds FAQs:
I often get questions such as:
- Who are you to tell me which parts to choose?
- Can you suggest me a step by step guide to build a computer?
- Why should I build a PC instead of buying one in a store?
- And many more…
1. You will find the answers to all of these questions and more in this article: FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer
2. Is this your first build? Start by reading our “Building Your First PC?” article, which covers everything that you need to know to get started. Here are also 10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders to get you started.
3. Newly built computer won’t start? I invite you to read Help me: Why won’t my newly assembled PC start or boot?
4. Visit our forums here, where you can join our helpful community and ask questions.
Recommended step-by-step guides to build your PC:
Newegg TV has three great videos on how to build your PC. The first covers choosing your parts, which we help you with in this article, so I chose not to include it. The second one, below, shows you in detail how to assemble your PC. The 3rd one shows you how to install Windows and software.
If you prefer a text version with pictures, here are two great guides by ArsTechnica, the first one covering the assembling and the second one covering Windows and software:
- Arstechnica Outstanding Guide for Hardware (Building the PC)
- Arstechnica Outstanding Guide for Software (EFI/BIOS, Windows, etc.)
Free Assistance
If you have any question(s) about the build, simply head over to the forums and our community will be there to assist you.
No worries, there are no stupid questions here on Hardware Revolution. We all started from scratch and learned through our mistakes. We”ll just help you make sure to avoid those mistakes 
If you want to have your final build double-checked and get my opinion on it before ordering, or for anything else, don’t be shy, just post a thread on the forums.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Recommendations in details:
Motherboard:
Socket: LGA1155
Ivy Bridge CPUs (Core ix-3xxx) use the LGA 1155 socket and the following chipsets:
7 series Chipsets: For Ivy Bridge CPUs, you have the H77, Z75 and Z77 chipsets.
- H77 supports the integrated GPU found in the CPU and thus allow for video output without a discrete video card. However, they do not support CPU overclocking.
- Z75 does support the integrated GPU found in the CPU, as well as CPU overclocking. However, it does not support Intel SRT (SSD caching), which I don’t recommend anyway (see note below).
- Z77 is the high-end chipset. It supports the integrated GPU and overclocking just like Z75. It also support Intel SRT (SSD caching).
While some older LGA1155 motherboard, based on the H61, H67, P67 and Z68 chipsets do support Ivy Bridge after a BIOS/UEFI update, this is not the case of all of them.
Also, the 7-series chipset equipped motherboards bring native USB 3.0 support, with greater performance and thus are recommended if you build a PC with a new Ivy Bridge CPU, so that way, you get the best performance and are sure that it will work with your Ivy Bridge CPU.
CPU Coolers compatibility: CPU Coolers that are compatible with the LGA1156 socket are also compatible with the LGA 1155 socket. Some LGA1155 motherboards support LGA 775 CPU Coolers too.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
About Intel’s QuickSync and SSD Caching:
All 7-series chipsets allows you to access the IGP from the CPU, which allows you to take advantage of Intel’s QuickSync, a technology that lets you use the IGP in your CPU to accelerate video conversion (amongst other things), allowing you to convert video faster than with just a CPU.
However, the drawback is that the quality of converted videos is lower than if they are converted with a CPU. This is subjective though, so the loss in quality might be an acceptable drawback for you, if you value the time than you gain.
As for SSD Caching, AnandTech has two excellent articles on the subject. They are on the Z68 chipset, but SSD caching is the same on Z77:
- Intel Z68 Chipset & Smart Response Technology (SSD Caching) Review
- Z68 SSD Caching with Corsair’s F40 SandForce SSD
In short, while SSD caching is an interesting technology, you’re better off using your SSD as your boot drive and manually managing where your applications and games get installed (SSD or HDD), if you want the best performance possible, all the time.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Tier 3 and 4:
$100 – BIOSTAR TZ77B Z77 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0
A basic Z77 chipset motherboard at a great price that’s a perfect match-up for Tier 3/4 and the Core i5-3550 CPU recommended for those Tiers.
It comes with SATA III 6.0Gb/s and USB 3.0 support thanks to the Z77 chipset and it’s ready for Intel’s 3rd generation of Core CPUs, codename Ivy Bridge, which are recommended in this guide. Note that it also supports the older 2nd generation of Intel’s Core CPUs, codename Sandy Bridge.
Equipped with an Ivy Bridge CPU (Core ix-3xxx), it supports PCI-Express 3.0. With a Sandy Bridge CPU (Core ix-2xxx), you get PCI-Express 2.0, which still offers enough bandwidth except for the highest-end configurations (Two Radeon HD 7970 in Crossfire or Two Geforce GTX 680 in SLI).
Note that the Z77 chipset allows you to use the integrated video card from the CPU. While the performance of the integrated video card is no where good enough to play recent games, it can still be used until you buy your video card, if you’re on a tight budget. It’s also useful if you need to troubleshoot your PC and suspect that the dedicated video card is defective.
Also note that while the Z77 chipset does support overclocking, the recommended CPU for Tier 3 and 4, the Core i5-3550, only supports limited overclocking.
If you want to overclock your CPU, you’ll need an i5-3570K ($230, recommended for Tier 5, 6 and 7) or i7-3770K ($350), which feature a completely unlocked CPU multiplier. See the CPU section for more details on this. You’ll also want a more powerful PSU (add 50W) and an after-market CPU Cooler for the best overclocking results.
Speaking of overclocking, this motherboard only features a 6 Phase PWM, which while isn’t bad, isn’t that great if you intend to greatly overclock your CPU. If you intend to greatly overclock your CPU (remember to get an unlocked K version), I’d recommend upgrading to the Tier 5-6-7 motherboard or to one of the recommended alternatives, at the bottom of the Tier 6-7 motherboard section.
Finally, this motherboard includes four SATA cables, which is enough for what is recommended in this guide.
Ports, expansion slots, features, what’s included in the box and warranty:
- Ports on the back: 1x PS/2, 4x USB 2.0, 2x USB 3.0, 10/100/1000 Mbps RJ-45 LAN, 6 audio ports (for 7.1 sound, but a dedicated sound is recommended in this guide anyway) and VGA/DVI/HDMI outputs.
- Expansion slots: One PCI-Express 3.0 16x slot, one PCI-Express 2.0 16x (running at 4x) slot, two PCI-Express 1x and two PCI slots. I recommend installing the recommended dedicated sound card (ASUS Xonar DG PCI) in the bottom PCI slot, in order to give your video card plenty of space to “breath” and stay cool.
- Other connectors/features on the motherboard: Three fan connectors (1 x 4 pins (for CPU Cooler), 2 x 3pins), four SATA 3.0Gb/s, two SATA 6.0Gb/s, one USB 3.0 header (for up to two USB 3.0 coming from the header in total), two USB 2.0 headers (for up to four USB 2.0 ports coming from the headers in total), IR header, COM header, onboard Power and Switch buttons and support for LGA1155/LGA1156 CPU Coolers.
- Included in the box: Motherboard, four SATA cables, backplate, velcro strap, manual and CD.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Tier 5, 6 and 7:
$130 – BIOSTAR TZ77XE3 Z77 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Better for CPU OC
In my opinion, the BIOSTAR TZ77XE3 has the best set of features overall for its low price, many of which that I consider very important for Tier 5, 6 and 7 of the Mainstream Gaming PCs:
- 13 Phase PWM allows for improved CPU voltage delivery, which is crucial when you overclock your CPU. This is the main reason that I recommend this motherboard for Tier 5, 6 and 7.
- PCI-Express 16x 3.0 8x/8x support: This motherboard’s two PCI-Express 3.0 16x slots will run at 8x/8x if you add a second video card for Crossfire or SLI.
- Two slots worth of space between the two main PCI-Express 16x slots, which gives the top video card some space to “breath” in order to stay at a reasonable temperature, when you use two video cards in SLI or in Crossfire.
- A USB 3.0 header that allows you to connect the case front USB 3.0 ports to it.
- Great placement of the SATA ports insures that long video cards won’t block access to them.
- A Debug LED makes your life much easier if you have to troubleshoot a problem.
- Power and Reset buttons on the motherboard, allowing you to easily test your PC outside your case.
Ports, expansion slots, features, what’s included in the box, etc.
- Ports on the back: 1x PS/2, 4x USB 2.0, 2x USB 3.0, 10/100/1000 Mbps RJ-45 LAN, 6 audio ports (for 7.1 sound, but a dedicated sound is recommended in this guide anyway) and VGA/DVI/HDMI outputs.
- Expansion slots: Two PCI-Express 3.0 16x slots (single at 16x, dual at 8x/8x), one PCI-Express 16x 2.0 (running at 4x), two PCI-Express 1x and two PCI slots. I recommend installing the dedicated sound card in the bottom PCI slot.
- Other connectors/features on the motherboard: Three fan connectors (1 x 4 pins (for CPU Cooler), 2 x 3pins), four SATA 3.0Gb/s, two SATA 6.0Gb/s, one USB 3.0 header (for up to two USB 3.0 coming from the header in total), two USB 2.0 headers (for up to four USB 2.0 ports coming from the headers in total), IR header, COM header, Debug LED, onboard Power and Switch buttons and support for LGA1155/LGA1156 CPU Coolers.
- Included in the box: Motherboard, four SATA cables, Crossfire and SLI dongle,backplate, manual and CD.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
ATX Form Factor Alternatives
- $190 – GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H Z77 SATA 6Gb/s 4x USB 3.0 FireWire E-SATA
- $210 – GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H-WB Z77 SATA 6Gb/s 4x USB 3.0 FireWire E-SATA WiFi
- $230 – ASRock Z77 Professional Z77 SATA 6Gb/s 6x USB 3.0 FireWire E-SATA IDE Floppy
Micro-ATX form factor Alternatives
If you want a smaller Micro-ATX motherboard, to use in a smaller case, here are three alternatives:
- $110 – BIOSTAR TZ77MXE Z77 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0
- $125 – MSI Z77MA-G45 Z77 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 CF/SLI
- $210 – ASUS Maximus V Gene Z77 SATA 6Gb/s 4x USB 3.0 E-SATA CF/SLI
Click here to go back up to parts summary
CPU:
Tier 3 and 4:
$210 – Intel Core i5-3550 3.3-3.7GHz Turbo Quad-Core 77W
Say hello to Intel’s 3rd generation Core CPUs, Ivy Bridge:
Performance:
Intel new third generation of Core CPUs, known under the codename Ivy Bridge (IB from here on) is here.
Replacing Intel’s LGA1155 Sandy Bridge (SB from here on, known as Core ix 2xxx) CPUs, the LGA1155 based IB CPUs (Known as Core ix 3xxx) bring in on average a 7%-15% performance improvement compared to the previous-generation of LGA1155 SB CPUs.
The higher performance is due to improved IPC (instructions per clock, aka performance at a given frequency), improved Turbo and slightly higher frequencies.
Needless to say, if it’s slightly faster than Sandy Bridge, which has no problem outperforming AMD’s Bulldozer/Llano CPUs, Ivy Bridge has no problem outperforming the competition.
Improved Turbo:
- On Sandy Bridge, Turbo increases the frequency by 100, 200, 300 or 400MHz, with 4, 3, 2 or 1 core(s) active respectively.
- On Ivy Bridge, Turbo increases the frequency by 200, 300, 400 or 400MHz, with 4, 3, 2 or 1 core(s) active respectively.
On top of that, Ivy Bridge runs at Turbo frequencies more often and for longer than Sandy Bridge.
Power consumption:
IB consumes about 17-18W less at load compared to SB and if you consider to it completes workloads faster than SB, it’s quite a bit more power efficient than SB. Idle power consumption is pretty much identical between IB and SB.
Overclocking:
Back in the Core 2 Duo/Core 2 Quad days and with previous generations of Intel CPUs, to overclock, all you had to do was to raise the BCLK (baseclock) or FSB frequency, until you reach the limit of your CPU and/or motherboard and/or cooling solution.
With Ivy Bridge, just like with SandyBridge, this is no longer the case: the 6 and 7-series chipsets integrate the clock generator. What once was a component on the motherboard, the PLL is now on the 6/7-series chipset die. The integrated PLL feeds a source clock to many other controllers (e.g. SATA) to the CPU itself.
The problem will that is if you if you raise the BCLK frequency, you will also raise the frequency of many other controllers and that will cause your PC to crash after raising the BLCK by more than 5-7%. So forget overclocking via the BCLK if you’re serious about overclocking.
To overclock, you’ll want to raise the CPU multiplier. How much you can raise it depends on your CPU:
- If you have a CPU that offers no Turbo mode (e.g. Celeron/Pentium/Core i3), then you can’t raise the multiplier at all and thus can’t overclock. In short: Your CPU is completely locked.
- If you have a CPU with Turbo modes (e.g. Core i5-3550), you can overclock, but just a bit, using a motherboard equipped with a Z chipset. You are limited to an overclock of 4 processor bins above and beyond the highest turbo frequency.
Let’s use a Core i5-3550, which runs at 3.3GHz by default, as an example:
- When one or two cores are active, the chip can turbo up to 3.7GHz. You can change that turbo state to go as high as 4.1GHz.
- When three cores are active, the chip can turbo up to 3.6GHz. You can change that turbo state to go as high as 4.0GHz.
- When four cores are active, the chip can turbo up to 3.5GHz. You can change that turbo state to go as high as 3.9GHz.
Overclocking the non-K Core i5/i7 chips relies entirely on turbo however. In the case above, the fastest your chip will run is 4.1GHz but with only one core or two cores active. If you have four cores active the fastest your chip can run is 3.9GHz. Makes sense?
- Finally, there’s the K-series of CPUs, with the Core i5-3570K and Core i7-3770K currently available. These chips are fully unlocked and will let you overclock them as far as the CPU and/or your cooling can sustain.
Dynamic overclocking:
One of the cool new features of Ivy Bridge is dynamic overclocking, which allows users to change the CPU/IGP multipliers within Windows without rebooting. It works flawlessly with Intel’s Extreme Tuning Utility (XTU).
Ivy Bridge running hot when overclocked?
You may have heard reports that Ivy Bridge runs hot, much hotter than Sandy Bridge, when overclocked. There’s some truth to this, so let me explain it to you.
Simply put, Ivy Bridge doesn’t react well to highly increased voltage. Past 1.30-1.35V temperatures greatly increase, so I recommend that if you use air-cooling, even high-end air-cooling, stay in the 1.20V-1.25V range.
Of course, make sure to monitor your temperatures. Ivy Bridge maximum temperature before it starts throttling its frequency down to protect itself from damage is 105C, 5C higher than Sandy Bridge’s 100C. However, for 24/7 usage, I recommend not exceeding 85C, to keep your CPU safe.
The good news is that most chips shouldn’t have any problems hitting 4.5-4.7GHz with 1.20V or less, which is great for the average overclocker, but scaling gets progressively worse as you go above these levels.
In other words, Ivy Bridge is great for the average overclocker and if you intend on really pushing it to its limits, be warned that you’ll need a serious after-market cooling solution.
Does that mean that you should get a Sandy Bridge CPU instead, if you intend to overclock?
In my opinion, no. Even if you’re able to get an extra 100-300MHz with a Sandy Bridge CPU vs an Ivy Bridge CPU, it won’t be enough to overcome Ivy Bridge architecture improvements, so you’ll end with either lower or similar performance and higher power consumption with an overclocked Sandy Bridge CPU vs an overclocked Ivy Bridge CPU.
That said, if you already have a Sandy Bridge CPU, there’s no point upgrading to Ivy Bridge, except perhaps getting PCI-Express 3.0 if you run or intend to run two high-end video cards in Crossfire or SLI and don’t want to be bottlenecked by PCI-Express 2.0.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Why not recommend a K version (for overclocking) to begin with?
The reason is simple: If you don’t intend to overclock, why spend more on the K version?
Want to overclock?
If you do want to overclock, I recommend going with the CPU, motherboard, CPU Cooler and power supply of Tier 5, 6 and 7, which are optimized for overclocking. That way, you’ll be sure that your motherboard and the power supply can handle the additional power consumption and that the CPU Cooler will keep your overclocked CPU temperature in check.
In the end, this is YOUR custom PC and I prefer to give you the possibility to choose what’s best for you, instead of imposing my ideas
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Tier 5, 6 and 7
$229 – Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4-3.8GHz Turbo Unlocked Multiplier 77W
CPU performance wise, the Core i7-3570K is slightly faster than the Core i5-3550 due to its 100MHz higher frequency.
The Core i5-3570K offers a better integrated GPU than the Core i5-3550, but considering that you’ll be using a dedicated video card (which offers far superior performance) and not the integrated GPU, this will make no difference in performance.
The main advantage of the Core i5-3570K over the Core i5-3550 is its unlocked multiplier, which allows you to overclock it to your heart’s content.
Of course, Tier 5, 6 and 7 featured recommended components that are optimized for overclocking, meaning that your overclock won’t be limited by an inadequate CPU Cooler or something alike.
Recommended upgrades (Compared to the Intel Core i5-3570K main recommendation):
- $320 – Intel Core i7-3770 3.4-3.8GHz Turbo Quad-Core 77W
– The i7 series brings with it Hyper-Threading, which is useless for gaming (i.e. it brings no more performance to gaming), but brings additional performance for video editing and other highly-threaded workloads.
- $350 – Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5-3.9GHz Turbo Unlocked Multiplier 77W
– This is the K version of the Core i7-3770, meaning that it comes with an unlocked multiplier for full overclocking and that it’s 100MHz faster at stock frequencies.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Video Card:
A few important recommendations and notes regarding video cards:
- Get the latest version of the video card drivers directly from AMD or Nvidia. That way, you’ll be sure to get the latest bug fixes as well as the best performance possible from your video card(s).
- To confirm whether Crossfire or SLI is working or not, use GPU-Z which will show that information to you in the last field at the bottom of the program.
- SLI Guide: How to enable SLI, check if SLI is enabled, actually working in your game and what to do if it’s not is a great guide from the Notebook Review forums. If you know of a similar guide that covers Crossfire, let me know, I’ll make sure to add it to the article.
- When using two or more video cards in Crossfire or SLI, you want to connect your monitors into the top video card, i.e. the video card that is the closest to the CPU.
- Most video cards require one or two PCI-Express 6 or 8 pin power connector(s) to be plugged into them to function properly. Make sure that your power supply comes equipped with enough 6 and/or 8 pin connectors for your video cards. Of course, I double-checked that already for the recommendations in this article, I simply mention it if you decide to modify a build to your own taste.
Tier 3:
$174 – GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 560 1GB Dual fans
Replacing the EVGA Geforce GTX 560 Superclocked, whose price has been creeping up above $200, the Gigabyte Geforce GTX 560 with its 830MHz (vs 850MHz on the EVGA) core frequency is only slightly slower, but is nearly $30 less expensive.
There’s also a $20 Mail-in Rebate available, bringing its cost down to only $154!
What games can this video card handle?
The Geforce GTX 560 1GB is capable of handling pretty much any game at a resolution of 1680 x 1050 with maximum visual quality. 1080p (1920 x 1080) gameplay is usually not a problem either, although you might have to scale back details in more demanding games.
Finally, it is DirectX 11 compliant, HDCP ready, able to handle HD content (e.g. Blu-Ray) and stream audio over HDMI.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Tier 4:
$200 – Sapphire Radeon HD 6950 2GB
Replacing the Geforce GTX 560 Ti is the Radeon HD 6950 2GB, as it’s a notch faster on average, while costing $30 less!
V.S. the Geforce GTX 560 Non-Ti, the Radeon HD 6950 2GB clearly offers better performance, especially in demanding games.
Do note that this particular model from Sapphire comes with a nice dual-fan cooling, to keep temperatures and noise in check
What games can this video card handle?
The Radeon HD 6950 2GB is capable of handling pretty much any game at a resolution of 1680 x 1050 with maximum visual quality. 1080p (1920 x 1080) gameplay is usually not a problem either, although you might have to scale back details in the most demanding games.
Finally, it is DirectX 11 compliant, HDCP ready, able to handle HD content (e.g. Blu-Ray) and stream audio over HDMI.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Tier 5:
$270 – EVGA GeForce GTX 570 Dual fans
Following a recent price cut, I’m now recommending the Geforce GTX 570 for Tier 5.
It outperforms the $200 Radeon HD 6950 2GB, the $260 Radeon HD 7850 and the $290 Geforce GTX 560 Ti 448 Cores, making it an excellent choice for $270.
It outperforms the Radeon HD 7950 3GB by a good margin, consumes quite a bit less power and offers great overclocking potential. I invite you to read the AnandTech review for more information.
This particular EVGA Geforce GTX 670 comes with a nice dual-fan cooling, to keep temperatures and noise in check
What games can this video card handle?
This card is capable of handling pretty much any game at a resolution of 1680 x 1050 with maximum visual quality. 1080p (1920 x 1080) gameplay is usually not a problem either, although you might have to scale back details in the most demanding games.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Tier 6:
$400 – GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 670 2GB OC Triple fans
Launched in May 2012, the Geforce GTX 670 is a solid addition to the world of video cards.
It outperforms the Radeon HD 7950 3GB by a good margin, consumes quite a bit less power and offers great overclocking potential. I invite you to read the AnandTech review for more information.
See the following links to see how it performs:
- V.S. the $200 Radeon HD 6950 2GB
- V.S. the $270 Geforce GTX 570
- V.S. the $360 Radeon HD 7870 (which is not recommended simply because you’re just better off spending $40 more to get the much more powerful GTX 670).
- V.S. its big brother, the $500 Geforce GTX 680.
This particular Gigabyte Geforce GTX 670 has an excellent three fans cooling system and it has 6pin+8pin pci-e power connectors, while the reference GTX 670 design has only 2x6pin. This does help further more with overclocking.
What games can this video card handle?
This card will run any game at 1920 x 1200 (or 1080 for 1080p) maxed out, with less or more AA/AF, depending on the game, as well as most games at 2560 x 1600 without any problem. Gaming on multiple monitors is also possible, although you might have to turn settings down, depending on the game.
Alternative
$450 – SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 7970 3GB OC Dual-Fan
That particular model comes with a dual-fan cooling system, for improved cooling and lower temperatures, making it an excellent candidate for overclocking.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Tier 7:
$500 – EVGA Geforce GTX 680 2GB
Simply put, this card features the fastest single-GPU on the market. It’s not only faster than the Radeon HD 7970, but it also consumes about 30W less at load, according to AnandTech.
The GTX 680 introduces “GPU Boost”, which is similar to the Turbo found on modern Intel and AMD CPUs. Simply put, under high load, the video card will boost its frequency, while remaining within its power budget (TDP) and remaining at safe temperatures, to boost performance.
If you want the fastest video card without messing with Crossfire, SLI or dual-GPU video card setups, this is the way to go.
On the downside, there’s such an high demand for it that it’s out of stock everywhere, so you might want to subscribe to “Auto Notify” on Newegg, to get an e-mail when it’s back in stock to get it
Alternative
- $550 – EVGA SuperClocked Signature GTX 680 2GB
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Need a monitor recommendation?
No problem, I invite you to visit The Best Monitors For Your Money article.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
RAM:
Tier 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7:
$50 – Corsair 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600MHz CAS 9 1.5v
Is 8GB of RAM necessary?
Except for a few exceptions, most current games and applications won’t take advantage of more than 4GB. As time goes by though, games are starting to take advantage of more than 4GB of RAM.
Also, if you’re like me and like switching back (Alt-Tab or Alt-Esc) to your desktop to check something while pausing your game and keeping it open, 8GB will greatly improve the responsiveness of your PC.
Another things to keep in mind is if you intend on keeping this Gaming PC for more than say, 1-2 years, 8GB is worth it, especially now, considering the rock-bottom RAM prices that we have right now.
That way, you know that you’ll be future-proof for a while and that you can alt-tab out of your games with minimal lag.
This is exactly why all the Mainstream Gaming PC Tiers feature 8GB of RAM. That way, you know that you’ll be future-proof for a while and that you can alt-tab out of your games with minimal lag.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Is it worth it to get RAM with higher frequencies (e.g. 2000MHz RAM vs 1600MHz RAM)?
In my opinion, there is little incentive to move to faster frequency RAM, as this usually only brings only a very small performance increase, nothing noticeable, while costing quite a bit more in some cases. You’re better off investing that extra money on a faster video card, a larger SSD, a different case, etc.
Maximum amount of RAM: All the motherboards in this guide support four sticks of RAM, for a maximum of 32GB (4 sticks of 8GB) of RAM. However, unless you have a specific use for 32GB, it is completely overkill for a Gaming PC. 8GB is plenty enough and 16GB is already hard to justify, unless you want to future-proof your PC and/or use programs that use a lot of RAM.
Other Upgrades:
If you want a 16GB kit, here is my recommended upgrade:
Click here to go back up to parts summary
RAM Heatsinks and CPU cooler clearance:
Every kit that I recommend in this guide feature either no heatsinks or small heatsinks that don’t raise too much above the RAM sticks.
Why?
- Because RAM heatsinks barely make any difference when it comes to RAM temperatures. Besides, even if you overclock it/raise the voltage (at your own risk, Intel doesn’t recommend more than 1.5V), RAM temperatures aren’t a problem as long as you have decent airflow in your case.
- Tall RAM heatsinks can get in the way of larger aftermarket CPU Coolers, preventing you from installing your aftermarket CPU Cooler!
Important: RAM can require manual configuration within the BIOS to reach its full potential or function properly!
By default, some RAM kits will boot at lower frequencies than they are rated for. This is perfectly normal, it does not mean that your RAM is defective.
You simply have to go within the BIOS (The first thing that you see when your PC starts) and enable XMP, for your RAM to function at its rated speed. If XMP is not available or doesn’t work for some reason, you can adjust the RAM settings manually, such as frequency (In MHz, usually linked to the CPU, look for a CPU:RAM ratio), and timings (a series of numbers, such as 9-9-9-24). Refer to your motherboard manual and your RAM specifications for more information.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Storage:
Quick tip: Get the most performance out of your SSD, by selecting AHCI in your BIOS/EFI options.
SSD FAQ:
If you wondering “Who are SSDs for?”, if you want a quick recap on what a SSD is, how SSDs compare to hard drives, wonder about reports of SSDs slowing down over time or want to learn more about TRIM and/or TRIM with RAID, I invite you to read our SSD FAQ.
SSD for Tier 4 and 5:
$125 – Sandisk Extreme 2.5″ 120GB SATA III SSD
Replacing the Mushkin Enhanced Chronos 2.5″ 120GB SATA III SSD, which I no longer recommend for now due to various reports of users experiencing problems (possibly due to a bad batch), the Sandisk Extreme offers higher performance (9 vs 7.8 in The Best SSDs and HDDs For Your Money article) as well as higher reliability.
2.5″ to 3.5″ bracket adapter:
Note that the Sandisk Extreme 120GB and 240GB don’t include a 2.5″ to 3.5″ adapter bracket, which is necessary to install the SSD in your case if it doesn’t support 2.5″ drives.
However, all Tiers have a recommended case that support 2.5″ drives, so you do not need to buy an adapter if you stick to the recommended cases.
If you pick a case that doesn’t support 2.5″ drives natively and that the SSD that you pick doesn’t include a 2.5″ to 3.5″ adapter, I recommend the $5- Rosewill RX-C200P 2.5″ SSD / HDD Mounting Kit for 3.5″ Drive Bay adapter.
SSD for Tier 6 and 7:
$230 – Sandisk Extreme 2.5″ 240GB SATA III SSD
Tier 6 and 7 get an upgrade to an higher capacity 240GB SSD.
This is due to price drops on SSDs and at $230 for 240GB, the Sandisk Extreme is less than a $1 per GB, while offering top-notch performance and reliability!
SSD Alternatives
120GB (Tier 4-5) will hold the OS (Windows 7) as well as a few programs/games.
240GB will have no problem holding the OS and many programs/games.
If 240GB isn’t enough for you or if you want an higher-end model, here are some SSDs alternatives:
- $270 – Samsung 830 Series 2.5″ 256GB SATA III SSD
– The Samsung 830 series is the fastest 2.5″ SSD on the market, offering excellent performance with all kind of data and is highly reliable. A great choice if you want a faster SSD than the Sandisk Extreme. It also offers slightly more storage capacity, at 256GB vs 240GB for the Sandisk Extreme.
- $494 – Sandisk Extreme 2.5″ 480GB SATA III SSD
– If you want a fast 480GB SSD at a reasonable cost, the Sandisk Extreme 480GB is a great choice for $494, nearly $100 less than when I last updated this article!
- $720 – Samsung 830 Series 2.5″ 512GB SATA III SSD
– The Samsung 830 series is the fastest 2.5″ SSD on the market, offering excellent performance with all kind of data and is highly reliable. A great choice if you want a faster SSD than the Sandisk Extreme. It also offers slightly more storage capacity, at 512GB vs 480GB for the Sandisk Extreme.
For other options and alternatives, take a look at our The Best SSDs and HDDs For Your Money article.
Firmware updates:
Before you start using your SSD, I strongly urge you to update the SSD’s firmware to get the latest bug fixes and the best performance. Make sure to read the instructions available on each update page, in order to understand how to properly update the firmware.
Most SSDs have newer firmware available than the one that they are shipped with, so make sure to double-check your SSD’s firmware version and to update it if’s not the latest.
If you update your SSD’s firmware after starting to use it, make sure to backup your data beforehand, as something could go wrong during the update process and you could lose the data on the SSD. If you have questions regarding firmware updates, contact the manufacturer or visit their support forums.
For the latest firmwares information, see our The Best SSDs and HDDs For Your Money article and scroll down to the end of the SSD section.
You can skip the SSD if you need or want to cut down on costs:
Personally, I think that SSDs are the type of upgrade that once you’ve experienced, you don’t want to go without it anymore, because it makes the PC experience that much better, since the PC feels so much responsive.
However, If you feel like a SSD doesn’t make enough of a performance different to justify its cost or if you need/want to cut down the cost of your build, you can remove the SSD from a Tier and go only with a hard drive, while still having perfectly functional PC. That’s the great part of building your custom PC, you choose the parts that go in it
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Tier 3 and 5
$98 – Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB SATA III
Replacing the Seagate Barracuda hard drives, which I no longer recommend due to too many users having issues with them, the Western Digital Caviar Blue is an excellent 1TB hard drive at a reasonable cost of $89.
Tier 4
$75 – Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB SATA III
In order to keep Tier 4′s cost down, I recommend the less expensive Western Digial Caviar Blue 500GB hard drive. Of course, if you want a larger capacity hard drive, feel free to pick another recommended hard drive.
Tier 6 and 7
$120 – SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 HD204UI 2TB SATA II
Yes, the Samsung F4 HD204UI is a “green” hard drive, meaning that it spins slower to keep power consumption low and this slightly reduces performance.
The reason that I recommend this hard drive is because it’s relatively affordable and it’s the most reliable 2TB hard drive currently available on the market.
Besides, you’ll have a 240GB SSD to store the OS and programs/games that need the extra performance
Reliability
Reliability wise, Samsung drives tops the chart, followed by Western Digital drives and then Seagate behind them. The Hitachi drives are the least reliable and I’d avoid them.
All hard drives and all SSDs are prone to failure though, which is why you should Have a Backup System that you can rely on!
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Alternatives
- $75 – Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB SATA III
– If you want a low-cost hard drive, this one offers you get 500GB for $75.
- $121 – Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB SATA III
– If you want a high-performance, fairly reliable 1TB hard drive, I recommend the Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB.
- $210 – Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB SATA III
– If you want a high-performance, fairly reliable 2TB hard drive, I recommend the Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB.
- $153 – Seagate Momentus XT 750GB 2.5″ Hybrid Hard Drive
– The Seagate Momentus XT 750GB 2.5″ Hybrid Hard Drive has a 8GB flash drive cache, allowing to offer performance close to a SSD when data is read from the cache, as well as the high capacity of a hard drive. See this Hardware Canucks review for more information on how it performs.
SATA II 3.0Gb/s vs SATA III 6.0Gb/s: No performance difference for hard drives!
SATA 3.0 Gb/s (SATA II) and SATA 6.0Gb/s (SATA III) refer to the speed of the connection between the drive and the motherboard.
However, the best hard drives reach about 210MB/s (or 1.68Gb/s) in best scenarios. SATA 3.0Gb/s is plenty enough to handle that and for hard drives, SATA 6.0Gb/s does not offer any performance advantage, since the hard drives can’t even max out a SATA II 3.0Gb/s connection.
Only modern SSDs take advantage of SATA 6.0Gb/s due to their higher transfer rates.
In other words, if you take two otherwise identical hard drives, the SATA III model will not be faster than the SATA II model. SATA III for hard drives is just a marketing scheme
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Optical Drive:
Tier 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7
$18 – Sony SATA 24X DVD Burner
This drive is able to read and burn CDs and DVDs. Relatively silent (it obviously makes some noise when reading/burning at high speed), compatible with all major formats including DVD-RAM.
The motherboard includes four SATA cables, of which one will be used for the hard drive, one for the SSD (Tier 4 to 7) and one for this DVD Burner, so there’s no need to worry about cables.
Upgrades:
If you’d like to watch BluRay movies or TV shows, this $45 – LG Black 6X BD-ROM SATA Blu-ray Reader/16x DVD Burner
If you want the ability to burn Blu-Ray disks as well, then the $76 – Pioneer Black 12X BD-R 2X BD-RE SATA Blu-Ray Burner
Regarding Blu-Ray playback:
As far as I know, you still require a specific software to playback Blu-Ray disks on a PC.
Based on various reviews and feedback on various forums, PowerDVD 12 3D Ultra is the software that I recommend to you. You’ll want at least the professional version for Blu-ray playback.
It is fully compatible with Windows 7 and shouldn’t give you any problems.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Case:
Tier 3 and 4:
$76 – Corsair Carbide Series 300R USB 3.0 x2 2 fans
- Cooling wise, this case includes two 120mm case fans, ensuring proper cooling for your Gaming PC.
Features wise, you get:
- Corsair’s excellent tool-free assembling, making this PC a lot easier to build!
- Four hard drive cages that supports 3.5″ and 2.5″ drives (perfect for the SSD)
- 2x USB 3.0 ports via an internal header (supported by the motherboard), Audio out and MIC in.
- Dust filters
- Various holes and space to route and hide your wires.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Tier 5 and 6:
$100 – Corsair Carbide Series 400R USB 3.0 x2 3 fans
A step-up from the Corsair Carbide 300R, the Corsair 400R offers an extra fan, nicer design with LED front fans and an improved cable management system for only $20 more.
Cooling wise, this case includes three 120mm case fans, with support for seven more (four 120mm, six 120mm/140mm)! The two front 120mm fans have White LEDs, for a very cool look!
Features wise, you get:
- Corsair’s excellent tool-free assembling, making this PC a lot easier to build!
- Six hard drive cages that supports 3.5″ and 2.5″ drives (perfect for the SSD)
- Dust filters
- 2x USB 3.0 ports via an internal header (supported by the motherboard), FireWire (supported by only some motherboards), Audio out and MIC in.
- Various holes and space to route and hide your wires.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Tier 7:
$130 – Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced USB 3.0 x2
Used by many of our readers/forum members, the Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced is a great case to work with, that offers excellent airflow, with low noise, thanks to its large fans!
Its military looks is also something that many love, although some hate it. If that’s the case, we recommend a variety of alternatives below.
- Cooling wise, this case includes three 230mm and one 140mm fans. It also features a “GPU Duct”, in which you can add a 120 x 37 mm fan to improve cooling to the video card (ideal for CF/SLI setups).
Features wise, you get:
- Tons of space to work with.
- Support for 2.5″ and 3.5″ drives.
- USB 3.0 x 2, USB 2.0 x 4, FireWire (supported on only some motherboards), eSATA x 1, Mic x 1, Audio x 1
- Various holes and space to route and hide your wires.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Other recommended cases:
If you a want with a different look, more case fans and/or other features, take a look at my list of other recommended cases:
- $80- NZXT LEXA S LEXS 3 x 120mm 1 x 140mm
- $110- NZXT TEMPEST EVO 4 x 120mm 2 x 140mm
- $95- Thermaltake Armor A90
- $100- LIAN LI Lancool PC-K62 3x140mm 1x120mm
- $130- NZXT WHISPER 2x80mm 2x120mm
- $120- COOLER MASTER Storm Sniper 3x200mm 1x120mm
- $130- NZXT Phantom, in Black
- $130- NZXT Phantom White Full Tower
- $160- Corsair Graphite 600T
- $80 – Cooler Master Storm Scout 1 x 120mm, 2 x 140mm
- $80 – LIAN LI Lancool PC-K7B 3 x 120mm case fans
- $100 – NZXT Phantom 410 Black 1x140mm + 2x120mm fans
- $100 – NZXT Phantom 410 White 1x140mm + 2x120mm fans
- $100 – SILVERSTONE Precision PS06B-W 1x180mm 1x120mm
- $100 – NZXT H2 H2-001-BK Black 3x120mm
- $100 – NZXT H2 H2-001-WT Black 3x120mm
- $100 – Fractal Design Arc Midi 3x140mm
- $100 – Antec Eleven Hundred 1 x200mm + 1x120mm fans
- $120 – Antec P280 3 x 120mm fans
- $110 – Fractal Design Define R3 2x120mm fans
- $89 – Cooler Master HAF 922 2x200mm 1x120mm
- $146 – Cooler Master HAF 932 USB 3.0 3x230mm 1x140mm
- $180 – Cooler Master HAF X USB 3.0 1x230mm 2x200mm 1x140mm GPU Duct
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Power Supply:
Tier 3 and 4:
$70 – Rosewill HIVE 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Modular
This power supply is capable of delivering up to 550W, not that you should rely on this information only as I often point in posts such as Warning: 6 Surefire Ways of Blowing Up Your Computer Due to an Inadequate Power Supply, but more importantly 38A on the 12V line, the most important factor when it comes to choosing a power supply for a gaming computer.
It is also 80PLUS Bronze certified, making it fairly efficient, so that you don’t waste money on your electricity bill.
Its efficiency also helps it remain fairly cool and quiet, as there is less wasted energy converted to heat to dissipate.
80 PLUS?
80 PLUS refers to a certification from an independant group that a PSU meets their requirements for the specified level of efficiency. Here’s a chart that shows the different required levels of efficiency depending on the specific 80 PLUS certification:
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_PLUS
Wait, a Rosewill power supply? “Mathieu must have gone mad!” you must be thinking.
Until recently, yes, most Rosewill power supplies were average at best and mediocre in many cases.
However, recently Rosewill started introducing some new, higher-quality power supplies to the market and the Rosewill HIVE series is one of them.
The Rosewill HIVE series is based on the same power supply platform as the OCZ ZS series.
The OCZ ZS series was well reviewed by many websites, including by JohnnyGuru who reviewed the OCZ ZS 550W and gave it a 9/10 for performance and 8.5/10 for build quality.
With the Rosewill HIVE being based on the same power supply platform, it should perform just as well and offer very decent reliability.
Value wise, this power supply is pretty much unbeatable. It is rated to deliver up to 550W (has been found to be capable of even more), is rated for 38A on the 12V line, is 80PLUS Bronze certified and finally, it is modular.
All of that for only $70, which is why this power supply offers outstanding bang for your buck and which is also why I’m recommending for Tier 5 of the Mainstream Gaming PCs.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Modular power supply?
A modular power supply is one that allows you to only plug in and only use the power cables that you actually need, instead of being stuck with a bunch of unused power cables that you need to hide somewhere in your case, that are resulting in less of a cable mess.
Alternative
- $80 – Rosewill Capstone 550W 80 PLUS Gold
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Tier 6:
$90 – Seasonic M12II 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Modular
This power supply is capable of delivering up to 620W, not that you should rely on this information only as I often point in posts such as Warning: 6 Surefire Ways of Blowing Up Your Computer Due to an Inadequate Power Supply, but more importantly 48A on the 12V line, the most important factor when it comes to choosing a power supply for a gaming computer.
It is 80 PLUS Bronze certified, to insure good efficiency, a lower power bill, less heat and noise, compared to a less efficient and/or lower quality power supply.
It is also modular, allowing you to use only the power cables that you need, resulting in a cleaner build.
Alternative
- $90 – Rosewill Capstone 650W 80 PLUS Gold
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Tier 5 and 7
$100 – Rosewill Capstone 650W 80 PLUS Gold
Yes, another Rosewill power supply. Remember that what matters is not the brand, but who actually made it. In this case, SuperFlower (an excellent power supply manufacturer) made it and it was the 750W unit was reviewed by JohnnyGuru who gave it a 9.5 for performance and 8.5 for build quality.
This power supply is capable of delivering up to 650W, not that you should rely on this information only as I often point in posts such as Warning: 6 Surefire Ways of Blowing Up Your Computer Due to an Inadequate Power Supply, but more importantly 54A on the 12V line, the most important factor when it comes to choosing a power supply for a gaming computer.
It is 80 PLUS Gold certified, to insure excellent efficiency, a lower power bill, less heat and noise, compared to a less efficient and/or lower quality power supply.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Power Consumption:
How to calculate power consumption:
I recommend using the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator. Here are the settings that I used:
- CPU depending on the Tier, 90% TDP. For Tier 5- 6-7, it is overclocked to 4.5GHz/1.2V
- Video Cards depends on the Tier
- Two sticks sticks of DDR3 (Add 10W for four sticks)
- One regular SATA drive + One Flash SSD
- 1 DVD-RW/DVD+RW Drive
- 4 USB Devices
- 4 x 120mm regular fans
- System Load: 90%
- Capacitor Aging: 20%
A quick note about the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator:
While this is the main tool that I use to estimate power consumption, do note that my recommendations also take into account my personnal experience (over 11 years) and some additional research on my own to verify these numbers. This is why you may notice that the numbers that I give below may or may not match what the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator gives you. When in doubt, stick with my numbers or ask us on the forums.
Give your power supply some overhead:
While you can match a 650W PSU with a 630W requirement, it is good practice to add about 75-100W (125-150W if you overclock) of overhead, so that your PSU doesn’t run at full capacity all the time, as that will reduce its lifespan, increase its chance of failure, increase its heat output and its noise output.
Estimated Power Consumption, per Tier:
According to the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator, with the settings that I described above, it is estimated that this system will require at load (peak usage), the following Watts out of a power supply. The minimum requirements are in Italic, while my recommendations (including overhead) are in Bold:
- 375W/500W with the Intel Core i5-3550 and the Geforce GTX 560 1GB (Tier 3).
- 387W/500W with the Intel Core i5-3550 and the Radeon HD 6950 2GB (Tier 4).
- 450W/620W with the Intel Core i5-3570K, overclocked to 4.5GHz/1.2v and the Geforce GTX 670 2GB (Tier 5-6).
- 483W/650W with the Intel Core i5-3570K, overclocked to 4.5GHz/1.2v and the Geforce GTX 680 2GB (Tier 7).
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Other recommended upgrades:
- $138 – XFX PRO750W XXX Semi-Modular 80Plus Silver 750W
– For any Tier, if you desire an high-quality 750W power supply that’s highly efficient (80 PLUS Silver) and modular.
- $170 – Corsair Professional Series Gold 750-Watt 80 Plus Gold
– For any Tier, if you desire an high-quality 750W power supply that’s highly efficient (80 PLUS Silver) and modular.
- $109 – XFX PRO850W XXX Semi-Modular 80 Plus Silver Certified 850W
– This is the PSU to go with if you want to either upgrade to two Radeon HD 7950 or 7970 in Crossfire or two Geforce GTX 680 in SLI, or to future-proof your PC, in order to upgrade to such a setup down the road. Reliable, Efficient and semi-modular (i.e. Required cables aren’t modular.)
- $180 – NZXT HALE90-850-M 850W 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular
– Same thing as above, but this power supply is more efficient with a 80 PLUS Gold Rating.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Cooling:
CPU Cooler
Tier 3 and 4:
$25 – Corsair A50 CPU Cooler
The Corsair A50 CPU Cooler currently offers the best value for an after-market CPU Cooler, offering similar performance as at similar price as the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus, but with slightly less noise.
Considering that the CPU recommended for Tier 3 and 4 can only be overclocked slightly via Turbo, the point of this CPU Cooler is to keep the CPU temperatures in check during long gaming sessions and to avoid the noise from the Intel stock CPU Cooler.
Note that you can add a second fan by simply buying one, the CPU Cooler includes the necessary accessories to install a second fan on it.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Tier 5, 6 and 7:
$60 – NZXT Havik 140 Dual Fans CPU Cooler
Recommended by Brian, our collaborator for “The Best CPU Coolers for your money” article, the NZXT Havik 140 Cooler offers great cooling performance close to the best CPU Cooler, at a much better cost.
High-End performance at a mainstream price, just like the builds in this article
Want a better CPU Cooler?
The $83 – Noctua NH-D14
Thermal Interface kit:
Note: The CPU Coolers that I recommend already include high-performance thermal compound, so you don’t need to buy any.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Case Fans:
If you want to add a case fan to help keep your computer components cool, to add on the Corsair A50 CPU Cooler or to replace the fans that came with your case, here are my recommendations:
- $12- CM Long-Life Sleeve .6k-2k RPM 21-77CFM 13-32dBA PWM
- $16- CM Barometric Ball .6k-2k RPM 26-86CFM 13-30dBA PWM
- $10- AC Fluid Dynamic .3k-1.35k RPM Max 57 CFM w/ 4 Pin PWM
- $19- Silverstone 2Ball .8k-2.4k RPM Max 110CFM 17-40dBA fan contr.
- $25- Noctua SSO .9k-1.1k-1.3k RPM 33-54CFM 13-20dBA adj. speed
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Sound:
Sound card:
All Tiers:
$24 – ASUS Xonar DG 5.1 Sound Card w/ Headphone amplifier
While integrated audio has improved a lot over the years, it’s still no match for the sound quality of a sound card, especially when you use headphones, thanks to the headphone amplifier on the ASUS Xonar DG.
Considering that audio is a big part of your Gaming PC experience, I believe that $28, or a small % of your total budget, is entirely worth it to improve your PC audio quality, whether it’s for gaming, music or other entertainment purposes.
Check out the recommended motherboard for your Tier, to figure in which motherboard’s PCI slot I recommend installing this sound card.
Alternatives:
Compatibility wise, just make sure that you have a PCI or PCI-Express slot free, that won’t be covered by a video card, on your motherboard for your sound card.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Speakers:
While I do not include speakers in the Tiers budgets, seeing as you may already own some or simply do not want any, here are some recommendations for great speakers at various price points:
Note that the power output is in RMS Watts, a more accurate measurement.
2.0 speakers: 2 satellites and no sub-woofer:
- $19 – Logitech X-140 2.0 5W
- $47 – Creative Inspire T12 2.0 18W
- $100 – Creative Gigaworks T20 Series II 2.0 28W
2.1 speakers: 2 satellites and a sub-woofer:
- $30 – Creative A220 2.1 9W
- $44 – Logitech Z313 2.1 25W
- $54 – Logitech Z323 2.1 30W
- $75 – Logitech Z523 2.1 40W
- $132 – Logitech Z623 2.1 200W
- $190 – Corsair SP2500 2.1 232W
5.1 speakers: 5 satellites and a sub-woofer:
Headphones/Earphones
I do not include headphones nor earphones in the Tiers budgets, seeing as you may already own a pair or simply do not want any.
Also keep in mind that sound quality is subjective, so while these are some great recommendations, in my opinion, at their respective price points, those recommendations are based on my own research, not yours. I do recommend that you do your own research, to figure out the best headphones for your needs, based on the type of music that you listen to and the games that you play.
Open Design Headphones:
As the name implies, an open hear headphone means that it doesn’t cover or seal off the ear from hearing outside noises.
Pros: Enough airflow to keep your ears cool. On average lighter than closed design headphones. Resonance is significantly reduced providing better audio quality and a better audio experience.
Cons: You hear outside noises, so they can’t be used in noisy environments. They leak out sound, so they provide no privacy and can bother people that are close to you.
- $15 – Koss KSC75 Clip on headphones
- $47 – Koss PortaPro
- $55 – Superlux HD668B
- $79 – Grado SR-60i
- $99 – Grado SR-80i
- $104 – Audio Technica ATH-AD700
- $201 – Sennheiser HD555
- $200 – Grado SR225i
- $250 – Sennheiser HD 598
- $295 – Grado SR325is
Closed Design Headphones:
These are the opposite of open design headphones. These headsets usually have larger ear cups that isolate the user’s ears from his surroundings and its design is typically meant to block out outside sounds.
Pros: 1- Closed ear cups that seal off the ear from the outside world so you can expect sounds not to leak in and out of the headphones.
2- You can enjoy exclusive audio entertainment particularly in a typically noisy environment.
Cons: 1- Due to the closed ear design, airflow is greatly minimized or prevented, producing more resonance and this can negatively affect the quality of sound.
2- Due to how they isolate you from outside noise, it makes you more vulnerable to accidents.
- $19 – Koss UR-20
- $30 – Panasonic RP-HTX7 (Available in Black, Red, White, Pink and Green)
– I’ve been using these headphones for a few days and let me tell this: For $30, they are a steal. They sound more like $60-$80 headphones in my opinion. Best of all? You have five colors to pick from!
- $47 – Audio-Technica ATH-M30
- $91 – Shure SRH440
- $127 – Audio Technica ATH-A700
– Usually $150+, currently at a great price.
- $155 – Audio Technica ATH-M50S (Straight Cable)
– There’s also the $159 – Audio-Technica ATH-M50 (Coiled Cable)
, non-S version, which comes with a coiled cable. I personally ordered myself a pair of the ATH-M50 a few months ago and I love them, they sound better than any other ~$100 headphones that I tried before and isolate fairly well from the outside noise. They are tight at first, so you need to “flex” them a bit. Of course, as in with any good pair of headphones/earphones/speakers, having a good source of source makes all the difference in the world. I use them on the laptop with an ASUS Xonar U3 and they are a great combo.
- $189 – Sennheiser HD25-1 II
In-Ear Headphones:
Simply put, these are headphones that you insert straight into your ear, to create a seal between the headphones and your ears.
Important: Make sure to take your time to properly test the different size of included tips, to find the ones that best fit your ears. This will make all the difference between a poor sounding pair and a good sounding one.
Microphone:
If you want a dedicated microphone, to talk to your teammates online or for any other purpose, I recommend the $20 – Logitech USB Microphone
) . I’ve been using that very microphone for years now and I have nothing to say against it.
Personally, I recommend going for a pair of headphone with this dedicated microphone versus going with a headset that has a microphone, for two reasons:
1- The sound quality is on average superior with a dedicated pair of headphones and a dedicated microphone vs a headset at comparable price points.
2- If the microphone on the headset breaks down (and they do more often than not…), you’ll be stuck without your headset if you get it replaced, or either getting a new headset ($$) or a separated microphone. If either the headphones or the microphone breaks down, you still have the other that you don’t have to replace.
Headsets:
Headsets are basically headphones with an integrated microphone.
If you go with an headset, make sure to check them all out, since they vary considerably in design.
- $15 – Yapster TM-YP100A
- $25 – Koss SB-45
- $35 – Corsair Vengeance 1100
- $49 – Sennheiser PC 151
- $51 – Razer Moray Plus
- $50 – ARCTIC Sound P531
- $87 – SteelSeries Siberia V2
- $102 – Logitech G35
- $124 – ASUS Vulcan ANC
- $110 – Creative Sound Blaster Tactic 3D Wrath Wireless
- $120 – Logitech G930
Network:
Ethernet RJ-45 10/100/1000 Mbps LAN: Integrated on the motherboard
Integrated with the motherboard, this network adapter will allow you to access your local network and Internet, using a standard LAN cable.
If a LAN network is not an option or if a wireless network is preferable for you, know this before you use wireless for a Gaming PC:
The problem with wireless is that:
- It’s not as reliable as LAN, with signals dropping out, interference and the like.
- It induces additional latency compared to LAN, which is the last thing that you want when you’re playing online, especially with first-person shooters.
In short, for reliability and getting a low ping, LAN is simply superior (and cheaper!).
If you understand that and still want to go with wireless, here my recommendations:
1- If you want a fast adapter without spending a fortune, I’d consider the $20- Rosewill RNX-N180UBE Wireless USB 2.0 Dongle 802.11b/g/n w/ 5 dBi Antenna, which connects in a USB 2.0 port. It comes with a base, so that you can move it away from the PC for better reception and a 5dBi external antenna to improve reception further more. It support 802.11b/g/n, with transfer rates up to 300Mbps.
2- The best solution is the $48 – TRENDnet TEW-684UB Dual Band 802.11b/g/n 450Mbps USB2.0
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Recommended operating systems:
The operating system cost, if there’s one, is not included in the total cost. The two reason for this are:
- The budget only considers hardware.
- You may be able re-use a previous license, get a student/corporate discount or go with an open-source OS such as Linux.
If you decide that you need an OS, here are some recommendations:
Windows 7
Despite Linux gaining more and more support, Windows still is the platform of choice for compatibility at the moment. Considering that you’ll have 4GB of RAM or more, along with a dedicated video that also has memory (512MB or 1GB), you’ll need a 64-bit version, as 32-bit is limited to 4GB of memory for the entire system, which is not enough now, nor in the future if you decide to upgrade.
Windows 7 is by far better than Windows Vista, looks better, more functional, less annoying, consumes less resources and brings DirectX 11 to the table.
Three Available Versions:
- Windows 7 Home Premium: The basic edition, with all the looks, most of the functionality and DirectX 11.
- Windows 7 Professional: If you want the virtual XP mode, you’ll need at least the Professional edition. Also required if you want to backup to a network, using the built-in backup mode in Windows. Also good to know: You’ll need at least the pro version to take advantage of Remote Desktop Connection.
- Windows 7 Ultimate: To help protect data on your PC and portable storage devices against loss or theft with BitLocker and to work and switch between 35 languages.
OEM vs Retail:
The OEM version allows you to only install it once on a computer. You cannot transfer the license to another computer in the future and you do not receive support from Microsoft. It’s the same type of license you get when you get Windows on a desktop or laptop that you buy from Dell, HP and such. It’s less expensive, but gives less flexibility. Ideal if you intend on keeping your computer for many years.
The Retail version is the full version, which allows you to transfer the license to another computer in the future and you can call Microsoft if you need any form of support. Ideal if you intend on upgrading/changing your computer down the road.
Other than that, you get the same features on both, only the license differs. The price between the two differs obviously.
OEM Versions:
- Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit OEM SP1
– $99
- Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit OEM SP1
- Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit OEM SP1
Retail Versions:
- Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Retail
– $177
- Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Retail
– $247
- Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate Retail
– $272
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Linux
A lot of people these days boot more than one OS. Linux is a wonderful choice: powerful, cool, and cheap. Take your pick of distribution and have fun! For Fedora, Ubuntu, Debian, Slackware, and Mandriva, try Distrowatch.com, Cheapbytes.com, LinuxQuestions.org or one of the many others.
While Linux does not offer the wide compatibility of Windows with video games, gaming on Linux is still possible, through projects such as Wine, Cedega and Crossover. For more on the topic of Linux Gaming, I invite you to read this excellent article from AnandTech: Linux Gaming: Are we there yet?
What about Word processing, Excel and other Windows-based programs that you need? Linux, being an open platform, has many free alternatives for you. For Word/Excel and such, try LibreOffice.
Cost: Free
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Conclusion
What do you think of the latest version of the Mainstream Gaming PCs? Let me know if you have any suggestion to improve this article or your opinion on it by leaving a comment below. Additionally, if a part goes out of stock, let me know.
Don’t agree with my choices? Have a better idea?
Feel free to leave a comment. There’s always place for improvement and after some research I may change the part according to your suggestion.
Building this PC?
I often get questions such as:
- Who are you to tell me which parts to choose?
- Can you suggest me a step by step guide to build a computer?
- Why should I build a PC instead of buying one in a store?
- And many more…
1. You will find the answers to all of these questions and more in this article: FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer
2. Is this your first build? Here are 10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders to get you started.
3. Newly built computer won’t start? I invite you to read Help me: Why won’t my newly assembled PC start or boot?
4. Visit our forums here, where you can join our helpful community and ask questions.
Recommended step-by-step guides to build your PC:
Newegg TV has three great videos on how to build your PC. The first covers choosing your parts, which we help you with in this article, so I chose not to include it. The second one, below, shows you in detail how to assemble your PC. The 3rd one shows you how to install Windows and software.
If you prefer a text version with pictures, here are two great guides by ArsTechnica, the first one covering the assembling and the second one covering Windows and software:
- Arstechnica Outstanding Guide for Hardware (Building the PC)
- Arstechnica Outstanding Guide for Software (EFI/BIOS, Windows, etc.)
Free Assistance
If you have any question(s) about the build, simply head over to the forums and our community will be there to assist you.
No worries, there are no stupid questions here on Hardware Revolution. We all started from scratch and learned through our mistakes. We”ll just help you make sure to avoid those mistakes
If you want to have your final build double-checked and get my opinion on it before ordering, or for anything else, don’t be shy, just post a thread on the forums.
Build your Gaming PC today!
Why should you?
For the same price, you’ll get more performance out of your custom PC, or you’ll save money while getting the same performance compared to a retail PC. Not to mention that retail PCs come with tons of bloatware and limited warranties. Why settle for less?Stop relying on HP, Dell and other companies:
Build your own custom PC today. It’s easier than you think!This Build includes all the parts/cables that you need and it was double-checked to ensure compatibility. Simply order your parts, set aside some time, grab a screwdriver and build your own personal PC. No worries, we’ll (the HR community) be there to assist you if you have questions or need help.
Then you’ll be able to say, “See that computer over there? Yeah, I built that.” Talk about being proud of a job well done.
Want or need a less expensive or a more powerful Gaming PC? No problem.
If you’re looking for a Gaming PC that’s less expensive and that can handle older video games or newer video games at a lower resolution/lower settings, head over to our Budget Gaming PCs article.
If you’re looking for a Gaming PC that can handle all of the latest video games maxed out at a 1080p (1920 x 1080) on a 120Hz monitor or to play video games on a multiple monitor setup or to play games in 3D, head over to our High-End Gaming PCs article.
Want or need a Gaming PC in a much smaller case? No problem.
Tier 4 or Tier 5 of the Mainstream HTPCs/SFF Gaming PCs are Gaming PCs that come in a much smaller Mini-ITX case.
Performance wise, Tier 4 of the Mainstream HTPCs/SFF Gaming PCs is equivalent to Tier 1 of the Budget Gaming PCs, while Tier 5 of the Mainstream HTPCs/SFF Gaming PCs is equivalent to Tier 2 of the Budget Gaming PCs.
Do note that they both come with a SSD (Solid State Drive), meaning that they boot and launch games/applications much more quickly than the equivalent Budget Gaming PC.
If you want more power, check out the High-End HTPCs/SFF Gaming PC, which, at its stock settings, offers performance equivalent to somewhere in between of Tier 6 and Tier 7 of the Gaming PCs, while still being in a case that is more compact than the usual Gaming PC case.
However, thanks to its outstanding pre-assembled, all-in-one liquid-cooling, it can be overclocked to offer even more performance, without sacrificing reliability nor noisy.
All of those builds being HTPCs (Home Theater PCs) as well, you can rest assured that they are very quiet too.
Note that the HTPCs/SFF Gaming PCs will be updated soon enough.
Click here to go back up to parts summary
Category: Gaming PC
