Hardware Revolution’s $1000 Gaming Build Version 2.0
Last week, I started to update our Gaming PC Builds Designs, with the $400 Gaming Build, the $500 Gaming Build, the $600 Gaming Build and finally, the $700 Gaming Build.
This week, I updated the $850 Gaming Build and today I’ll be updating the $1000 Build. I’ll keep going at this for the next days/weeks, as I update all/add Gaming PC Builds. Needless to say, if you haven’t done so already, make sure to subscribe for free via RSS or E-mail to not miss the future posts.
If the fact that you’ll be receiving outstanding custom Gaming PC designs for free is not enough to convince you, here are 7 Reasons to Subscribe.
About the $1000 Gaming Build:
What does this $1000 Gaming PC offer?
- Solid performance: It will handle gaming, with modern titles, with high details, AA and AF, at a resolution up to 1920 x 1080 (1080p – Up to 22-25″ monitor)
- Quality and looks: An Antec Nine Hundred Two case, offer a look that you can be proud of, and cooling that will keep your system cool and reliable, even after hours upon hours of gaming. The power supply is a solid Antec 550W with 32A on the 12V lines to handle the whole system without a problem.
- Easily upgradeable in the future, with:
- PCI-Express 2.0 slot for the video card.
- DDR3 RAM.
- USB 3.0
- SATA 6Gb/s
What’s new in version (2.0) of the $1000 Gaming Build compared to the previous version?
This version makes a switch from an AMD Phenom II 925 processor to the much more powerful Intel Core i5-750. This version also has a motherboard that supports USB 3.0/SATA 6Gb/s unlike the previous version of this build. We also move on from the Antec Nine Hundred to its improved version, the Antec Nine Hundred Two.
Computer Builds FAQs:
I often get questions such as:
- Who are you to tell me which parts to choose?
- Can you suggest me a step by step guide to build a computer?
- Why should I build a PC instead of buying one in a store?
- And many more…
You will find the answers to all of these questions and more in this article: FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer
Also, if this is your first build, here are 10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders to get you started.
$1000 Gaming computer hardware parts recommendations, short version:
- In Bold, you’ll find my recommendations, with a price that fits the overall budget.
- In Italic, you’ll find the best possible upgrades, that is the parts that offers the best bang for your buck.
- In simple terms, if you want a more powerful CPU or video card, pick it from the list of recommended upgrades that are in Italic.
- All upgrades are compatible with the rest of the system, as well as other upgrades, meaning that you can choose one or many upgrades without a problem.
- If upgrades just don’t cut it, visit the Gaming PCs page, where you’ll find our other gaming computer custom build designs.
Is this the right type of PC for me?
If you’re looking for a PC to play video games, you’re at the right place. If this is not what you’re looking for, check out our other Computer Systems instead.
About Gaming PCs:
Gaming Computers are all about playing video games. Every year, new video games that pushes the boundaries of visual effects are released and demand more and more power from your computer to run.
This is why our Gaming Builds Designs focus both on current performance for today’s games, as well as being ready to upgrade, to be ready to handle future games. For Gaming Builds Designs, the majority of the budget goes to the Video Card and the Processor to ensure high performance in video games, as well as a solid power supply with a case with good cooling abilities, to ensure reliability.
Upgrades will usually focus on the processor and video card for enhanced performance, as well as on the power supply and cooling, to enhance overclocking capabilities. You may choose to upgrade the hard drive for more capacity, or change the case to get one that matches your personal preferences, such as look, cooling, size, etc.
$1000 Gaming Computer Hardware parts recommendations, detailed version:
Motherboard:
GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0
A nice, solid motherboard, that is a full sized ATX motherboard based on the Intel P55 chipset. This is an edition that includes two USB 3.0 ports as well as two SATA 6GB/s ports.
Other than that, it features:
- Eight USB 2.0 ports, one PS/2, LAN, 8 channels HD audio and 1 x Optical, 1 x Coaxial S/PDIF outputs.
- One PCI-Express 16X 2.0 (16x), One PCI-Express 1.0 (4x), two PCI-Express 1X and three PCI slots, six SATA 3.0 Gb/s ports and the usual IDE port, etc.
The AM3 socket, DDR3 RAM support, USB 3.0, SATA 6Gb/s ports and the PCI-Express 2.0 slot will make it last and be ready to upgrade in the future if you want to.
This board pretty much has everything that you could need, unless you want Crossfire of course. If that’s the case, check out the upgrades below:
Recommended upgrades:
- ASUS P7P55D PRO: LGA1156 Intel P55 ATX Crossfire 8x/8x
– This is the next step up, as it supports Crossfire with two Radeon cards. However, no USB 3.0 nor SATA 6GB/s here, see the next upgrade for that.
- ASUS P7P55D-E Pro 1156 P55 SATA6Gb/s USB3.0 Crossfire8x/8x
This has it all. Crossfire support AND USB 3.0 along with SATA 6Gb/s support. This is the motherboard to get if you want to be as future-proof as possible.
CPU:
Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz Quad-Core 8MB L3 LGA1156 95W
The other contenders in the same price range would have been the AMD Phenom II X4 965BE. I picked the Intel Core i5 750 over it simply because it outperforms it when it comes to gaming, according to AnandTech
Recommended upgrades:
- Intel Core i7-860 Lynnfield 2.8GHz Quad-Core + HT 8MB L3 LGA1156 95W
While it’s 133MHz faster, the Core i7-860 is very similar to the Core i5 750, except for a single reason that explains why it’s a Core i7 and not a Core i5: Hyper-Threading. That features allows a core to handle up to two threads at the same time, hence why the Core i7-860 is a very worthwhile upgrade if you do video conversion or other highly multithreaded work.
Video Card:
Radeon HD 5850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 DirectX 11
The Radeon HD 5850 is AMD’s second fastest single-GPU video card, second only to the Radeon HD 5870 (which is available as an upgrade).
The Radeon 5850 supports DirectX 11 and it is perfect for gaming at 1920 x 1080 (1080p), with high details, AA and AF. It also has a 1GB of memory buffer, to handle games such as GTA: 4.
Finally, it is HDCP Ready and will handle Blu-Ray and other 1080p content playback, with audio over HDMI as well, with most audio setup (2.1, 5.1, 7.1, etc.).
VS Nvidia video card:
The main competition from Nvidia at this price range is the Geforce GTX 285. Unfortunately for Nvidia, the Geforce GTX 285 gets outperformed by the Radeon HD 5850 in pretty much every game/benchmark, hence why I don’t recommend it.
As Ryan Smith from AnandTech puts it: “The 5850 is anywhere between 9% and 16% faster depending on the resolution, cheaper (…), and features DirectX11. The 5850 is a card that manages to – if at times barely – outclass the GTX285 in performance.”
Recommended upgrades:
Note that the Crossfire upgrade requires a Crossfire compatible motherboard.
- Two Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 DirectX 11
in Crossfire. On paper, two Radeon HD 5770 are very similar to a Radeon HD 5870. Performance wise, it varies depending on Crossfire scaling. In the worst case, it will slightly behind the Radeon 5850, on average between the 5850 and the 5870 and in same cases, ahead of the Radeon HD 5870. Best of all, the price part: Two Radeon 5770 will cost you $330, while the Radeon 5870 is $400.
- Radeon HD 5870 (Cypress XT) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 DirectX 11
If you want the best of the best single-GPU video card, this is it. Capable of handling 1920 x 1080 gaming with ease, even 2560 x 1600 depending on the games. So powerful that it nearly matches the performance of the dual-gpu Geforce GTX 295 video card, while using way less power and not being affected by SLI/Crossfire scaling or micro-shuttering issues common to dual-gpu/cards setups.
RAM:
G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 1.5V DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel
4GB of RAM is pretty much mandatory to handle the latest video games along with Windows and background background such as your anti-virus, web broswer, music/video player, etc.
Considering the price of RAM these days and the ever-expending memory use of games and programs, 4GB of high-speed DDR3 memory is a no-brainer.
I went with G.Skill for their high reliability and compatibility with the majority of motherboards. I chose these particular sticks as they only require the standard 1.5V to run at 1600MHz, resulting in lower power consumption, but more importantly, because they are user-friendly as they don’t require to increase the voltage for stock settings.
In my opinion, there is little incentive to move to faster frequency RAM, as it brings only a small performance increase (According to Tom’s Hardware ) for a much higher price. DDR3 1600MHz is the sweet spot, costing about the same as lower speed, offering good performance and overclocking headroom.
Note that the RAM will most likely not run at 1600MHz to begin with. This is normal, you need to adjust your BIOS settings to reach that speed.
Hard Drive:
Western Digital Caviar Black 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s
I went with Western Digital because their hard drive offers the highest reliability in my experience, being less prone to failure on average.
This drive offers 750GB of storage, plenty enough to handle your video/music collection and all your games. This drive is from the Black series from Western Digital, their best and fastest hard drive series with more cache (32MB) and a 5 years warranty instead of 3.
Recommended upgrades:
- W.D. Caviar Black 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s
– ($100) For an extra $20, you get an extra 250GB.
Optical Drive:
LITE-ON Black 24X SATA CD/DVD Burner
This drive is able to read and burn CDs and DVDs. Silent, compatible with all major formats including DVD-RAM.
The motherboard includes two SATA cables (One will be used for the hard drive and one for this DVD Burner), so no need to worry about cables.
Also, seeing as DVD Burners are often go out of stock lately, here are a two alternatives that you can use to replace it. All are SATA based.
Case:
Antec Nine Hundred Two – 3x 120mm 1x 200mm fans
Following the massive sucess of the Nine Hundred, Antec brought out the Nine Hundred Two, an improved version. Offering nothing short of three 120mm fans (Two in front, one in the back) as well as a massive 200m fan on top
Recommended upgrades:
COOLER MASTER HAF 922 – 1x 120mm 2x 200mm fans – ($100) If you’re looking for a different look, or simply hate blue LEDs, have a look at Cooler Master HAF 922. It offers one 120mm fan as well as two massive 200m fans.
Power Supply:
Antec 550W Modular Active PFC
This power supply is capable of delivering up to 550W, not that should rely on this information only as I often point in posts such as Warning: 6 Surefire Ways of Blowing Up Your Computer Due to an Inadequate Power Supply, but more importantly 32A on the 12V line, the most important factor when it comes to choosing a power supply for a gaming computer.
One thing that I like about this power supply is that it’s modular, meaning that you only plug in the cables that you need, making for less of a mess in your case and a much easier cable management.
Power Consumption:
According to the eXtreme Power Supply Calculator, it is estimated that this system will consume at load (peak usage):
- 322W with the recommended Core i5 750 and the Radeon 5850
- 354W with the Intel Core i5 750 and two Radeon 5770 in Crossfire.
- 356W with the Intel Core i5 750 and the Radeon 5870. This is the worst case scenario.
This goes to prove how efficient these new Radeon 57xx and 58xx cards are, especially compared to the older Radeon 48xx series.
The power supply will have no problem handling the default setup and any upgrades, including the two Radeon 5770 in Crossfire. However, if you intend on overclocking or if you get a single Radeon 5850/5870 and may consider to add a second one in the future, you’re better off getting the power supply upgrade now than buying the less powerful one today and having to upgrade the power supply in the future.
If you choose to get two video cards for a Crossfire setup, remember that you need to upgrade to a Crossfire Certified Motherboard .
Upgrades:
CORSAIR 650W CrossFire/80 PLUS Certified- Corsair power supplies are known for being some of the most reliable in the industry. With nothing short of 52A available on a single 12V rail, 80 PLUS certification, as well as 2 x 6+2-Pin PCI-Express power connectors, this power supply is ready to handle any upgrades in this build, as well as some overclocking.
Cooling: Stock cooling
To save on costs, I recommend using the cooler included with the CPU. While there are better coolers, the one that is included is good enough to handle the cpu under normal operation. The case includes cooling fans as well to help you keep your system cool.
However, there are two reasons why you may choose to upgrade your cooling system:
- To keep your computer components cooler, which in return extend their lifespan and allows you to overclock to higher speed.
- To keep your system silent, as the stock cooling can get noisy at times, especially during prolonged gaming sessions.
Alternatives:
- Cpu Cooler: If you have any intention of overclocking, I cannot stress enough the importance of a good cooler.The ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 92mm CPU Cooler
offers the best value regarding performance for the price.
- Thermal Compound: Use the ARCTIC COOLING MX-2 Thermal Compound
either with the stock cooler or better, with the upgraded CPU cooler to lower your CPU temperatures further more. For $8, this is a wise investment.
- Case cooling: You can add up at least one additional 120 mm fans in any of the case and I highly recommend that you add one on the side, to help keep your video card cool, but the best is to get two. If you’re on a tight budget and don’t mind a bit of noise at 29.3 dBA, the Rosewill 120mm Case Fan
is a good choice. Go for the Scythe 120mm “Slipstream” Case Fan
if you’re looking for a higher-quality, more silent fan. This particular model is relatively silent at only 24dBA.
Sound Card: 8 channels sound card: Integrated on the motherboard
Integrated with the motherboard, this sound card will handle many different sound setups, including headphones, a microphone and more. While integrated audio on a PC used to be absolutely horrible, it has gotten much better in the last few years, thus why I have no trouble recommending it.
Network: Ethernet RJ-45 10/100/1000 Mbps LAN: Integrated on the motherboard
Integrated with the motherboard, this network adapter will allow you to access your local network and Internet.
Recommended operating systems:
The operating system cost, if there’s one, is not included in the total cost. The two reason for this are:
- The budget only considers hardware.
- You may be able re-use a previous license, go with an open-source OS such as Linux or , if you’re so inclined and are aware of what you’re doing, use torrents.
If you decide that you need a need OS, here are some recommendations:
Windows 7
Despite Linux gaining more and more support, Windows still is the platform of choice for compatibility at the moment. Considering that you’ll have 4GB of RAM or more, along with a dedicated video that also has memory (512MB or 1GB), you’ll need a 64-bit version, as 32-bit is limited to 4GB of memory for the entire system, which is not enough now, nor in the future if you decide to upgrade.
Windows 7 is by far better than Windows Vista, looks better, more functional, less annoying, consumes less resources and brings DirectX 11 to the table.
Three Available Versions:
- Windows 7 Home Premium: The basic edition, with all the looks, most of the functionality and DirectX 11.
- Windows 7 Professional: If you want the virtual XP mode, you’ll need at least the Professional edition. Also required if you want to backup to a network, using the built-in backup mode in Windows.
- Windows 7 Ultimate: To help protect data on your PC and portable storage devices against loss or theft with BitLocker and to work and switch between 35 languages.
OEM vs Retail:
The OEM version allows you to only install it once on a computer. You cannot transfer the license to another computer in the future and you do not receive support from Microsoft. It’s the same type of license you get when you get Windows on a desktop or laptop that you buy from Dell, HP and such. It’s less expensive, but gives less flexibility. Ideal if you intend on keeping your computer for many years.
The Retail version is the full version, which allows you to transfer the license to another computer in the future and you can call Microsoft if you need any form of support. Ideal if you intend on upgrading/changing your computer down the road.
Other than that, you get the same features on both, only the license differs. The price between the two differs obviously.
OEM Versions:
- Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit OEM
– $105
- Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit OEM
– $140
- Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit OEM
– $175
Retail Versions:
- Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Retail
– $184
- Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Retail
– $275
- Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate Retail
– $292
Linux
A lot of people these days boots more than one OS. Linux is a wonderful choice: powerful, cool, and cheap. Take your pick of distributions and have fun! For Fedora, Ubuntu, Debian, Slackware, and Mandrake, try Distrowatch.com, Cheapbytes.com, LinuxQuestions.org or one of the many others.
While Linux does not offer the wide compatibility of Windows with video games, gaming on Linux is still possible, through projects such as Wine, Cedega and Crossover. For more on the topic of Linux Gaming, I invite you to read this excellent article from AnandTech: Linux Gaming: Are we there yet?
What about Word processing, Excel and other Windows-based programs that you need? Linux being an open platform, there are many free alternatives that will answer your needs. For Word/Excel and such, try OpenOffice.
Cost: Free
Conclusion
What do you think of this version 2.0 of the $1000 Gaming PC?
What about the new Gaming PC layout?
Let me know what you think by leaving a comment below.
Building this system?
Do you need a guide on how to build a computer or do you have some questions?
Consult our: FAQ: How to Build Your Own Computer
Also, if this is your first build, here are 10 Quick Tips for 1st Time Builders to get you started.
Finally, if your newly built computer won’t start, I invite you to read Help me: Why won’t my newly assembled PC start or boot?
Don’t miss the new/updates to the Gaming PCs!
Make sure not to miss the next Gaming PC Builds that will be published in the next days/weeks by subscribe for free via RSS or E-mail. If the fact that you’ll be receiving outstanding custom Gaming PC designs for free is not enough to convince you, here are 7 Reasons to Subscribe.




